dpollo

short answer, No. Front clip. No. The 51 is significantly wider at the windshield.

241 may be 25 inches But, if it was built between 1934 to 37 it is a very different engine from all the others. Recognizable because it shows the outline of the cylinders.

the ratio will be written on the crown gear.

good looking gears. probably 4,1 to 1. Talk to me if you decide to change the ratio. These gear sets gave very little trouble. if it ran quietly, put a new seal on it and reinstall. Use a Hypoid high pressure oil 80 os 90 SAE

glad you asked answers are 1 no 2 no reason to 3 yes and 4 no. to elaborate, oil pressure is regulated by the pressure regulator in the block and it also controls the amount of oil that travels through the.filter . At idle when pressure is say 20 lbs , no oil passes through the filter It is a BYPASS filter flex lines can be a trouble point and not necessary because the filter bolts to the engine. It is imperative that the inlet is at the side or top of the canister and the drain is at the bottom and connected to the vertical facing block port which leads back via the relief valve to the pan otherwise the contents of the cartridge may be forced out and will reappear in the sump where it will be recirculated and collect in the annuli of the main bearings causing crankshaft failure Yes, I have seen this happen oil pressure in the main distribution gallery pushes a piston against a spring . this simultaneously opens a return to the pan and a circuit through the filter ( if so equipped ) only about 15% of the oil travels through the filter circuit at any given time Chrysler engines and all modern engines have Full Flow filters Don't confuse the two. confused now ?

if you want to make adjustments without damaging your hearing, stuff a rag into the trumpet.

i will let everyone know what I can even if my card comes back in the mail.

I was wondering the same thing and discussed it with Plymouthy Adams. I have Arthur's home address and can send him a card. I will do it right now so I don't forget and tell him we are missing him and wish him well. dp..................OK, done, I will get it in the mail and see what happens. dp

my advice to you would be to spend your money on other aspects of your rebuild..... like balancing. The guides and seats cause very little trouble and your block will accommodate a .060 overbore. Cast iron is the preferred material for sleeves.

I have never seen a PN on a 50 Plymouth .bumper

always curious. I would have had his email address except i had my computer serviced by a local genius who lost all my contacts. I recollect it was sneakypete @ ?? I will see if I have it written down somewhere.

Our old forum friend Nuckle Harley ? no that would be KH . haven't seen any action from him on the forum lately. hope he is OK.

the bypass is not part of the thermostat or its housing on Dodge after 1950. any Chrysler product 6 except the Spitfire series uses a conventional thermostat, Seems to me one from a 318 should work.

green 12 V red 6 v.

those are Autolite starters typical of 46 to 56 Plymouths. (57 onward had a smaller drive gear)

the unused hole is for the throttle bell crank on post war engines and it cannot go through to the combustion chamber as it would interfere with the gasket. It does go into the water jacket. Plymouth heads of this era had a P where yours has a D I think it is safe to assume D is for Dodge.

a speedi sleeve makes a nice repair but they are spendy.

50 Ply for the stone shields 37 Dodge grille center possibly 38

I got my first 6 volt battery in 1956. $11.00 . I had a 35 Plymouth that I drove on farm roads, I used the same battery in a 40 and later in a 50 which was my first "road car" I got 11 years use from it in three different cars. I have achieved the same results from a modern,( generally group 2) battery used in similar cars. Sometimes I am disappointed but battery life has generally been satisfactory. The secret is to not let them sit for lengthy periods of time in a discharged state.

that is an M6 semi automatic which would be found in Chrysler, Desoto and some Dodge models, it has 4 speeds upper range hydraulically operated and was coupled with a fluid drive. It is not suitable for use in a Plymouth, nor is it an overdrive

Plymouth used vacuum wipers until 1951 and looking at the firewall, my guess is that the car pictured is a P15.

sounds like you have covered nearly all the bases check the float level in the carb and the accelerator pump. The "almost" stumbling could be as simple as a too lean mixture. a quick test would be to contrive to close the choke just a little .... say with a bit of wire..... and see if the engine runs better. If the engine has been rebored, the increased displacement could be demanding just a little more fuel. The accelerator pump can be enriched by moving the link to the outermost hole on the lever. also, the jet may need cleaning... a welding tip cleaner will work.... remove the tapered soft plug which is just below the lid on the engine side. A pair of diagonal wire cutters can be used to tease it out of its hole. If your engine is not broken in yet, it will continue to improve with use, up to about 2500 miles. Re tighten the head bolts soon. 65 to 70 ft lbs . start with the bolt in the middle between 3 and 4 . a tightening sequence can be found in the shop manual or in a Motors manual. I got my first 50 in 1965 and have never been without one.

I hope you get as much pleasure from your 50 as I have from mine. Got my first one in 1965 and have not been without one since.

to answer a question away back. Bullet connector to the tank sender. Resistor power supply to the stud. a marker light from a 70s 80s car makes a good (if makeshift) resistor.

yes but the Plymouth bodied cars outnumbered the U S. based Dodge by far.