pflaming Posted September 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 Tonight this will look very different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 6, 2014 Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 The truck will be absolutely amazing when finished with the clear coat protectant. So many unusual design patterns and galaxys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 This is like Christmas: I had my DA and Wet/sand all ready to go then surmised, what would I get if I cleaned this fender and door with lacquer thinner, wash it, then wax it. So I did that with the fender but not the door, will do that next. I'm quite convinced, aside from the top of the cab, the remainder of the truck only needs to be cleaned and waxed. I may clear coat it but will do all but wax or clean coat then make the decision. Will probably experiment on the tail gate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 This will be my last post today. I removed the polish, cleaned with acetone, treated with acid, then a light sand, and two coats of clear. May need another coat of clear and then a light buff as suggested by 48D. As a test, on the bed, I brushed on acetone, then phosphoric acid, washed clean and two coats of clear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) I think I have these in the correct progresion: as found, molten tar from melted roofing, sanding, test shot at what it may look like. The top has not been acid treated yet, just sanded and wiped clean. There was a couple areas of melted tar shingles that I had to melt to get off. Sortof like fighting fire with fire! Edited September 9, 2014 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Paul; No torch for you!!!! Take it back and get a fire extinguisher or two. Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) I found these very nice handles. As you can see on the one door handle, they are going to clean up very nicely. I do no know who sent these to me, but a big thank you, very much appreciated. The dash knob came from ggdad, very nice, Thank you also. Will be fun t put these on the truck. Opps, forgot the picture. Very nice this morning, temp at 72 in the shop, 65 outside. Life is good! Edited September 9, 2014 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Phosphoric Acid treatment on the cab top. And a pair of buddies. acid treatment working. Here I follow directions and let it work for about 15 minutes. Washing / cleaning he acid. Top cleaned, when it dries, it gets very dull, so will wet sand this then two coats of Clear gloss paint. Buddies, I AM more careful with fire! When I have cleaned the entire truck, I will then get an experienced painter, prepare the surface and have him shoot it with two or three coats. I can then buff them out for a smooth surface and a deeper shine. I will not dedent the truck, this is a 'survival / Phoenix' finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 I think I brought those handles to you at Tim's BBQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 ggdad, yes he did, just too many things to remember. BEST NEWS TODATE: Doug, TIm, Ed, Dave, CB, IT IS RUNNING! First the gas on the floor, fixed that and cleaned it up, then the lines are nice and tight, it started just as Doug said it would. Not only that, it would return to a nice idle after a good rev up. Now got to get the radiator back on and then I can back it out of the garage. Will take a video later just for the record. Chloe's birthday today, 12 years old, she's my "Trailer Queen". She loves the truck, thinks it has a great aroma, unlike her Nana. She loved it when it started up, "Oh, that's cool!" was her response. Getting close to getting pizza in the mountains again. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Good news but you're not ready to move it yet. Check your brake hoses before moving it. Any charring or hardness on them and they need to be replaced. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 It was nice to get outside and take a good look. Not much fire damage on the passenger side. Most damage on the fender, door and top. I have not attended to the bed as yet. A dirty job to say the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Good to see it moving itself now. Is putting clear on something considered painting it ??. Good job Paul! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Question: "Is putting clear on the same as painting it?" Yes. Clear is resin without any color pigment, thus all paint colors start from clear. The challenge was that all primers are tinted, thus the clear is always the color below. BUT with a phosphoric acid based 'Prep and Etch" product, now the color is the color left by the acid and the clear adheres to the etch. f So now, any antique surface can be etched with "Prep and Etch". So now clear coat will adhere to all bare metal areas and all remaining paint colors. That opens the door for a lot of creativity. I asked four prominent body shops if there was a product that was clear that would etch or prime a surface. All said no! Interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Just having fun with the PP label. No paint. Well you already broke that taboo with the dash/etc. Like the look still. Enjoy along with the dirty work. You are still PP. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Clear is a compatible product to be used with color....Clear has no color and has resins to protect color. Because clear becomes a tough surface, based on the resin content, it can bond with metal as well as wood and other surfaces. The longevity of the final surface depends on the decay of the substrates below it. Without the primers, the shell affect is completely on the Clear. Hopefully the metal has been cleaned well enough and the sanded patina surfaces do not react to the reintroduction of solvents. In all its a unique look. Clear is merely a window to the surface below it. Rattle can or 2k spray gun? 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 It appears to me that the clear coat clearly shows that it needs a paint job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 clear coat..as it is the preverbal window to what is below..it only make the poor condition more apparent.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Paul; You are just way ahead of your time. At least that is the way I choose to look at your approach to this. With just a clear coat you can keep an eye on things as the develop right? At least you are not hiding any thing nasty under bondo and pigment. We have all seen the results of that approach. PP can stand for Pigmentless Paul. There was a point in my project where I considered doing one of those faux stone finishes instead of automotive paint. I am certain I would have caught flak on it. But might have been interesting to have a truck that looked as if it was a chunk of granite. It certainly weighs about that much Hold your head high. Do your own thing. In the end all that matters is that you have enjoyed it. Jeff 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Paul; You are just way ahead of your time. At least that is the way I choose to look at your approach to this. With just a clear coat you can keep an eye on things as the develop right? At least you are not hiding any thing nasty under bondo and pigment. We have all seen the results of that approach. PP can stand for Pigmentless Paul. There was a point in my project where I considered doing one of those faux stone finishes instead of automotive paint. I am certain I would have caught flak on it. But might have been interesting to have a truck that looked as if it was a chunk of granite. It certainly weighs about that much Hold your head high. Do your own thing. In the end all that matters is that you have enjoyed it. Jeff The list grows: Patina Paul Painted Piggies Pigmentless Paul Did I miss any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Persistent Paul...he is like a dog with a bone...at the end of the day the bone and Paul are worse for wear but he sticks at it.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 " . . . are worse for wear. . ." well, not so, because the dog now has nice clean, sharp teeth for armadillos and curious red necks. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 useless if the dog has no bite...a wore out dog at the end of the day is at best a door stop.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Still progressing, running new wires takes time as you all know. Now, question / your suggestion: I picked a pair of these at a flea market last summer in Maine. I've always felt that stock tail lights are very low for modern traffic and I think these correctly placed will give me both a tail/brake light and turn signal. Now I am showing three locations. I tried to place them on the bed's end but they only look good LOW and that is what I am trying to avoid. So your input is requested. Position C would be mounted into a plexi-glass rear window. That position would eliminate cutting spaces in the cab. I have dual bulb filament sockets, so. I'm ready to go . Thank you. Position ideas: Signal close up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikwillig Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 If you want my two cents to this Idea of yours. Which might I add, I quite like the idea of. *makes a note of it* If you were to have a set of lights near the stock location, I'd think about having these ones up high. Think, area A or "D" (upper corners, or above window). Otherwise, area C may be better. Now, I know how some things look nicer up close, so feel free to step back a car length or two and see what you think. If you can that is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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