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The Phoenix is awakening / B3B Rises from the Ashes


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Since the flat gloss was unacceptable, I repainted it with gloss and placed it in the cab. This is an earlier dash so the real dash will be somewhat different. The two tone is more my curiosity than the color. As stated in earlier post(s) our daughter Sherri will be here next week. Color choice will be hers. 

 

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Paul, is that the stock steering wheel? Gary

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For a car, yes, not for the truck. The truck's shaft is smaller. I do like the wheel though. I just put it on to see how it fit with the flat glossy dash. Might look better with a sky blue pink dash!  One must learn to know the modern colors to be politically correct. Oh oh, just went political, hope I don't get banned again!

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DETOUR!  Was  INFORMED this morning that family is coming over Sunday evening to visit with our daughter and her husband, so had to get some things done on the yard and had to do some serious cleaning in the garage. So the start up is still on hold. 

Truck steering wheel 

 

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Every shop needs a nostalgia wall

 

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Mini work bench to rest my legs: Got some distributor work to do

 

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Edited by pflaming
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Custom order from b-quiet - 283.22 USD to my door.

 

This product is to be as good or better than the popular Dynatech product. Dynatech said I would need 86 sq ft to do the entire cab and the cost would be $745.00 not including sales tax. For $283.22 from b-quiet I get 120 sq feet of product. 

So I am going to order this product. 

 

I have copied what Jeff did and will follow that as close as I can. Then he and I will have to meet half distance, bring along sound detection device(s) and compare the results driving the same road(s) and the same speeds etc.

 

Jeff, you up to this? This is not a challenge, it''s  just a comparison test. The loser pays for the other's entrance fees to 48dodger's spring BBQ.  :D

 

Paul;

Sure. It would be interesting to measure the differences you can attain with the sound levels in these cabs. I have ridden in enough noisy old vehicles to appreciate a job well done. A lot of what I have put into mine was done for very small reductions in sound. It all adds up and I really don't mind the extra effort it took.

 

There are a lot of little things you can do. For example the area below the seat. In addition to several coats of brush on bed liner I also put a layer of hushmat over the entire area. Then I made a pattern and cut a double thick piece of foiled bubble wrap type insulation material to fit into this. This was then topped off with a fitted piece of rubberized carpet. Overkill? Sure but it all makes for a very quiet cab. And a great spot to store a tool kit and some spares which won't rattle around and add to cabin noise. It takes an extra minute or two to get to the fuel inspection plug but I can live with that. I pretty much used this type of approach to the entire cab. Lots of little detail stuff..... but it all adds up.

 

Jeff

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Our son-in-law monitors, repairs, writes programs, etc., for a large private school and associated schools. Yesterday we bought an I-pad to add to my computer. Today the computer, printer etc., goes to the new shop and the ipad for remote needs.  Helps to have someone in the family who has that knowledge and skills. Just amazing the amount of discussion took place on options available. He taught the sales person at the corporate sales office a number of combinations that saved me some $200 and I got a personalized system. This will help spread the wings on "The Phoenix".

 

My daughter wants a deep burgundy/light tan interior and prefers the creativity of patina. 

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  • 2 months later...

Wow, last post was in May and now it's mid August.

Off an on the last couple of days been working to get the engine running. Got a far as spark to the plugs and a back fire but . . . When I take the plug wires off to see if they are firing which the are, the starter spins the engine very easily. As soon as I put those wires on the starter LABORS big time.

Just before coming in, 101 today, it occurred to me that the distributor may be off 180 degrees. Is that a fair statement? Would like to hear it run tomorrow.

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Pull # 1 or # 6 plug, bump the starter over with your thumb over the plug hole,  When you can feel it wanting to push your thumb off, check your rotor to see where it's pointing.  It should be pointing at whichever plug wire goes to the cylinder you're checking/.  Your timing mark on the damper should be in the same general area indicating TDC.

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[off topic: may need to get my prostrate opened up, these two hour night trips are getting in the way of my deep sleep]

Engine: 1) was trying to start on the exhaust cycle of the piston, changed that then got a phone call and that took my day. One observation about repaining a fire damaged vehical. Smoke damage / soot / whaever is EVERYWHERE! I've gone too far to turn back, but know now that I will have to pull the engine and tryanny and do a lot of repainting. An accident repair is a part or component repair or replacement all other componets are 'not affedted', fire damage is like the truck was immersed in liquid smoke/soot.

Well, back to my next two hour sleep session. Oh, I took the top of the carb off, carb full of fuel, float works freely but the accelerator pump was stuck, so I may have had a fuel problem. . . little things are BIG things.

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Drifter, hopeto be in the cab next week. (1) finish the wiring, (2) polish athe dash, then CLEAN and sound proofing.

