Leaderboard

I stuffed the fill hole with a small towel, so my socket couldn't fall down.

I recommend using a magnetic socket on the fill plug. If you drop it it goes into the bell housing and it’s tons of fun to remove. Don’t ask how I know.

After being perched on the lift all winter, I've been waiting for the snow in front of my shop to melt enough to get my 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook out for a short cruise yesterday. It was the first time she's moved under her own power in forty-some years. And those forty-some years were really hard on her. She sat outside in a little village in the N Cascade mtns called Stehekin that is accessible only by boat and has only about one mile of road. The incredible snows caved in the roof and rotted and rusted out the interior. The plus side of that slumber and location is the motor only has 35k miles (where do you go with only 2 miles of road?) I un-stuck 5 valves and now the motor purrs (45 lbs oil pressure at idle). Rebuilt the transmission, added an overdrive, did a fluid-drive delete, installed a two-circuit brake master and all new brakes and nicop lines, new ebrake and cable, wheel bearing and seals, 12 V alternator, and electric fuel pump. Gutted the interior and put in a new headliner and door cards. Next up is new upholstery on the seats.

Hi all, Just found this forum from over at HAMB and this place is just what I need! I've got a 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook that I'm start to restore...well, maybe should say wake up first as it's been sitting for many years. I took the head off cause I had 3 valves stuck and wanted to check status of cylinders etc. All looks pretty good and I got the valves unstuck, so I'd like to put a fresh head gasket on and put her back together for a comp test and run. So regarding headbolts, can I reuse them or should I replace? And if I elect to replace, can I get away with grade 8s or do I need to go with ARPs? At this point I'm not wanting to put alot of money in it as I dont really even know what I've got here. I guess I'd just rather reuse, but I get nervous about them breaking ( especially after seeing the broke deadbolt pull here!) , tho I did get them all out just fine.

I used strips of cardboard to measure. Like the first pic. Then laid it flat and cut the rug. It is by no means perfect but it is light years better than it was.

Keep ironing out all the bugs Brad…. that never ends ? The book of Bunn suggested that the single spoke of the steering wheel went straight up to enable better sight of the gauges…. so yours is spot on ?

I had a dual fuel system install in 1980, long before that became common. Mine was the only one local installers had experienced. In '73-74 I did first heat pump and really liked it, but the electric backup/supplemental was expensive on really cold days. And, heat pumps were not as efficient below freezing as today's are. So, when I built the '80 I did heat pumps with propane aux heat. NG wasn't available at the time or I would have used it. Very happy with that set up. In my home today I have a high efficiency mini split in a room I added on. Works down to zero and very cheap to operate. Depending on the size and design of the home, mini splits can be a good solution.

Search for 'threaded shaft collar' at Mcmaster-Carr, or similar online store. You can use one of those in the right size to replace the nut on your tool. Or, modify your nut using that design as a guide. Drill and tap a setscrew hole and saw a split into the nut. But, it's kind of tricky to drill at an angle like that so close to the edge. If you have a welder or can braze one can add and 'ear' on the nut to use for the clamp. In any case, the result is a nut with no play in the threads once clamped.

Heat pumps are not the best value for primary heat as the effective range of heat transfer is such a small window. You will be needing aux heat to supplement this in your neck of the woods I assure you. Mostly this is resistive heat strips. These are not off the wall in cost, but costly to operate and well, all fuels are expensive these days. Not sure of availability of natural gas in you neck of the woods as you may well be outside the distribution piping but I prefer the all in one outdoor package where the noise of the fan is gone from the living area associated with the split system installs and the gas fired units are very clean in operation and normally maintenance free. IF you are rural and can get your aux heat in the manner of a hydronic heat system preferably wood fired and tied in with the all in one unit, this work so amazingly well, at least for me and I heat a modest sized home and can expand to four circulation systems all under individual control. Big push however to remove these wood fired units from use by certain groups of folks. You are wise to consider these upgrades when neither the heat or AC in in demand. I have run my 5 ton AC/heat pump in heat pump mode one time only in 6 years, I tested it when I did the initial install of the package unit. I did add the need circuits to allow the heater to take command of the indoor fan for circulation when call to heat by the second thermostat. The AC will still kick on when and if needed say we have a few days of good temps here in the south during winter. The AC thermostat stays wired active 365/24/7 and will override the heater if it is switched on....but that only has happened maybe twice. The hydronic unit in heat mode is full automatic in all manner with the exception of putting wood in the firebox, no automatic hopper or auger feed here, got to put logs in manually.

