dpollo

sounds to me like you have a non vented cap on the fuel tank and without air going in, gas cannot come out.

I had a similar problem on a customer's 42 Plymouth. A little curl of metal probably caused by threading the brass fitting into the fuel pump lodged itself on the needle valve's seat. This occurred on a club tour to Vernon BC. I repaired it, much to my relief in a motel parking lot in Vernon

use wheels from a Desoto or Chrysler Royal or Windsor 48 to 54 or Dodge, but you must have a matched set (different offset (except Canada)

Did you know that in 37 there is provision for a rear seat speaker built into the backrest and upper cushion of the front seat ? The speaker faces the rear seat passengers.No reason the 38 would be different . When not installed, there are no external clues . It is in the centre of the front seat backrest either just above or just below the robe rail cord.

no guess about it.

P11 is 1941 I believe that is the last year for the 201.

do these things make you happy ? 'nuff said . let us hoist one to Don. I miss him. dp

I have a car completely disassembled but despite moments of despair, it is keeping me on track during this isolation period. The new door sills are done as are the body mounts and I am getting the suspension ready to go back on the frame. I am using eleven inch brakes from a Chrysler Royal

looks good Keith. The hub cap pictured should have red lettering. It is from a 50. 37 38 and low line 39 and 40 used a cap with italic letters and slightly smaller diameter. the cap you have there looks better and if you do not have a full set I can help.

a long way from here.

I am on Vancouver Island where are you ?

I was pondering this problem for someone else and if I were stuck, and wanted the column shift, this is what I would do. Install a trans from 40 to 56 (maybe even one from a short wheelbase car since it has no tail shaft.) Use the steering column jacket and ALL the parts related to the gearshift from the same car 49 to 54 are arguably the simplest but all have a frame mounted bell crank. ( avoid a 40 because it uses a cable and this might put you back where you started) An advantage to doing this is the R10 overdrive can be used too. You will have to alter the length of the drive shaft. Otherwise I would get the lid with the floor shifter from a 35 to 39 and with it the shift rails. This will fit on the top of your 39 trans.

convert the entire car to 12 volt negative ground if you must. 6 volt wiring is heavier gauge so most wires can be retained. The ammeter connections must be reversed and voltage must be limited for the fuel gauge ans other items such as the wipers and heater motors. Horns and all light bulbs must be changed to 12 Volt units. It is not a conversion I would recommend except when a more modern engine is installed.

A 241/270 would be the easiest to adapt if you have the bell housing for that engine, BUT I got to the mockup stage with a 241 standard with overdrive into a 52 Plymouth and the starter will not clear the steering box . I used a 273 with a 3 speed all synchro in a 57 pickup with great success. The column shift was a challenge . I used the lever selector (at the steering column ) from an early 50s Chevrolet.

Michael Warsaw ....... Mike@MpoarPro.com offers new units at a reasonable price

if you read what I wrote in reply, I did not suggest you get rid of anything. I wished only to caution you that a pre war 201 would not do much for you in performance . If this engine is from a 46, it would do the job adequately but looking at the throttle linkage and the manifold , I suspect it is older than that.

.003 for every inch of bore is what most ring manufacturers recommend this is to be measured at the bottom of the bore on a used cylinder. No harm will result if the gaps are wider than spec (within reason)

try Michael Warsaw Mopar pro I recently sold him a cable. 516 233 7788

The engine sounds just fine but judging from the carb and manifold, water upper outlet as well as the speedo drive, and the wide belt front pulley, it is from a pre war car maybe as early as 1940 ( P10 ) which is only 84 hp. (201 cubic inches) The engine number is at the front left corner above the generator 42 and later were 217s and rated at 95 hp while the 52 (P23) was rated at 97. The position of the speedo drive pictured is on the lower right. In 52 it is upper left so you will need a longer cable say from a 46-48 I would not spend a lot of money on this engine but run it as is until you find a later block. The front pulley from 51 to 56 uses a narrow belt which is easier to get than the older wide ones . Plymouths generally did not use harmonic balancers.

National 5797 is the seal I have used.

in Canada, pinstripes seem to gave ended with the 50 models but continued on USA cars. 3 stripes such as Worden illustrated were the norm from 39 to 50 however I cannot speak for USA models. Worden's is a 51. 37 and 38 had a single stripe on the wheel centre and another around the rim. Earlier cars with the artillery wheels had a stripe, or possibly 2 stripes on the rim and some had a sunburst on the spokes.

it is close to a month and no reply but my letter has not been returned. good sign maybe.

i have enough trouble making correct parts fit correctly anymore.

short answer, No. Front clip. No. The 51 is significantly wider at the windshield.

241 may be 25 inches But, if it was built between 1934 to 37 it is a very different engine from all the others. Recognizable because it shows the outline of the cylinders.