I followed the advice given to start and still wouldn't fire up. So was just standing there wondering why the engine would spin with the starter when the plug wires were off but the starter and batt would go dead in a nano second when I tried to start with the wires on the plugs. Then I saw my new alternator, BAZINGO, it dawned on me that I had switched the battery ground to NEG when I was setting up for 12 volts. I changed that and though the engine did not start, it did everything but. It was hot in that garage and I shut everything down, went inside and toasted Plymouthy by drinking a "BIlly Beer".

Edited by pflaming
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Paul,just going to throw this out there I did a complete engine rebuild went to start it and it sounded like yours does back firing I studied the plug wires verses the rotor I pulled the plug wires and rotated them one hole to the left and it started in a nano second and purrs. So I pulled the timing cover off to check my cam ,crank timing and it was correct .don't know but it purrs..Drifter

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Was heading to the shop to change the wires and now just noted that Don liked your observation. Now that is really encouraging, got to pour me another cup of coffee first.

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If the alternator is set up for neg.  ground, the rest of the system must be set up the same.  The starter will work with 6 or 12 volt, pos or neg.  The small wires on the coil would need to changed to match and the wires on the amp gauge swapped to the opposite post if running through the truck's wiring.  Amp gauge doesn't need to be reversed to get it running, it'll just read backwards until you do.

 

Did you find the compression stroke on 1 or 6 and then turn the crank until the timing marks lined up?  Was the rotor pointing to the appropriate post on the cap?

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Dave, I'm not running through the alternator nor the generator, I'm still at 6 volt so just a simple hot wire: Batt (positive ground - 12 volt battery) to toggle switch: to coil (-) to distributor. Yes on ,#1 lifts my finger (Compresson stroke), timing marks lined up, rotor to 1 o'clock. I then put the plug wires accordingly, I did not start, so moved all wires up one still no run.

 

Frustrated this morning so went on to other things, like water line to my evap cooler for the shop, get ready to paint the dash, need to do that and let it cure before I start reattaching the guage cluster, speedo, etc.  I just now pulled the plugs, laid them on the head and 'ran' the engine. All fired though #6 was weak. Installed the plugs, wouldn't start. Maybe get a new set of wires. I ordered a set this morning.

 

So then my problem is either exact timing or fuel.

 

I'll find the problem, just have to let it play out.  What I need is just one of those gals with the '37, tall blond on the far left, first dibs. LOL

Edited by pflaming
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The completion of the wiring is my current interest. I wanted to 'shine' up the fire tempered dash but that did not look so I broke down and PAINTED it.  I have not seen a two tone 52/53 dash, so I two toned with primer, liked the look and painted the top a satin black and since I could not find a gray, i clear coated the gray primer with a satin clear.

 

Chloe likes it so. Now as you can see, I need two no name knobs (brass), a tower hood, two bezels (choke and throttle, and a nice chrome speaker grill.  ( A pair of fuzzy dice might be appropriate now, LOL) One item I never liked on this dash was the lack of balance with the radio on the passenger side and the vertical gauge 'towers'. I had an extra glove box door so I placed it over the radio holes and 2-toned the dash horizontally. I like the look. The dash extends to the doors so they will be 2-toned as well.  

 

Now it can fully cure over the week end and be less prone to scratching when I finish wiring it. . 

 

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Edited by pflaming
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Question: 'Off topic / in topic": Have any of you put a Mopar CAR steering wheel on a Pilot-house post?  

 

It's going to take a bit of time. Disassembled one bucket, bead blasted, primed, painted.

 

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Just trying to make it all work. I guess the wheel will be black, I tried Maroon and gray but black was the obvious choice. I have a horn ring somewhere. Did find the horn button, springs, et al. 

 

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Being of shirt tail Mennonite background, in the recent past, color was not encouraged thus I guess my penchant for patina.  The gray black is acceptable, now need an Amish hat for the rear window. LOL

Edited by pflaming
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The completion of the wiring is my current interest. I wanted to 'shine' up the fire tempered dash but that did not look so I broke down and PAINTED it.  

 

OMG  :eek: I can't believe it !

 

We'll have to call you "Ol Rattle Can" now,

 

Hank  :lol:

Edited by HanksB3B
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patina is reserved for non ferrous metals such as copper, bronze and brass..the oxidation of steel is called rust...I love patina in its place but rust in not something to be taken lightly...the so called patina on a car is actually a very pitted surface when sandblasted....yes..it looked good before the removal of the oxidation and lots of folks are so fond of this look, but in my opinion I have found "patina" is more due to cost involved to do right over any cosmetic preservation...if the paint has eroded over time to reveal the primer surface..expect pitts..after fire hits a metal surface..expect this to be accelerated..and that is more the agreement here with PP's truck than patina..recovery from fire dmage..

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