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Polsonator2 last won the day on June 2

Polsonator2 had the most liked content!

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About Polsonator2

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Old cars
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Lived in seattle area all my 39 years of life.
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Tacoma, WA
  • Interests
    Hot Rods

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962 profile views
  1. I also got my leaf springs from ESPO Springs and Things about a year ago. I went with a 1" drop. Springs have been working great and no issues installing.
  2. Here is the latest update. After 4,342 miles after my shade tree rebuild I noticed that my oil pressure dropped again, down to 20 psi and would not climb. Was starting to show lower 20 psi at cruise but then would go back up shortly. Noticed glitter in my oil filter too, thought maybe leftover junk from the prior spun rod. Thought I could hear a sound that I thought might be a spun rod again, but it sounded more like dieseling sound. Took off oil pan today and checked all rod bearings and none were spun, which is good. Saw glitter around crank crevices. Checked all rod clearances and all were .002 except the #4 i spun before (now .003) and #5 needed a .001 undersized to get to .002 and I need another .001 undersized to get #2 to .0015 - .002. Noticed that my #4 rod bearing looked like it was pitted from most likely new debris. I will get a .003 undersize this time for #4. When I originally plastigauged my clearances I got .0015 on all but #4 at .002. when I checked them before they were probably closer to .002 than .0015 though, kind of in between. Upon inspecting my oil pan I found tons of glitter and then some thin long metal strips, which I think is what caused my new oil pressure loss after getting warm. Car has great oil pressure cold. I am thinking my oil pickup might have been clogging when warm hence lower oil pressure. Will check main bearings next but doubt they are spun as wouldn't that produce low rumbling knock noise? Will also check clearances again on mains whrn I inspect them. My question to the group is if anyone can identify what this debris was? I can't figure out what it was. Appears to be super thin strips, so most likely not rings. Doesn't look like bearing material from my new rod bearings either. Is it potentially more leftover rod bearing material from before? Looks almost like tin.. It is not magnetic.
  3. My 1939 plymouth speedometer shaft actually broke so I sent it out to an instrument shop here for repair. Mark of Clawson's Instruments did an awesome job explaining to me what was wrong and what he needed to do to fix. It as found that the only way to get a new shaft was to get another donor speedometer that had the same mechanisms. These speedometers are very particular in what manufacturer was used for certain years. 1939 happens to be one that is very particular. I found that the 1938 Dodge Motometer mechanism is practically the same as the 1939 Plymouth Motometer mechanism and he was able to use one I found cheap on ebay as a fix. I highly recommend his services if anyone needs to have their speedometer repaired. The price paid was also very reasonable. I supplied my own parts so it was just labor he charged and it ended up only being a couple hours of work. Cost me less than $200. The '38 Dodge speedometer cost me $50 and ebay. I actually got to go to his shop and watch him work on it, which was cool. He also remagnatised mine as that was needed due to the inaccuracies. https://markclawson.com/
  4. I put 32,000 miles driving speeds of 65-70 on the freeway with my 218 (is a 1950 block) and 3.9 rear end and no overdrive. I finally spun a rod bearing and have since semi rebuilt the engine and have put 2,500 miles on it already. I have no idea how many miles were already on the engine when I got it. Odometer read 22,000 miles when I bought it 4 years ago. Good compression and vacuum during those 32,000 miles. Cylinder bores had almost no wear and I was able to use new std pistons and rings. Ring grooves were worn wide so had to replace the pistons. Now I take it more easy and cruise 60-63 mph, no issues so far and runs strong. Oil pressure is a little lower then pre-rebuild but I went with larger bearing clearances: .002 mains and .0015 rods.
  5. I have been cruising mine at each monthly cruise they are doing in Downtown Enumclaw, WA. Hundreds of cars and people show up to watch everyone cruise down the main street through town. Here's some pics some bystanders took of me. I have also put on 2,500 miles on her since my rebuild a couple months ago.
  6. The pin on my brand new fuel pump failed as well
  7. I use this glass sediment type bowl with the langdon headers and have no issues on my '39 plymouth
  8. I use a manual choke with my langdons 32/36 weber. Works great! I was able to get more power out of mine by getting bigger primary and secondary main jets. Also I had to go with a really large idle jet to solve me lean issue on engine deceleration popping going down steep hills. Using Langdons dual headers with some blown out glasspacks I also have a pcv setup which also leans it out.
