dpollo

very carefully weld a nut to the head of a new bolt. dress it with a hand file for looks and it will serve your purpose well.

One reason a good handbrake may not work is the cable stretching to the point the outer sheath will "birds nest" Fluid drive cars are vulnerable . On all makes, the sheath may weaken where it goes around the clutch cover. It also must be anchored to either the inner fender or the base of the steering column. Remember Mr Cunningham's Desoto on Happy Days rolled away more than once. In one episode, its front was part of Arnold's restaurant.

An engine without a bypass spring or even without a plunger would make about this much pressure.

try a drilled plate which will go against the machined edge of the hub and will be held in place by the spindle nut.

they very likely are since the Kingsway was built on a Plymouth body.

37 to 48 are all the same, 49 is unique, 50 to 52 are all the same and 53 to 56 are the same length as 50-2 but have finer splines.

A 205 radial will work well on your original rims.

the 201, 217 and 230 all measure 23 inches along the cylinder head. 230 rods and crankshaft can be used in the 217 but not the 201 218, 228, 236, some 241s , 251 and 265 all use blocks which measure 25 inches along the head and crank with rods are for the most part interchangeable.

I have faced this problem with a right hand steering 38 Dodge which the owner brought with him from NZ when he came here in 1980. It also had one cracked Export Lens which we changed to a generic North American one. The bulbs are prefocussed either 2330s or 2331, I cannot recall which but the terminals are 90 degrees different from 2330 to 2331. These lights dip to the left as one would expect. How that is accomplished , I cannot say. If it were up to me, I would set the lights up to LHD standard which leaves you back where you started for advice. I just thought you should know, your car has a twin . originally sold by Amuri Motors.

I tried a repo door gasket and the door wiped it off right away. About this time I noticed a roll of rubber material on a friend's shelf. Turned out it was the wedge shaped rubber seal for the bottom of an older garage door. This worked perfectly but needed two bent metal tabs to hold the front edge. These were screwed into the holes already drilled for the original gasket

switch should be the same all 50 to 54. relatively easy to disassemble and clean. Six wires, brake light in, flasher in, left rear, right rear, left front, right front out. color coding is likely faded out but a little logic and an ohm meter or a circuit tester can sort out which is which.

It very likely will go in without problems. In 1940, the crankshafts had 4 bolt flanges but later engines had 8 , in part to better support the Fluid Drive. A 4 bolt flywheel to FD will fit the 8 hole flywheel. Note that one hole is offset.

The procedure , as illustrated may need editing. best to remove all moving parts from the block and then clean and check for cracks. Check for undersize and oversize components and separate parts that may be serviceable and those which need replacement. Valves are too hard to respond to lapping, especially exhaust and any removed with pliers should be extra carefully checked to see if they are bent. Also top ring grooves must be "on spec" . Hastings offered a GL spacer and the procedure for installing is easily done but requires either a lathe or a "hand lathe" especially made for the purpose. Only when all parts are cleaned , assembly may proceed. There is little point in building a "grenade". New parts are more expensive these days and it is a shame to waste them.

What a great start to my day (year) Thanks, Keith, I will see if Murray is on the forum he would like a ride in his old car.

Slide under and run a ground lead from the frame to the steel gas line.

A dead plug will be sooty black compared to the others.

Oil is supplied under pressure to the filter. with a stuck bypass, it cannot return to the pan.

I successfully dealt with a stuck plunger by installing an oil pump with the relief valve in the cover (53-4 Chrysler) the downside is that the bypass oil filter does not work. Temporary repair, still running so far as I know 30 years later.

What is black and tan and looks good on a prowler? A Doberman.

quick fix that doesn't look too bad is to put a Tee in the heater outlet on the right rear corner of the head . that is 3/8 pipe, so you need a 1/2 inch tee, a 3/8 nipple and bushing and another for the heater hose. The temp gauge fitting will screw into the tee. Enough water will circulate to operate the gauge even when the heater is off.

You have the ignition lead on the accessory terminal which is not energized when the starter is engaged. If you push start the car, it will fire right up. Got a bargain on a 54 Plymouth with this error. Ten bucks !

The expander, called a Marcel is most often found behind the upper oil ring. In some ring sets, a marcel is used behind the second compression ring

You are in a world of hurt. You have probably come up with the most difficult swap there is . If you are lucky, the P25 block will be a 230 and has 8 holes in the crankshaft. Otherwise the fluid drive will not fit. If you are going to use a Hydrive, then the block must have the necessary passageway for return oil to the pan, and machine work to seal the end of the oil gallery to the Hydrive adapter. You cannot use the truck bell housing pictured without ruining the car. A Plymouth bell housing will work if you cut and move the crossmember and change ALL the linkages and lengthen your driveshaft. Re read the posts above, Greg, Young Ed and Duly seem to have been there. ( years ago I had a Hydrive car which needed a new block , I could not find one and wound up.... shame on me... installing a 283 Chev.)

It is there. look into the two small holes just inside the pan rail. If the crankshaft is still in place, a shot of air into the oil gallery should push the plunger out. If it were not there, you would have had no oil pressure. If it were stuck the oil pressure would have been 100 lbs or more just after startup. Make sure you get it out. If it remains in place and is stuck, you have real problems.

Be sure to protect the threads at the top of the steering tube. If you bell-mouth the tube with the puller, the game is over. Reinstall the nut but not tight and make a simple center for the puller which will slip into the tube. A bolt will work it you round the edges and for a dimple to engage the pointed end of the puller.