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Polsonator2

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    41
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About Polsonator2

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle
  • Interests
    Old cars
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Lived in seattle area all my 39 years of life.
  • Occupation
    Managerial

Converted

  • Location
    Tacoma, WA
  • Interests
    Hot Rods

Recent Profile Visitors

770 profile views
  1. Here is the interior I stitched up for mine
  2. For my 32/36 weber, I just used the adapter that Langdons sells. I think its only like $17-20 bucks. It bolted right onto the stock intake manifold that held my 1 barrel carter carb. I had to do a little filing on the sides of the adapter so I could tighten the bolts down. As I mentioned in my prior post the power gain felt was a lot stronger than the stock carb. I think the smaller primary works better at acceleration up to 2500 - 3000 rpms, then the secondary opens up after that. I am of the opinion that 2 carbs is more cfm than a plymouth 6 needs but I have never drove one with 2 carbs so not sure how they perform on the street. Anyone on the forum with a stock 1 barrel able to keep up with modern street traffic from stop light to stop light and cruise at 65 - 70 with the stock rear end and no overdrive? Before I updated to the Weber I was always worried about keeping up with traffic or merging onto the freeway. I no longer have this issue.
  3. I also use a single 2 barrel weber 32/36 carb from langdons with his split headers and my '39 business coupe runs great! Cruise at 65 -70 on the freeway 30 miles each way to work with stock 3.9 rear end and the 3 speed tranny. Accelerates with regular traffic just fine, very responsive. Jets that came with it worked ok but I put in larger idle, primary, and secondary jets, which made a huge difference in response and power compared to the stock 1 barrel. Always starts warm or cold, uses manual choke. I have put on 30k miles with this set up in 4 years.
  4. Thanks Desoto! I bet my MC is probably having the same problem so i will definitely pull the MC first and rebuild it! I have no rebuild kit. There is a place not far from me (Hagens Auto in Puyallup WA) that specializes in rebuilding old brake components for vintage cars, especially cylinders. Was thinking of getting a full rebuilt one from them and giving mine as a core. Are the kits avail and are they easy to rebuild yourself? I am using DOT4 but I think it may be mixed with DOT3. Aren't these mix compatible?
  5. I was driving a couple blocks from my house this morning and my brakes all of a sudden went out on me (yikes!!). Pedal went to the floor and I was not able to build any pressure up. By miracle, I had fixed my e-brake just a couple weeks ago so was able to slow down and stop, then limp it a couple blocks home using the e-brake. I checked the master cylinder and it was full so no leaks of fluid. I could see the brake linkage working so am suspecting an internal master cylinder fail. Does anyone have any input on what may be going on? All brakes components were replaced a few years ago and car hasn't had any issues. Sometimes over the last couple years the pedal could seem spongy but always built pressure back up after pumping the brakes but having never drove a car with a single master cylinder with no power brakes I figured maybe this was normal.
  6. Merle, I can't even get the tach to work at all with the Pertronix. How do you have yours wired? When it was on points it worked fine. I tried wiring it every which way per some suggestions from the Pertronix Tech support but can't get it to work.
  7. I have a Westach 6 volt positive ground tach but am unable to get it to work with my pertronix unit. Not sure if others have figured this out but here was the thread that I mentioned this in and it seemed others had issues. If anyone figured this out please share. If I can't get it to work I would be willing to sell mine.
  8. I cruise my '39 business coupe on the local freeway at 60 -67 mph 30 miles a day each way to work. She has a 218, 3.9 stock rear end, and no OD. Have already put on 20k miles in 4 years. No issues at all and runs strong. Previous owner cruised it that fast when it had the stock 201, drove it from washington state over passes to wyoming in the 70s. I don't understand why people think they can't cruise faster than 50-55 (unless maybe an extremely tired engine).
  9. '39's all had square headlights from the factory. The round headlights were aftermarket conversions for when sealed beams became available the following year. Mine was one such conversion. It is actually more rare to find ones with the square original light setup.
  10. Here is an interesting article about the yellow metals issue: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj6oZib0MnjAhUnGTQIHdUiBsEQFjALegQICBAB&usg=AOvVaw1neW6ilOnAwS-CfNyPIeiR
  11. I experimented with all kinds of gear lube, from tractor supply's ford tractor transmission (sae 90) to royal purple 75w 90 and 75w 140. The one that works best for me is an sae 140 gl4 from oreilly. My synchros would grind occassionally with the royal purple if I shifted too fast from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd and the tractor supply ford transmission gear oil was so so. I also tried the oreilly 85w 140 but the sae 140 works way better. I can now shift as fast as I want with no issues and the synchros feel smooth. Shifting to 1st gear at a stop is smoother now too. My manual for my '39 says use sae 160 or sae 140 in my 3 speed. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/chemicals---fluids-16461/grease---lube-16582/gear-oil---additives-16905/gear-oil---140w-20063/754ba5cbea99
  12. I use my '39 coupe with a mildly hopped up 218 and stock 3.91 rear end to commute 30 miles each way of freeway driving 3 days a week to work. I also run a 170 degree thermostat, with average engine warmed up temp of 194. She never heats up even when going over mountain passes in warm weather. I cruise at 63 -67 mph and will go up to 70 - 72 to pass. Fastest i got her up to was 76, could probably could go more, however, with heavy traffic and my stock brakes it's not safe. In 3 years I have put over 20k miles on this engine. These things run strong and reliably if in good tune with bolt on hop ups.
  13. I also love my optima 6 volt battery. Had it for 3 years and starts up car almost instantly and has more cold cranking amps than a regular 6 volt battery too. Being a closed dry cell you never have any maintenance required either. Coupled with a 6 volt alternator I never have issues. Having a one wire alternator allows me to not need a voltage regulator either. My voltage regulator now is just used as a junction block. Mounted my battery inside a plastic marine battery box that fits in the stock location under my seat in my '39 coupe.
  14. For my '39 business coupe I just went to the hardware store and spent $20 bucks on black outdoor carpet and cut and fit to shape. I also bought some matching floor mats at Walmart, which set me back another $20.
  15. I drive my '39 business coupe everywhere. In 3 years I have already put 22k miles on it, mostly cruisin highways at 63 - 65 with my stock 3.9 rear end, 3 speed (no OD) and slightly hopped up 218. Just drove it 170 miles each way over mountain passes last weekend to go to a parade in Wenatchee WA. Also drive it 60 miles round trip on freeway to work all the time too. Would drive it every day if gas wasn't $3.49 a gallon here.. Here is a video of her crossing the Narrows Bridge in Tacoma, WA close to where I live:
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