  9. Keith's videos are a huge help! It helped me rebuild my '39 tranny!
  10. I had to file down the sides of my adapter to get the nuts to turn on the bolts. Also had to cut the studs from the manifold down a little.
  11. I took a 5 qt empty plastic oil container and cut it in half, then filled it with fresh oil from another full 5 qt oil container to submerge the pump in. After that I packed the side with vaseline. Worked great and later I put the oil from my container in the car with a fresh oil change.
  12. So here is the update on my old gal. I decided if I have to take the whole engine out a sbc is going back in. I went ahead and used the old wet sandpaper and shoestring trick on my rod journal to polish it up up. I mic'd it all over and it turned out nice and round and within spec to use an undersize bearing. Put on an undersize bearing and got my clearance within factory spec. Replaced entire rod that was spun with new one. Replaced all pistons and rings, and wrist pin bushings in all rods. Replaced pistons because of excessive ring land wear. Some rings were broken too. Found minimal wear and cylinders where in spec for standard replacement pistons. Also replaced all other rod bearings with standard size bearings and replaced #3 main bearing with a standard. Plastigauged rod bearings at .0015 clearance. Plastigauged main bearings #2, #3 (replacement), #4 and all were at .002 clearance. #3 (original that was replaced) was the only one that was over .002. I read on here that there is mixed opinion on bearing clearance, with some opting for .002 and others tighter. Figured I will try it. Didnt check #1 main since I would have to have the timing cover off and all the things associated with taking the cover off. Cleaned up and de-carboned head and painted it. No burnt valves all seem to seat well. Decided to just clean them up and not do a full valve job. She now has 1,200 miles (and many oil changes and filters) since I did my shade tree rebuild. Oil consumption is now almost nothing and her new rings seem to be seating well. I think any oil dripped now is from timing cover. No knocking and oil pressure has been 40 - 45 lbs at 30 mph+. After a run at 60 mph she has about 38 - 40 lbs at 50+ miles an hour and 25 - 30 at 30 mph. After leaving the freeway and driving at lower speeds oil cools and she goes back up to 30 - 40 lbs at 30 mph and 40 lbs at 40+ mph. I am using 10w 40. Have tried 15w 40 and pressure is about the same. If she blows up again I may actually decide to keep her flatty and do a proper rebuild since I now have experience rebuilding her but who knows..May still go for more power.. For now she will not be run as hard as I used to run her. I know this isnt the proper way to do things but I am already happy I got 1200 miles out of her and she may or may not get many more. Some people on here are lucky to do 500 - 1,200 miles in a year.. Forensically, I found a piece of piston skirt in the oil pan. It is possible that tiny metal pieces from the skirt caused the failure in rod #4s journal. Piston #1 had the broken skirt. I still havent had a chance to check the clearance of my old oil pump to see if it was out of spec but hope to do that when I have time.
  13. Ken or Ulu, when pulling the whole engine, do i only have to unbolt the bellhousing from the back of the engine? Or does that and the tranny all come out as one unit? This is my first engine pull.
  14. My engine has always had some intermittent ticking noise too that I always attributed to either normal cold start piston slap or valves. When I get a chance I will check the inside wear clearance for the old pump
  15. Sure! That sounds great Keith! It's a bummer but I have got 34,000 miles of everyday driving out of her and who knows how many miles were on the engine before I got it. I always planned to do an eventual rebuild, just never had a reason to yet since she ran so well. Still makes me wonder why it had that one rod spun though. The bearing had some cracked corners that did fall out when I first opened it up. The #3 journal looked fine. Bit I have not seen any metallic flakes or anything in my oil. I have't looked at all the other bearings yet as I figured I will be rebuilding it all anyway. I will report back though how they look. As for the crankshaft, can that be removed with the block in the engine after the front fenders' radiator, etc are removed? The repair manual made it seem like it is possible. And does that damage look salvageable by a machine shop? It only has a slight ridge I can feel on one side. Lastly, what is a typical rebuild cost if I go with a shop? I may decide to farm this out if it is reasonable. Any idea on how many hours a good shop would spend on a rebuild? The one I am trying to get a hold of by me says they charge about $100 an hour plus parts. I am in Tacoma, WA.
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