dpollo

You are in a world of hurt. You have probably come up with the most difficult swap there is . If you are lucky, the P25 block will be a 230 and has 8 holes in the crankshaft. Otherwise the fluid drive will not fit. If you are going to use a Hydrive, then the block must have the necessary passageway for return oil to the pan, and machine work to seal the end of the oil gallery to the Hydrive adapter. You cannot use the truck bell housing pictured without ruining the car. A Plymouth bell housing will work if you cut and move the crossmember and change ALL the linkages and lengthen your driveshaft. Re read the posts above, Greg, Young Ed and Duly seem to have been there. ( years ago I had a Hydrive car which needed a new block , I could not find one and wound up.... shame on me... installing a 283 Chev.)

It is there. look into the two small holes just inside the pan rail. If the crankshaft is still in place, a shot of air into the oil gallery should push the plunger out. If it were not there, you would have had no oil pressure. If it were stuck the oil pressure would have been 100 lbs or more just after startup. Make sure you get it out. If it remains in place and is stuck, you have real problems.

Be sure to protect the threads at the top of the steering tube. If you bell-mouth the tube with the puller, the game is over. Reinstall the nut but not tight and make a simple center for the puller which will slip into the tube. A bolt will work it you round the edges and for a dimple to engage the pointed end of the puller.

I believe the larger car lower control arms are longer than the Plymouth.

you will be very pleased with a 228 bored .060 to 3 7/16. all the Fluid Drive Dodges in Canada used the 228, so also did the Plymouth in 54-55.

you may be thinking of the "pal" nuts used as lock nuts. Measure the stroke. 41/2 for 251, 43/4 for 265

the radio was meant to be installed at the far left and used the same dial and buttons as a 51 -2 Plymouth

as noted above.

I have a box full of just the items you have shown. PA had the best advice, use as needed.

There is a groove these pieces fit in. The rear main cap fits tight to the block at the bearing saddle but not at the outside edges, that is why these H seals are important !

Flush is fine. If the bushing is the correct oilite one, a very little dab of wheel bearing grease can be put behind it. These bushings are the same from the early Chrysler 4 through the 360 engines.

The Cambridge came with one visor for the driver, cardboard. the right hand side was optional . Holes are pre threaded. Most any visor for DPCD 49 to 54 will fit (right and left) but there are variations in the fabric covering. 54s were vinyl. Some are plated bases but low line are painted. I saved a number of them for years. Sorry, I am not offering them for sale.

When I next replace the front bearing , I will use one that is sealed on the front side. this should reduce flow through.

The front bearing has no seal. Instead, there is a drain back passageway between the front bearing retainer ( this is the funnel shaped piece that supports the throw out bearing) and the main case. I am betting this drain is blocked by a carelessly placed gasket. I spent 4 1/2 hours this past Labor Day repairing this very thing ! 4 1/2 hours to replace a 25 cent gasket ! Fixed the leak though ! I am not going to reveal who assembled the transmission but thankfully it was not me.

I have had the Jiffy Jet nozzle and tube for years ! Never knew what it was for since my focus has been mostly on Plymouth but I think the 41 had an extra hole. Other Jiffy Jet items that I have kept are the individual nozzles that go through the cowl. What do you bet that when I go out to the shop and pull the box where the nozzle has been for 40 years, it will not be there. Great discussion thread and good luck. dp

One route you might choose is the "delete" fluid drive option. This consisted of a long throw out bearing sleeve, a long input shaft and a standard flywheel. I never knew this existed until Leroi "Tex" Smith bought a Yellowstone Park 48 Chrysler limousine which was so equipped. another use for this equipment was in 54 V-8 Dodge cars which needed the deep bell housing used by FD cars to fit the engine into an engine compartment designed for the six. The advantage to using such equipment is that all the levers and controls stay the same and the original cross member remains intact. I am not offering to part with the items I have, but it gives you a path to explore.

3 7/16 makes a great bore size for 3 3/8

3 3/8 bore engines were used in Canada until 1955. They were not as widely used in the USA. It has been difficult to buy new 3 3/8 bore pistons for 30 years or more but the standard 3 7/16 piston is the same as 3 3/8 + .060. A change in the width of the top ring was made postwar and this will play nicely into your overhaul. If you can get an early set of 3 3/8 standard rings, you will find the top ring is too wide for your mid 50s pistons so you have a machinist reprove the top land to fit the earlier top rings. Regrooving top lands was done on any competent overhaul to avoid top ring problems . A Hastings GL spacer was inserted into the groove against the upper land so the standard width ring could be used. Using the earlier ring set with the later pistons means you do not need the spacer. Start looking for a standard 3 3/8 piston ring set. It could take some time.

The 39 Shop manual has a very detailed description of the Overdrive, which for 39 incorporated a kick -down feature but is otherwise very similar to earlier units. Plymouth offered overdrive on export models but units were available on Chrysler. As for the parking brake, you may have to re route the cable. This installation should present very few problems. The drive shaft will need to be shortened.

I have done this several times. Plymouth wheels fit 11 inch drums but I had trouble with the 12 inchers, and had to use Chrysler wheels Spindle must match the drum size . Cylinders are the same. King pins are the same. Be sure to adjust toe in after changing spindles.

It is possible to bypass the heater core altogether, but it will remove heat from the engine if needed.

in practical terms, you can live without the bypass . the heater circuit, if open, will allow circulation.

some ill informed people may regard that big lump of cast iron as being pretty crude but it is actually a precision fit machine..... as you have recently learned. with the care you have exercised, your overhaul should be a long lasting success. Best of luck.

the 37 has an external bypass hose, one inch in diameter, which connects to a fitting on top of the water pump. The thermostat housing also aligns the top hose with the radiator. 51 and newer engines (except some "Spitfires) have an internal bypass making additional plumbing unnecessary.

Great video, Keith. Good plug for the NAAFH. I now have an "Autostop" Great accessory, like Studebaker's Hill Holder. another accessory to look for is a "Shift-rite" gear lever knob. Looks like your original knob but when you push the button on the end, it will downshift your M6