Sam Buchanan
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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan
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The one-wire alternator I have starts charging immediately after start. I agree that it is a reliable solution to keeping the battery fully charged in our old cars under all conditions. A hot battery and the proper cables solves a lot of starting issues! ?
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Excellent! The only reason for keeping a generator/regulator is for originality. Operationally, the alternator is superior in every way.
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In far less time that it would take to figure our how to redo an alternator, this reliable vendor can have an alternator that is ready to bolt to your car at your door in 3-4 days: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 I have had flawless service from the alternator I purchased from Howard. Notice their price includes shipping which is an extra $40 with some vendors. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tractor-car-6-volt-60-amp-1-wire-alternator-Positive-Ground-w-Bracket-pulley/333591006902?hash=item4dab92ceb6:g:Y~QAAMXQobdQ7d68
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Not every old Plymouth..... ?
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Why not just ditch the mechanical pump and run electric all the time? Having dual systems just complicates things. Most pumps can be wired for either ground system. Here is the full-time Carter pump I installed on my P-15, it is located just forward of the rear axle:
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Add an extension to the overflow tube so it will dump on the ground instead of the frame. Or just don’t overfill the radiator..... ?
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That car was owned by a bubba-sized driver at some time...... ?
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Once you get tired of messing around with the antique generator and regulator there is a simple and final solution. ? https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
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Good catch, now you know what needs to be done. Also looks like the head gasket allowed blow-through between cylinders one and two. Freshen up the valves, surface the head, install the new head gasket and hopefully your engine will be good for a long time.
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The education curve has been steep, only been working with them for a couple days. I'm coming in behind a mechanic who installed a rebuild kit but was sloppy with reassembly. They're behaving pretty nicely but don't return to idle quite as quickly as I like. Engine has been de-smogged...not sure how happy these carbs will be without all the plumbing.
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Yep, dealing with that right now with the newly acquired TR6 with CD 175 Strombergs.
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Shouldn't timing advance as rpm is increased?
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The tank on my '48 P15 is unvented and relies on the cap for venting.....I thought all Mopars of this vintage were the same. If unable to find a vented cap you can drill a very small hole in the filler neck under the cap. Here is one I drilled when I was initially troubleshooting fuel delivery problems, it makes a good backup in case the tiny vents in the cap plug up:
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The aftermarket sender in my new tank leaked fuel around the terminals which were loose. I also sealed the pulled rivets holding the sender together. No leaks since.
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1952 Dodge Cornet convertible, Six cyl flat - unable to start
Sam Buchanan replied to anils50's topic in P15-D24 Forum
6v fuel pressure gauges might be kinda rare....... -
Sometimes they just don't seal reliably (weak spring...worn seat?) and pressure/suction if present may be reduced or intermittent.
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I replaced all the brake and fuel hard lines in my P15 using already-flared lengths of line from the local auto parts stores. The lines are available in many different lengths, just use a coupler between lines to get the combination of lengths you need.
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The check valves can go bad.
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My guess would be that in the process of swapping ammeter wires you removed corrosion on the terminals that had been causing low voltage to the entire system.
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How do I tell which emissions my 1950 coronet has?
Sam Buchanan replied to Sniderman96's topic in P15-D24 Forum
The alternator, regardless of rating, will only supply whatever current is needed to keep the battery charged. Most likely the highest our cars will draw if the battery is healthy is less than 25-ish amps. That will be immediately after a start and the alternator will top up the battery in a minute or so. I have the 60 amp alternator (negative ground) and it works flawlessly. -
Yep, you need three cables, a fourth one for chassis ground is good, too. It is the second cable on the negative post in the photo below and is connected to the body. My BatteryCablesUSA set (my car is negative ground):
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Leave the fuel line disconnected from the carb and the end of it in a container. Remove the gas tank cap and push an air nozzle into the fuel filler and stuff a rag around it while you apple a few psi to the tank. This should push gas through the pump and prime the system. Hook everything back up and start the car. If no gas comes out of the fuel line at the carb while applying pressure to the tank, there is a blockage that must be addressed.
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Your charger doesn't care what the battery is connected to as long as red clip is on positive terminal of battery and black clip on negative. No need to disconnect the battery. Now......if you try red clip to positive terminal of battery and black clip to the car chassis........you might have an unhappy (shorted) charger.....or you might not. Many modern chargers have short circuit protection designed into the charger.
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How do I tell which emissions my 1950 coronet has?
Sam Buchanan replied to Sniderman96's topic in P15-D24 Forum
The ultimate (and easiest) solution: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-6-volt-100-amp-1-wire-alternator-Positive-Ground-w-Bracket-pulley/333630213024?hash=item4dade90ba0:g:FAgAAOSw1JVaHKCw -
I have no formal electronics training..........can somebody come swap out this battery for me??? ? Grumpy old men.......................
