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know this isnt a dodge but this is out the back side of my shop.

Take "artistic " pictures of an area of your shop. Remember "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" therefore there is no definable criteria .

let me know if you need anything. I've done a few of them

I had read somewhere that you can buy an old steering wheel, remove the center core, and modify that to be an adapter. I did that 4 years ago and it has worked well.

That is one hell of a big camper you have on the back of that Ford!!

You can have the same issues on a 12 volt system if you have bad connections. A bad connection won't carry enough current regardless of what voltage you have.

I was under the impression the adapters for Dodge vans from the 70's worked.

that question sparked my curiosity. I have different old adapters , spline to 3 bolt steering wheel. will see if any that I have fit my 41 ply and report back tomorrow. The adapters usually have a number stamped on them.

A 68 Dart would be perfect! More room than you think...its the body panels that are smaller not the interior so much. Plus it would fit in the semi...... 48D

Always enjoy a good build thread Casper50....thanks for making the effort! 48D

One more item now that you mentioned sooty plugs and the step up.jet. check the carb to manifold gasket. There needs to be a slot that aligns with a hole in the carb base. That hole is the vacuum passage to the step up piston. The default position of the piston is up pushed by the spring. High vacuum during idle or part throttle cruise pulls it down closing the jet. If it doesn't close you are getting an over rich mix. I have seen carb kits with replacement gaskets with no slot so no vacuum, cut with one slot so you need to assure the correct position during carb installation, and some cut with four slots so even fools like me have a chance of getting it right.. The purpose of that jet is to follow on, supplying a rich mixture after the initial squirt from the accelerator pump. It continues to richen the mix till the engine returns to high manifold vacuum condition. If it is hanging open, the accelerator pump may now be providing more fuel than needed hence the bog right after going to WOT. Don't know what scrap value is these days, but I'd be interested....

Wet plugs would indicate flooding. But sooty plugs can be a rich mixture. Switching to a hotter plug may help, unless Plymouthy's suggestion concerning point float is right. Which would suggest that there is nothing wrong with the carb, its just not getting fire at higher rpm's. So how do you check for point bounce or float? Heres a troubleshooting page from the B&B service manual that may help: (1) Black Smoke from exhaust pipe and sooty deposit on spark plugs caused by rich mixture. (a) High float level. Reset to specifications (tables IV to XI, pars. 28, 44, 61, 78, 95, 109, 124, and 140). (b) Too large metering jet or a too small metering rod. Check specifications (tables IV to VIII, pars. 28, 44, 61, 78, and 95). Replace jet or rod. (c) Nozzle installed without a nozzle gasket, when one is required. ( d) Metering iet or nozzle looae. Tighten jet or nozzle plug. (e) Pump relief port clogged. Clean port. (I) Air bleed hole (in air bleed nozzle) stopped up. Clean nozzle. (g) Hole in main vent tube clogged. Install new tube. (h) High fuel pump pressure. Repair or replace fuel pump. ( i) Metering rod spring not connected to metering rod. Connect spring. (j) Clogged air cleaner (outside vented carburetor).. Clean. air cleaner. (k) Warped bowl cover or damaged bowl cover gasket (inside vented carburetor). Replace bowl cover or gasket. (I) Vacuum pasaage to step-up piston clogged (B-B carbtur retora) . Clean passage. (m) Wrong flange gasket used (B-B carburetora). Refer to paragraph 113d (2) . (n) Flange gasket leaking allowing air to enter vacuum pasaage to step-up piston (B-B carburetor). Replace gasket. (o) Step-up piston stuck in cylinder due to gummy deposits (B-B carburetor). Clean piston and cylinder.· (p) Two gaskets used under step-up piston, keeping step-up rod from seating (B-B carburetors). Remove one gasket. (q) Stretched metering rod spring (Y-S carburetor). Replace sprng. (r) Worn or ruptured metering rod diaphragm (Y-S carbu,retor). Replace diaphragm. (s) Passage to vacumeter cylinder blocked (WOD carburetor). Clean passage. (t) Vacumeter piston atuck in cylinder (WOD carburetor). Clean piston and cylinder. (u) Choke stuck partially closed. Centralize choke valve. Repair or replace choke linkage and/ or choke control cable. Repair automatic choke if used (par. 77).

"So how do I tune this truck?" In general: do a normal tune-up for an internal combustion engine. Bring the ignition system together first. plug gap/ignition timing/breaker point gap/dwell/breaker arm tension...... Check float height: 5/8 inch Carb circuits: float level/idle rpm/idle circuit/accel-pump adjustment (power piston)/fast idle Check the unloader tension arm for the choke Use the nut plug over #6 to find top dead center and max vacuum pull. Depending on the year or use or preference its 2deg BTC or 0deg BTC. Minimum idle speed is 450 to 500 RPMS Resistor plugs need more gap: 0.035 vs non resistor @ 0.025 Your tappets need to be adjusted. Good to try that while running. Can be done not running. Intake 0.008 Exhaust 0.010 Double check float height for starvation Double check vacuum pull Double check the unloader Double check the valves for loose adjustments Double check the nut above #6 after your done checking vacuum and timing Check throttle connections Check choke connections let'er rip 48D P.S. Triple check the damn sparkplug wires for proper location.

While on the steering subject, have any of you used an aftermarket steering wheel on your old Mopars with manual steering, I want to put an aftermarket 3 spoke wheel on my car, I found one or two around 17-inches, but I'm wondering what I can use to mount the steering wheel, most of the adapters I find, are all for 60s and 70s Mopars, nothing for the older cars, I'm just wondering if one of the newer ones would work with our cars, or if I have to have one made at a machine shop or something

I enjoy the 6 volt systems because the vast majority of the people you meet these days know only 12v systems,and it's a lot of fun to see their reaction to a starter turning over so slowly,and then the damn thing actually starts! They just KNOW your battery is dead.

you do not need the vacuum advance for acceleration, actually it is taken out of play by loss of vacuum when accelerating. You can however plug the vacuum line if you feel the vacuum loss may be an issue. As for me, I think I would look closer at the spring tension on the points, modern replacement contact sets are a bit light in the loafers in this department...point bounce or float whichever you like to call it is becoming more and more common

Have you checked fuel filter , fuel pressure and flow ?

Good strong stream from the accelerator pump. Reminds me of my youth. When I was a kid we lived so far out of town I could pee in the backyard. Now I can't pee that far.

You'd think so.... turns out it wasn't me and there is another guy here in town with a plymouth truck!

Sprayed it today! The weed that is. ?

The car looks awesome! But you missed one little weeed right next to the concrete?

I've spent the last 2 days chipping undercoating off the bottom. Not glamorous but needs to be done.

Night in the shop...

I haven't been around the forum too much lately, life got busy but I'll play along and use this thread as a way to ease back in.?

I like such as:

had to rework the rotisserie. It would turn much easier if the the large round ends werent bent when I got them. Still saves crawling under the car.

Here's a pic of adapter bolted to box

http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm Everything you need to know about oil.

But I've read the ads in my car magazines. There are several additives that you really need if you want peak performance. You should see the collar I have on my dog.

I find Champion plugs good for distance. I put Chryco plugs in my car and I can throw Champions farther than any other brand.

Champion spark plugs would be my last choice. There are a lot of folks on this forum who have had bad luck with Champion plugs myself included.