Sam Buchanan

I can absolutely assure you the new paint processes are not cheaper!! The cost of modern, cross-linked auto finishes is staggering, often many hundreds of $$$'s per gallon when you include the necessary reducers and hardeners. Then you add several coats of extremely expensive clear. But the resulting finish is much more durable and flexible (and environmentally friendly) than the old systems such as lacquer and acrylic enamel. To call modern auto finishes "paint" is a misnomer, they should be regarded more as a plastic coating.

My response was in regard to the original post about painting floor pans. These are parts of the car that aren't visible once the vehicle is assembled and can accept finishes that you wouldn't apply to the exterior of a hood. One of the common treatments for floor pans is POR which is a relatively thick "paint" that is applied with a brush so the pans will have a durable, rust and chip resistant finish. Rustoleum and similar exterior paints are an inexpensive alternative to the higher-$$$ stuff like POR or multi-stage epoxy and well suited to our old buggies. https://por15.com/products/rust-preventive-coating

I've used Rustoleum and Tractor Supply's implement paint for rust "proofing" on many projects over the years. No paint will kill rust that isn't addressed but it can inhibit surface corrosion on clean surfaces. Two VW Beetle floor pans (inside and out) and running gear received the Rustoleum satin and gloss finishes and both have held up well for over twenty years. I usually use a brush because the paint can be applied thicker and the cost and mess is much less than spray cans. I've also bought quarts, thinned with mineral spirits and shot it with a spray gun when that was the best option.

My P15 had developed a habit of occasionally going dark between high-beam and low-beam switching which made me wonder if the switch was going to totally die soon. A really dark road and the proximity of deer meant the car was more likely to pull this little trick. I replaced the dimmer switch and now the lights are reliable. I was pleased to see Rock Auto carries the switch in the Standard brand which is usually a good bet for aftermarket. I had to replace the old bullet connectors on the harness with ring terminals but that was a minor blip to get a new switch. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=445771&cc=1486874&pt=4340&jsn=390

That's the tank in my P15, it fits and functions just fine. It doesn't have a pickup filter, I installed a filter in the fuel line just forward of the tank. My tank doesn't use the little brass ferrule from the old tank, it has NPT pipe threads.

Carefully check the junction between the intake and exhaust manifold at the heat riser. That gasket can go bad and the sealing surfaces can erode making sealing difficult. Be sure you use the procedure outlined in the service manual when you reassemble the manifolds.

There is no rational reason for having a plastic filter in proximity to the exhaust manifold. I don't even like having a metal filter in that location because it can absorb heat which is transferred to the fuel (vapor lock). There are locations that are much better suited for a filter.

I recently replaced the windshield in the '69 Beetle. A bottle of KY Lube from the local drug store turned out to be a superb windshield molding lube. It also triggered several off-topic comments from bystanders......

Ok. Here is the Summit Racing listing of electric fuel pumps (2000+ hits related to fuel pumps): https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=electric fuel pump Most of the pumps have fewer than ten reviews except the......wait for it.......Carter pumps, the most common which have hundreds of reviews averaging at least 4.5 stars. Here is the search return for just Carter pumps and related stuff: https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=carter electric fuel pump If you want to look elsewhere you might check into Bosch, AC Delco, Airtex and Walbro but I have no personal experience with them. I've run Carter rotary pumps on two vehicles over the past 15 years with no failures. But the one on the Plymouth might die tomorrow.....

83% four and five star reviews. Who you gonna believe?

Our small town has Lowes, Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, Fastenal, and a family-run auto parts store. I like Tractor Supply, especially for their hardware-by-the-pound and their work pants (wear them nearly every day). Life is good.

Best source of info is the manufacturer: https://carterengineered.com/electric-fuel-pump-p4594 According to their specs......diesel or gas.

Try McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/ You are going to have a beautiful car!

Same here. If you decide to delete the mechanical pump you might consider modifying the fuel line inside the engine compartment to get it away from the exhaust manifold. Here is how I ran the line across the upper firewall and over to the carb.

HEET is 99% iso-propyl alcohol and would most likely be useful only if using non-ethanol gasoline. If the tank has ethanol-laced gasoline in it, the ethanol is already absorbing moisture that is in the gas (that is why ethanol-contaminated gasoline is nasty stuff....corrosion city). The amount of ethanol in a few gallons of E10 is far more per volume than what is in the red plastic bottle. It does work well with gas-fired camp stoves, however. Update: Since last fall my TR6 has been stored in a temporary enclosed garage (Harbor Fright) and this spring it has presented a couple of yips which I have wondered might be due to water condensing in the tank because of the outdoor storage. Los Control got me thinking about this, so why not. I added the appropriate ratio of HEET to the tank just in case there was still some moisture in the tank. Yep, a sniff test confirmed HEET is good ol' alcohol (no taste test...). I figured it wouldn't hurt anything to add it since the tank already has E10 in it.

Just use a torch to get the plug red hot....that oughta bust the rust loose................. 😲 🤣

It will be interesting to see when you reassemble everything if that slight bend is there for a reason...................perhaps the release lever and pedal arm are slightly offset.......

Been a few years since I replaced the glass in my '48 P15 front door but I'm pretty sure I recall that piece slips off the stud. Most likely yours is rusted to the stud, may need some solvent and persuasion....maybe some heat?

True, or perhaps even better I could have not even participated in this thread.........................which I thought was about an electric fuel pump............

Yes, have used tinyURL many times through the years, just didn't take the time to use the third party app this instance. I knew the long link would work in my reply even though it was messy. But the info about tinyURL might be helpful for those who are not aware of the app.

With a socket extension, yes.

I don't know the specific number but the carb on my '48 P15 is perfectly happy with the pump with no need for a regulator or return line. The Carter pump is the full-time pump on my car, here is the mechanical pump: 😁

I've run the Carter P4259 6v rotary pump for the past four years and it has been flawless. Here are the specs from the Carter website: https://carterengineered.com/electric-fuel-pump-p4259 One source I found is Amazon (please excuse the long link), looks like Speedway and Summit Racing also have it. https://www.amazon.com/Carter-P4259-Line-Electric-Fuel/dp/B000CIS4IU/ref=asc_df_B000CIS4IU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312454010291&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9870229423753049456&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012692&hvtargid=pla-568638290350&psc=1&mcid=dc26961fd30a3fc2b585a1d550c924e2&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61179236814&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312454010291&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9870229423753049456&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012692&hvtargid=pla-568638290350&gclid=CjwKCAjw8diwBhAbEiwA7i_sJfAVg2MLX5clS4soqkFp44g4RQrvU99v7liFt0QOokgUYEUqfKTxnRoC1MUQAvD_BwE I mounted the pump just forward of the fuel tank and used rubber isolation to reduce noise, I no longer notice it running except when first turning on the key to prime the carb.

I didn't realize I had inserted a space.......my apologies, hope I didn't mess up too many folk's searches.............

I’ve always used: site: p15-24.com engine flush The “and”, “or”, or quotes probably refines the search but I’ve never had to use them.