Sam Buchanan

Well.....I was assuming we are using the correct wheel width and offsets. ? Depart from the norm and a lot of things will need to be modified.

Proper tire pressure is a function of the load each tire is supporting. I had a Lotus Seven semi-clone (StalkerV6) with 205/50-15 tires. The proper pressure for those tires considering the weight of the car (1500lbs) was 17 psi cold, any additional pressure would decrease the contact patch. My 2300lb TR6 with 205/70-15 tires runs 24 psi cold, and the 3200lb P15 with H78-15 bias ply tires works great with 27psi cold. One size does not fit all......... ?

With the fluctuating needle don't be surprised if the genny or reg is not long for this life................. ?

If you have a bit of electrical prowess you can charge devices with a 5v regulator. I've used the LM1086 regulator to power devices in the airplane and it works nicely if mounted on metal structure for heat sink purposes. Input voltage is anywhere between 2.6-30vdc. Here is one source, might as well get two or three of them since they are only $1.86 each: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/LM1086IT-50-NOPB?qs=X1J7HmVL2ZGlvf9ZmCkJfg%3D%3D&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp6aC77Tx6wIVEGyGCh1GIg2TEAQYASABEgJyqvD_BwE Here is the datasheet.

Stating the obvious, but there is a problem with the charging system. You might start with confirming solid connections at all points in the charging system wiring, especially grounds. If that looks good, you are down to dealing with a faulty generator, regulator or ammeter. Checking the battery voltage with an analog meter while the engine is running will tell if the battery is being charged. A reading less than 7v indicates a weak or inop system. There is a great solution to charging problems but I've already expressed my opinion on that in several threads. ?

It is certainly your perogative to disagree...but you missed the point of my post (or maybe I didn't state it clearly). I'm not talking about a sudden illness or injury, but rather the loss of desire or will to pursue a hobby, in other words, the fire has gone out. My local airport has hangars full of aircraft abandoned by pilots who know they will never fly them again, many don't even want to fly again, the hangar doors haven't opened in years. But they can't pull the trigger to sell and their family will be left with a huge burden to unload something they know nothing about. We can be more considerate of our survivors by realizing when its time to let stuff go.

Yep, when we get to the age where our productivity is dropping off....if we haven't touched something in a year, we most likely never will.....time to get rid of it. It is a huge burden to leave this task to our kids....and their opinion of us will not be enhanced.......

Just needs to be strong enough to hold the seat latch in the locked position, not a lot of engineering here.

Yeah, I thought it was one of those deals like the bikers do when they meet someone.................

The round hole you see above the sender is for an access cover that can be removed from within the trunk, it is secured by small screws. It appears the cover is missing in your car and has been covered by the carpet. The access hole allows you to reconnect the sender wiring after you install the tank. Might as well go ahead and cut the carpet so you can access the hole. You can make a new cover for it our of thin sheet steel or aluminum.

Here is an article about the heat riser in the Technical section of our forum: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/heat_riser_adviser.html/

Give the return springs a hard look while you are at it.

They already have.....see post #2. ?

Two recent discussions: https://p15-d24.com/topic/53757-old-mopar-flat-head-engine-oil-additives-poll/ https://p15-d24.com/topic/53256-oil/

Sometimes we do things a bit out of order just for the sake of motivation......and that is ok.

The pulley has a journal that runs inside the seal. Leaking due to being 71 years old is probably correct, but I doubt the thinner oil is the problem. ?

Be prepared to order a Speedi sleeve if your damper has any wear on the journal. Part number 99218 was the correct sleeve for the 218 in my P15.

Ok...inquiring minds are pondering......if the above is valid why isn't this a common problem with our cars, many with worn difs, when they sit between weekend drives?

Tank came from Vans Auto: https://vansauto.com/product/41-48-dodge-plymouth-desoto-chrysler-6-cylinder-gas-tank/ I've seen listings for tanks for less $$$$'s, don't know if they are from the same manufacturer.

Checking wheel/tire clearance with the car jacked up may not reveal interference if it occurs with the springs loaded......

Just as a another datapoint, I bought my MIG at either Tractor Supply or one of the big box stores, can't recall which. It isn't a Lincoln or Miller and it is 110v because I wanted it to be able to use it outside the shop. It has an Argon tank and has delivered a lot of satisfactory welds over the years. The MIG is a great tool to have and you'll end up using it much more than you anticipate. Do whatever you must in order to have excellent near vision with the helmet....good welds are impossible if you can't see what's going on.

My replacement tank didn't use the ferrule, just had a standard 1/8" NPT thread.

Dad, your bragging is indeed justified. ?

Your '51 has more room to work with and probably a thicker/stronger pillar than my '48 with its suicide doors, . Really wish I could squeeze a retractor in there without impinging on the rear floor.

Thank you, I missed the context of the statement about the 1/4" bolts. I think a lot of our discussion about enhancing safety in these old cars is entirely speculative (and maybe futile?) since these structures weren't designed with safety in mind. Probably the most accurate prediction about a severe crash is that these cars will cave in like a Coke can with unfortunate outcomes for the occupants regardless of seatbelt design. The lap belts in my P15 are mostly a placebo since an F150 is barely going to slow down as it crushes the old Plymouth......