dpollo

D 46 is a 53 230 cubic inch

I seem to be the kiss of death to anything to do with computers and websites. Even the words "on line" give me a chill. If I were faced with what Keith is up against I would simply withdraw. That is where it is for me. Hopefully Keith will persist and work around the problem. I have enjoyed all his posts. I enjoy this forum. However, I cannot recall ever posting a picture on this site, although I have tried. That is where I am.

the overdrive unit cannot function in reverse. It must be locked out and this is accomplished internally by the reverse shift rail pushing back on a rod protruding from the overdrive. If there was an electrical fault causing the engagement solenoid to be energized, reverse could not be engaged. By manipulating the lever, it may be that the electrical circuit was opened by the rail lock out switch mounted on the overdrive and reverse could then be engaged.

Sounds like a real tale of woe. There are several clues as to why reverse would not engage hidden in the correspondence above. First, does reverse engage in the main box but will not drive the car ? If so, the shift rail is not locking the overdrive unit out. In this case, when the overdrive is manually locked out, reverse should work. Second possibility is that the solenoid is energized so reverse cannot be selected. In this case, when electrics are disconnected, reverse will work. Third is if the shift rail for low is not engaging the overdrive lockout rail there is either a part missing or some internal interference due perhaps to the front case not being the one designed for use with overdrive although the only difference I have found is an oil delivery passage. What you need to do is pick up your overdrive and RUN, don't walk and find yourself a mechanic who is willing to read the shop manual. These are simple mechanical devices and EASY to service. I am in Canada, but a long way from you otherwise I would show you how to do it and guarantee it will work.

answer to Bryan. Definitely Popular Science July 53. I have it in front of me. Volume 163, #1.

In Popular Science Monthly July 1953 , there is an article on how a shade tree mechanic and his helper put a rebuilt engine into a D24 Dodge over a weekend. Good reading. Page 140, 18 reasonably good illustrations and step by step directions. Can be read on Youtube but I have the magazine. I remember reading it when I was a teenager . ( in the mid 60s)

Tod Fitch's answer above is the most likely to solve your problem. The distributor drive gear is on the oil pump. When the pump is installed correctly ( the procedure is in the shop manual) the distributor rotor can be placed at about the 7 o'clock position for #1. When that is done, there will be no interference with the vacuum advance and other protrusions. The major and minor adjustments will be within range as well. It is possible to time the engine with the drive gear in the wrong position ( by moving wire positions or rotating the distributor body) but problems such as the one you have experienced will likely occur.

Tod is correct Turn the outer ring anti clockwise . Use both thumbs and push !

You do not need to remove the hinges. There are 6 1/4 inch bolts (7/16 heads) 3 on each side fastening the hood to the hinges. There may be an additional bolt in the center of the hood, holding it to the cross brace. Mark the position of the hood relative to the hinge so you can put it back exactly as it came off. If you undo the hinges from the body, my guess is that you will find it very challenging to ever make it fit again.

Hello Go, from the owner of your car's twin. David Pollock. British Columbia.

I concur with Young Ed

I have a couple of them but have never needed to use one.

A friend used a 322 Buick in his 41 Plymouth back in 62. All Plymouth from the flywheel back. Same today. In my experience, axle failure ( LHS) was rare and usually 50 to 52. The 37 to 48s were very good units. The parking brake, or lack thereof can be solved by mounting the drum and band on the input shaft of the differential. A disc brake might be preferable.

Eleven inch brakes make a significant improvement especially with regard to "fade" and as Sniper points out, you need the knuckle which matches the backing plate. Should you choose 12 inch brakes, the Plymouth 15 inch wheel will not fit, but the 15 by 4 1/2 Chrysler and Desoto will. Dodge USA drums have a flat flange and use a wheel with a different offset but all could be used under a Plymouth. I once bought a 54 Plaza which had been a police car and am still using its eleven inch brakes. ( or parts of them anyway) As for the Torrington needle upper bearing, Canadian built Plymouths also used these, possibly to offset the extra weight of the longer engine. In my many many years of servicing these cars, I have never found one worn out. I wish I could say the same for the bearing which actually carries the weight.

Glad that two out of three are carrying some stainless from my stockpile.

If my advice has resulted in ruining your cover, I will send you a replacement. PM me.

To get the bushing out you select a tap which will cut into the bushing and form a thread . You run the tap through, cutting a thread all the way through. Keep turning until the tap hits bottom. Turn some more and the bushing comes out slick as can be !

GM before 54 were Negative ground. It is possible in Luxury Liner's case that someone has reversed the ammeter connections. As stated above, Start at the beginning. Connect the battery with the positive terminal grounded. Polarize the generator by fastening a clip lead to the BATT terminal of the regulator and brushing the other end across to the ARM . A few sparks and it is done. It is then safe to start the engine. Other components in the car are not polarity sensitive except the radio which will work but not as well. A correctly function ammeter will prove that all is well. Warning : It is possible to reverse charge a battery. Check with a multimeter that the POS and NEG posts are what they claim to be. If this is the case, the battery must be completely exhausted before a recharge is attempted. This is a job for someone who knows how.

very nice ! so long as the FD is not leaking I would be inclined to leave it alone. It should not feel like it is slipping at speeds above 40 mph My experience with them is limited but by and large they are pretty reliable. Good luck with the car.

usually this happens because the shaft has been pushed out through the front, ruining the interference fir. I found a soft plug, maybe the same one as used on the lower shift rail and pushed it into the hole against some sealer. did the job. also, the gasket is a must. just to be sure, make sure the gasket behind the front bearing retainer is not covering the drain-back port.

I am about to build an Inukshuk of sorts using empty Chrysler engine blocks and heads as building " blocks" Just so the people will know I was here.

Gudgeon pin is a thumb press fit at 70 degreed Fahrenheit.

If you rotate the crankshaft, a counterweight or other flat surface presents itself so a small pry bar can use it as a fulcrum. you can then provide an even force against the rear main which as I recall has an overhanging lip into which the end of the bar can be inserted. Avoid hammers. On the 201, studs are used to secure the mains. These thread into the block and it may be possible (by setting up a jam nut) to remove the stud while the cap is still in place.

My outside hoist is a single post and is not affected by weather although it does not get that cold. around here. I changed the oil (25 gallons) this year due to water contamination but the air for lifting would bring moisture with it each time. Altogether, it is a very satisfactory unit but it lacks a safety prop.

Think of all the jobs you can now do more easily ! I have been using an air/oil post hoist for 30 plus years but it is outside the garage. Light is better there but that is scant consolation. I really admire your set up. Also, your parking spaces are now 2 for 1 so long as the top space is not occupied by a leaker. Best to all !