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Polsonator2

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Polsonator2 last won the day on June 2

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About Polsonator2

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle
  • Interests
    Old cars
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Lived in seattle area all my 39 years of life.
  • Occupation
    Managerial

Converted

  • Location
    Tacoma, WA
  • Interests
    Hot Rods

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877 profile views
  1. So here is the update on my old gal. I decided if I have to take the whole engine out a sbc is going back in. I went ahead and used the old wet sandpaper and shoestring trick on my rod journal to polish it up up. I mic'd it all over and it turned out nice and round and within spec to use an undersize bearing. Put on an undersize bearing and got my clearance within factory spec. Replaced entire rod that was spun with new one. Replaced all pistons and rings, and wrist pin bushings in all rods. Replaced pistons because of excessive ring land wear. Some rings were broken too. Found minimal wear and cylinders where in spec for standard replacement pistons. Also replaced all other rod bearings with standard size bearings and replaced #3 main bearing with a standard. Plastigauged rod bearings at .0015 clearance. Plastigauged main bearings #2, #3 (replacement), #4 and all were at .002 clearance. #3 (original that was replaced) was the only one that was over .002. I read on here that there is mixed opinion on bearing clearance, with some opting for .002 and others tighter. Figured I will try it. Didnt check #1 main since I would have to have the timing cover off and all the things associated with taking the cover off. Cleaned up and de-carboned head and painted it. No burnt valves all seem to seat well. Decided to just clean them up and not do a full valve job. She now has 1,200 miles (and many oil changes and filters) since I did my shade tree rebuild. Oil consumption is now almost nothing and her new rings seem to be seating well. I think any oil dripped now is from timing cover. No knocking and oil pressure has been 40 - 45 lbs at 30 mph+. After a run at 60 mph she has about 38 - 40 lbs at 50+ miles an hour and 25 - 30 at 30 mph. After leaving the freeway and driving at lower speeds oil cools and she goes back up to 30 - 40 lbs at 30 mph and 40 lbs at 40+ mph. I am using 10w 40. Have tried 15w 40 and pressure is about the same. If she blows up again I may actually decide to keep her flatty and do a proper rebuild since I now have experience rebuilding her but who knows..May still go for more power.. For now she will not be run as hard as I used to run her. I know this isnt the proper way to do things but I am already happy I got 1200 miles out of her and she may or may not get many more. Some people on here are lucky to do 500 - 1,200 miles in a year.. Forensically, I found a piece of piston skirt in the oil pan. It is possible that tiny metal pieces from the skirt caused the failure in rod #4s journal. Piston #1 had the broken skirt. I still havent had a chance to check the clearance of my old oil pump to see if it was out of spec but hope to do that when I have time.
  2. Ken or Ulu, when pulling the whole engine, do i only have to unbolt the bellhousing from the back of the engine? Or does that and the tranny all come out as one unit? This is my first engine pull.
  3. My engine has always had some intermittent ticking noise too that I always attributed to either normal cold start piston slap or valves. When I get a chance I will check the inside wear clearance for the old pump
  4. Sure! That sounds great Keith! It's a bummer but I have got 34,000 miles of everyday driving out of her and who knows how many miles were on the engine before I got it. I always planned to do an eventual rebuild, just never had a reason to yet since she ran so well. Still makes me wonder why it had that one rod spun though. The bearing had some cracked corners that did fall out when I first opened it up. The #3 journal looked fine. Bit I have not seen any metallic flakes or anything in my oil. I have't looked at all the other bearings yet as I figured I will be rebuilding it all anyway. I will report back though how they look. As for the crankshaft, can that be removed with the block in the engine after the front fenders' radiator, etc are removed? The repair manual made it seem like it is possible. And does that damage look salvageable by a machine shop? It only has a slight ridge I can feel on one side. Lastly, what is a typical rebuild cost if I go with a shop? I may decide to farm this out if it is reasonable. Any idea on how many hours a good shop would spend on a rebuild? The one I am trying to get a hold of by me says they charge about $100 an hour plus parts. I am in Tacoma, WA.
  5. I got the rod up and the bad bearing halves removed. Here is the crank journal.
  6. I will report back to the group what the other rod caps look like. Now I am also curious on Keith's theory. And I wonder too if Ken has the double hole ones on his is this something I should be concerned about (mismatched rod caps)?
  7. I think most my oil consumption is pushed out through upper rear main seal and the front timing cover and not as much is burned. I consume/drip almost no oil when going 45 mph or less. Here are close ups of each side of the caps. #4 cap is right on 1st picture and left on 2nd picture.
  8. I will get some new pictures. Engine in my car is actually a 1950 218 and not a stock 201
  9. Keith, here are the caps with bearing removed from cap #3. #3 is still bottom of pic
  10. Any suggestions on what to use to turn the bearing inserts around and to get them out without scratching the journal? Also, does my #3 journal look ok?
  11. Never had a trail of blue smoke. Only smoke at intersection on take off occassionally or if I had an extreme rapid deceleration. No road draft tube, have pcv setup in place of road draft. It does suck a little oil.
  12. This is my first time ever dealing with engine bearings so appreciate everyone's help!
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