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50mech last won the day on July 23 2020

50mech had the most liked content!

About 50mech

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    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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    1950 Plymouth special deluxe


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    Anything building or fixing

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  1. Most likely the guage is bad. Charge side coil in it is bad or not getting a good connection.
  2. I think maybe you have shoes that are too tight on the anchor bolt somewhere. As well as a slightly tighter toe end in a shoe. Either in front or a front side rear shoe. The little bit of rust or whatever that happens after sitting makes the brake drag the drum , forward movement then actually pulls the shoe tighter until it's overcome. Check to make sure the shoes can pivot freely on the anchor bolts and that shoe adjustment isn't closer at the toe end of any shoes.
  3. I have a 20 yr old lincoln sp100, I use it mostly as mig with c25. One of the shops I work with has a HF titanium mig 140 which sells at about $400. I use it there mostly with .030 flux. I can't speak to durability but the HF vastly outperforms the lincoln even comparing flux to mig. Inverter welders are smoooooooth and nowhere near as sensitive to adjustments. So easy a caveman can do it.
  4. Idk. Id guess it more just dampens vibration than really balances. A lot of dirt track racers I grew up around did it. Not going to do anything for something far out of true though. If you have a minor weight imbalance the fluid in a round tube is going to spin out until it's evenly coating the inside. So if you have this imbalance of say some fraction of an ounce trying to work against this 32 ounce fluid mass that's evenly spread , your fractional ounce is working against quite a bit of force trying to deform the liquid in order to shake. It succeeds only marginally and the
  5. Well, very small vibration starts at about 72mph....can't even rule out tires as I wouldn't have likely noticed it before so...I'm happy. Just gonna drive her. With over 360k and being hit by lightning under it's belt I'm not expecting perfection out of it anyhow.
  6. I'd assume if the yoke is crooked it's going to swing the whole driveshaft and cause vibration. In any case I think I lucked out. I couldn't just swap the yoke since the two shafts bottleneck down to different diameters. So my splice is about 8" forward of the rear. I just used a 3' straight edge and made my initial 1/2" welds on each pass at 0,180,90,270 before making complete passes. Threw it in the van and off I went, convinced I'd probably need to just order a new one until I hit 65 a few times trouble free. Today is a rare freeway day to go see my lady so I'
  7. Much above 9:1 they quit breathing. So you can bore valve pockets into the head all day for clearance but then the motor can't breathe and you've added somewhat back to chamber volume. You might be able to relieve the block like they do on Ford flat 8s but that relief adds back to chamber volume and lowers the ratio again. So you've got a losing battle trying to raise it a whole lot. Recent rings and a good bore are in order.
  8. You can pick up a dummy load resistor at any autoparts store for LEDs if you don't want to wait. 6.5 ohms 50w They're overkill for this application but overkill is good.
  9. I was pretty much in the same school of thought as you guys with this. If I didn't know I did it I'd never notice. I guess I got lucky....? Considered oil filling or field balancing with hose clamps but without noticable vibration the latter couldn't be done anyhow.....I guess I'll leave it be. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to get a story back about one that ate rear end input bearings until it got balanced but never vibrated or something. On the plus side, the f150s u joint bearings are about 50 percent larger than the originals and probably close
  10. Here's a flasher internals. The p terminal lights your indicator, its the same for left,right,parking. The load ( turn signal) completes the circuit that runs the heater. The bimetal strip then moves toward making contact until it does, that shorts the heater out of the circuit and the bi metal cools, bends back and breaks contact. Since the p terminal is working for the other circuits it indicates the right hand turn signal is likely not giving full power to the heater so contact with the p terminal is never completed. A different flasher may solve the proble
  11. So my off topic Ford van broke the ears off the rear u joint on the driveshaft. The local pull a part had destroyed every one they had by forklifting the vehicles. A full service yard that thought they had one ended up not having it after waiting a day for it to get pulled. I didn't want to wait 5 days to get a new one. Anyway I took the end of one from a 97 f150 that had the proper end to bolt on my rear end, cut it and spliced it to my old one with a six inch section I reduced the diameter on to make an inner sleeve. Welded each end to the sleeve, then welded toget
  12. Same deal, just another indication that the right hand circuit has high resistance somewhere. With the park brake activating the flasher it's able to heat and switch all the way. So now the right signals don't have to draw the minimum current to properly operate the flasher correctly..there's already a device drawing it.
  13. Oh yeah, there's an off chance some barely making connection point could measure fine on resistance if it has to heat up to get resistive....if it all measures good but the problem persists , easiest to hook up test bulbs in test sockets to the signal output. Then you can isolate.
  14. This indicates a higher level of resistance in the right hand circuit which causes it to heat the flasher incompletely. Could be carbon on the switch contacts but I would think more likely a ground at one of the bulb housings or a crusty bayonet socket not making a good connection to the bulb. A poor connection here heats up the instant it's turned on and raises the resistance. I'd just measure with a meter the resistance from power into the switch to out on right and out on left with the signal switched on respectively and compare. Then power in to ground on each right hand signa
  15. It's not just something thought of, it's done on a daily basis. I'd suggest downloading the chassis PDF here. https://www.gmupfitter.com/pages/best-practice-manuals Extending wheelbase/frame splice procedure would apply to reinforcing or replacing just as well. I'd say your best options would be to either treat the rusted area as a single splice if it's concentrated enough or simply replace the section and treat it as per the chassis best practices. One note..pg6 line 10 on the right side they state figure 7 is acceptable and 8 is preferred. It is
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