I looked under my 46 P15, and that's what I have, although I cannot remember if it has the inner core. When this subject came up in the past, i thought it did, but still couldn't say for sure. (I installed this back in 81 or so.) I tried to get a picture, but need more light under there.

There are several different styles of leather boots that I have seen. The fanciest one had an inner cone that snapped together and the outer portion overlap on the leather was held with some bend over metal tabs..

That isn't right. Assuming we are talking about along term 20A indication. More than a few minutes. Either that or you have some load wired on the battery side of the ammeter, which you should not.

150 is very good. Try setting the idle mixture screw with a vacuum gauge. Check for vacuum leaks with non chlorinated brake clean. Just hose it around suspected areas when running and see if the idle changes. Check that your vacuum advance is holding vacuum. To check your plug wires just run it at night, and mist the wires with water. If you see arching they are no good.

Be prepared to really take your time. You can't pour the fluid in very fast at all. I rigged up a small funnel that worked okay. Just keep bumping the starter, a tiny bit at a time, you'll find it. If you get it close enough to see you can use a big screwdriver or crow bar to move it a bit. Once you remove the fill screw, you can spin the rear output section by hand, slowly. There are one or two spots where an inner hole shows up. You can pour the fluid in without having it lined up inside but it's easier with the latter method. The regular hydraulic fluid mentioned above isn't perfect but it will work quite well.

This is the EXACT reason I called in my sister ,who is a tailor. She looked at my car and said "You want me to WHAT?" and drove off leaving me like, What?

Very difficult and slow to fill 3/8" coupling filler hole..

Welcome to the community! Remote diagnostics is fraught with peril but a couple of things come to mind when reading your post. One, try setting your timing to 10*BTDC at idle. I suspect you will have a smoother idle and our modern fuels should handle the advanced timing just fine. You may then be able to obtain a lower smooth idle speed. Second, perhaps you have an intake gasket leak that is making some cylinders run leaner than others which could also result in difficulties getting a smooth idle. Try advancing timing, setting idle speed down and adjusting the idle mixture screw to see if this helps.

Makes the most sense but I spun the engine with the key and I didn’t see any. I guess I have to bump it or bottom. Bottom line is I need two people thanks guys. D35 torpedo

Wood shampoos negated the need for the officer to transport all but the hard headedest people, then they called for the paddy wagon.

Certainly frustrating! Mopar ones can be a bear also if so inclined. One of the greatest automotive advances was when master cylinders were moved to car firewalls! Good luck with the project and keep us posted on your progress.

that was quick.....the sheriff office made contact with Arthur. He does not answer phone calls he does not recognize. He just called me back after sheriff told him it was I who was checking on him and we spoke for at length on the phone. He is doing well, focusing on getting his stuff moved forward to new owners and is now on the way to the grocery store. Hopefully he will be able to pop in on the forum and say hey....

Couldn't afford white letter tires when I was a teenager. So I went to the JC Whitney catalogue and ordered a white paint stick and filled in the letters on the black wall tires by hand. Looked OK driving down the road. Had to re do it about once a month but I had plenty of time and energy to do useless stuff like that back then. And they were cheap wide oval type tires.

I like to use a thread chaser to clean the bolt holes to the point where I can easily screw it in and out with my fingers. I think it helps with not braking the bolts when tightening the head.