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Well, today WOULD have been the day we headed to Lodi.... (can you tell I’m bitter? ?) Instead we drove to a thimble of land we have in central Oregon not the same and we miss our friends!. Hope all that can make it, have an awesome time We will be thinking of you! B-n-J

I run a single weber 32/36 from langdons on my coupe and it runs great! Took a lot of trial and error to get it to run perfect but once I did it was a huge improvement over the rebuilt stock carter BB I had. I did end up going with larger jetting than what tom has in the carb out of the box. I run langdons exhaust headers and a pcv valve set up I put together. Without bigger idle jets, it ran too lean for me. Langdons instructions also says a fuel pressure regulator is not needed but my set up seems to run better with one set to about 4 psi. I have already put 32,000 miles on this setup in just 4 years. I drive this 30 miles to work and back 3-4 times a week on the freeway with stock 3.9 rear end.

Been loading up the bikes for my wife, son, and myself and going to the beach each evening. Amazing what you can fit in the trunk of a business coupe. In Tacoma, WA.

4-2-20: Me and my youngest right when I got home. Co-workers dared me to wear that shirt today. So I did, and we laughed our heads off ! ? Meadowbrook ran great.

Have been wanting to get my retro wheels pinstriped as the original 1939 Plymouth wheels were, fortunately have one original untouched wheel. Tried the tape, however didn't have much success. Located a local shop that does pinstriping, wheels came out great - see attached. Recommend Kerry Buckley Pinstriping to anyone in the central NJ. area. His # is 732-448-9668

Well tomorrow arrived. Mother nature had different plans in mind for me today.

I get about 12 - 13 mpg but im spinning at 3000 - 3300 rpms on the freeway cruising at 65 mph - 70 mph. She's thirsty at those rpms.

Here you go JSabah, just rotated them as described above. Great car by the way.

Those are at least 6 Hoffa trunks

Brent that's tumble weed in the background.............. where the heck are you and Julie? Eastern Ore?

Finished the drivers side today. Decided against moving the hose bracket and used a 17 inch brake hose. Front brake hose from a 1985 Oldsmobile Toronado or 1985 Cadillac Seville, I had remove the bracket and ran the hose between the king pin and the shock. I didn't have to enlarge the hole in the hose bracket, althought their was a little nub on the side of the hose end that I ground off. I used the clip that came with the hose on top of bracket and a wire tie under the bracket to hold it tight against the bracket. No problem with the stock wheel rubbing on the caliper, I wonder if that is an issue with certain brands of caliper.

Don't worry about checking. I think I'm going to get the exact same setup. 2dr is calling for 4101 but it looks like the difference is length. 4101 being 8-11.5 and 4102 being 10-13. Mine were 11 so I'll go with the cheaper 4102's anyhow. Had I not needed a new arm anyhow just 1/2" barrel adapters, grand total here is about $65-70

I believe they are 1/2", I'll try to remember to check tomorrow. The arms are refillable, but Anco's website is extremely less than useful. You'd think they'd show the refill part number in the listing.

These look great. I was going to use both the center hubcaps and trim rings on my ‘49 Plymouth so I thought I’d give it a go after buying a proper pin stripping brush. They did not come out as nice as yours, but not really bad enough where I feel I have to put the rings on to hide my work. Curious as to what it set you back...

Enough done to take her out for a little spin, come back refreshed and ready to finish up some details... Hopefully the Spring Fling local Mopar show will get rescheduled ps please feel free to explain how to rotate pics (they were not sideways on my phone)

When I put new arms and blades on my 51 I found out you have to use the Anco arms and wipers specified for the 51 at Rock Auto, I thought I could up size to 15" blades, but they will not attach to the arms and the arms that fit the 15" blades are too long to keep the blade on the glass all the time. Your setup looks similar to mine. Arms that worked for me ANCO 4102, being adjustable the length can be varied within a limited range Blades that worked with those arms ANCO 2012, these are 12" blades. 2015 was the 15" blades I tried.

4-2-20: Drove the Meadowbrook to work today. Kind of a crisp morning. Heater fan on low for 15 minutes, then fan off and kept a nice temperature inside. 65mph on I-90 as usual. Pic 1: at work 7:50am Pic 2: at new house dropping off garbage. The dump near me shut down if you can believe that. They should be essential.

The 4.89 would work well with an od trans that has a reduction around .7 or so giving a final around 3.2 or so. I make adapters for the TF if you want to use an A518. Gary

Just a comment from a bystander; in this forum some folks are from countries that the driver sits on the right side. Use careful terminology, for them the driver's side means their right, therefore right hand threads! BTW, along with Mopar, Studebaker use left-hand threads during similar years. I don't recall who else...... The logic of the right/left threads was that you tighten bolt on both sides by turning wrench toward the front of vehicle. To loosen bolts, turn wrench toward the rear.

Residual valves were phased out at some point when they started making rear wheel cylinders with internal expanders. The original purpose of the residual valve was to keep a bit of pressure on the wheel cylinder cups to prevent them from leaking and draining out your M/C over time. Some use the 2lb residual valve as a band aid to prevent spongy brakes on a disc equipped car when the M/C is below the floor. If your M/C is above the calipers you don't need them, if it's below you might. If your wheel cylinder's cups are all rubber you need the 10lb valve in the rear line. If the cups have a metal expansion ring molded in you probably don't, but having the valve won't hurt.

One more update. I received the door panels yesterday. All holes are cut beautifully. Very much worth the money.

Hello modracer. The company on eBay is collectorsautosupplyinc. All of there panels are made but R.E.M. remautoinc.com. Just got my kick panels delivered in red. Rear panels came last week and door panels have shipped. Check it out.

Big Man, I am indeed 'FedoraGent' of Fedora Lounge fame. Good to see you again old friend. It's been far too long. All I need are the parts and I know I can make it work. I have started a thread on "The Lounge" in the Golden Era. Take a look. FG.

Hello, Fedoragent. Would you happen to be the same "Fedoragent" on the Fedora Lounge board? If so, you may know me as "Big Man" from there. You will find that the folks here are the best to answer your questions. I started driving a '48 Plymouth just a little over a month ago and have had several questions answered quickly here. The folks here are a great resource, especially to a new owner/driver of an old car. I'm in almost the same boat as you with the e-brake. While all (as far as I can tell) of my parts are there, the brake will not hold. Fixing the e-brake will be my next "project".