dpollo

Others have mentioned a vacuum leak . That might be the problem . Check under the middle runner on the intake. They can be prone to cracking. If you squirt oil over it , the oil will be drawn into the crack. You could also use propane but there is a significant hazard of fire.

Detergent oils are meant to keep clean engines clean. I think Doug and Deb are right unless you are prepared to pull the pan and have a good look. to answer an earlier question (now a moot point) Hydrive Cars have HYDRIVE written on the right side of the trunk lid, and have a neutral indicator on the steering column. There is, as I recall, a neutral safety switch on the transmission and a special filler cap for engine oil with some instructions as to refilling after an oil change. Canadian cars used the longer engine. Yours is a 228. 3 3/8 by 4 1/4. When asking for service parts, always specify the 251 truck engine. Parts outlets have been issued American specs and would list a 230 for your car which is different. The most obvious difference is that the cylinder head is 23 inches long. Yours is 25.

As soon as the kick down has been accomplished, the solenoid is ready to reengage the overdrive which happens when the driver releases the throttle, causing the balk ring to move, In this circumstance, the solenoid is drawing full current...... at a guess 12 amps. It can make a fair amount of heat but unless one was climbing a steep hill, it would be temporary and no harm is done. A set of points inside the solenoid returns the holding coil to use when the solenoid is reengaged..... maybe 3 amps. The second terminal on the solenoid is the ignition interrupter circuit. You must be careful not to mix these wires up.

Hydrive uses engine oil in the torque converter which has a three speed transmission behind it. The transmission uses conventional gear oil but the engine and torque converter uses 10 quarts or more and each must be drained separately but can be refilled from the engine. I can only recommend you do more research to learn the procedure for changing oil and about Hydrive itself. , You could drain the engine only and refill but that leaves 5 quarts of dirty oil in the converter which will immediately mix. Not a good idea. Usually Hydrive models had a gear lever indicator on the steering column to indicate Neutral. Hydrives worked quite well and people enjoyed their merits but the fully automatic Powerflite would have been preferable to most. By now you have probably figured out if you have Hydrive. but if you have not figured it out, , Start the car, put it in gear,( any gear, High will do) put your foot on the brake and release the clutch. If the engine stalls, you have conventional drive. If it continues to run, release the brake and push the throttle down. The car should drive away just as an automatic would.

As others have pointed out, it is a 52. Plymouth never made a "Super" Deluxe. The Belvedere was more expensive although, strictly speaking the hard top was a "Cranbrook Belvedere" The convertible was the most expensive and it was available only as a Cranbrook. Other cars used bolts to hold the wheels on. most notably Buick. This guy thinks he is pretty well informed but this account is almost embarrassing . Cringeworthy perhaps. If he knows anything about Ford, he would know that "Safety" was their selling point in 55-6.

Bob's dash is correct. Someone has mixed up the positions of the control knobs

Pat 8 14 28 is, I believe, a patent date located on the radiator shell. My model Q Plymouth was built in 28, sold new Jan 2 29 and is registered as a 29. It has the same number on its radiator shell passenger side

I have the twin to your car, Go. In BC mountains there are some steep and some long grades. On a very hot day, over 90 F, I drove my convertible on such roads and found that a steady 45 mph without overdrive the temperature stayed high - normal. When I reached my destination, we went over the radiator and block with a laser thermometer and found that the temperatures were not as high as the gauge suggested. I can supply a smaller water pump pulley as found on trucks should you need or want it.

Flat cover locks were used through 47. The thicker cover was typically 48

Locks and keys have always held a fascination for me. I have collected DPCD locks and learned how to pick them open to remove the lock cylinder from the ignition switch. I can sit at my desk for hours rekeying and or matching orphan keys with locks. so Loren, you are not alone out there. Among other sometimes nefarious skills I have repaired replacement speedometer units to show appropriate mileage. I do not do this for hire.

Congratulations, Robert. Spring is arriving !

I cannot imagine how, but it sounds like you put a longer bolt in one of the holes which is now in contact with the flywheel.

On the key start switches, the ACC terminal is de energized when the key is turned to Start. If you connect the ignition to this terminal, it makes the engine almost impossible to start in the usual manner. I got a really good deal on a 54 Plymouth which had been wired this way. $10.

looks correct to me. It is simply a relay for the horn and a junction point for the ignition circuit.

Raybestos WC10580 10581 10582 10583 are the front cylinder numbers for 46 to 56 10588 the rears ( not absolutely sure that is the right number as I sit here) BH 10595 front hoses all available ( on order) at any good auto supply. I have been rebuilding wheel and master cylinders for 60 years but for a customer or a novice, go for new. the above cylinders were about $50 each.

It will be a grand day when the odometer goes from 99999.9 to 00000.0

I have two "Delete Fluid Drive" options.... these consist of a regular Plymouth or a Dodge truck flywheel disc and pressure plate. all easy to get. The hard parts are an extra long input shaft an extra long throw out bearing collar and an extra long front bearing retainer. This allows the FD bell housing to stay in the car and nothing else needs to be changed. I do not recall where the first one came from but the second came out of a 54 Dodge Red Ram which was standard and overdrive. The long bell housing was used to fit under the floor pan. Sorry I cannot offer either one for sale. I first learned about this as an option from Tex Smith who wrote many auto related articles when he purchased a 48 Chrysler Limo which had been a Glacier Park vehicle.

The oil cross over pipe stung me once, and almost twice but although the contact between the pipe and crankshaft was slight, the noise was continuous.It you shine a strobe timing light on the valve springs and tappets, it may "freeze frame " the trouble. Move the pickup 1 5 3 6 2 4 .

my next guess is an intermittently sticking valve but this would also cause a noticeable miss. Have a listen at the tailpipe when the clicking is taking place.

Take a compression test. If it is within specs then you can rule out the specter of broken piston rings causing fragments to enter and bounce around in the combustion chambers. Another possibility is a faulty fuel pump. Clicking can also , occasionally, be traced to the oil pressure bypass. Speeding the engine up would make it stop.

Try this. remove the cover from the oil pump. ( mark it first so it goes back on the same way ) Wipe the surfaces clear of oil. Spread a very small amount of the old Permatex number 2 Aviation Forma Gasket over the visible surface of the o ring. Replace cover.

A good used transmission should not be hard to find. I am on Vancouver Island and could help but would recommend you ask Dodge B4ya. in WA.

Good job ! On a car which has rusted to the extent yours has, it would be a good idea to replace all the steel brake lines. It is a fairly easy job . The line over the rear axle near the tailpipe is particularly vulnerable and so is the line directly below the battery tray.

First drives can be a challenge but you had better do something about the oil pressure. Specs call for 40 lbs at 30 mph although good engines usually run about 45 on the gauge. There is an oil bypass on the driver's side of the block with a spring and plunger. It sounds like someone has installed the wrong spring, or put spacers behind it. If you leave it as it is, I think it will overload and prematurely wear the oil pump and the timing chain...... It will also contribute to flooding the cylinders with too much throw off from the rods. Ten pounds pressure for every thousand rpm is an engineering standard proven by years of experience.

I may have one, however the reproductions are better than the originals. 37 and 38 are the same. given previous experience shipping from Canada to England, $200 for a pair is good value.