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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/31/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Here ya go... I can get you better pics if you need. The back of the tank hangs from the crossmember and is solid bolted. The front sits on top of the crossmember lip and has the springs as shown.
  2. 1 point
    Pee? You can still pee?
  3. 1 point
    I ended up getting Jegs ralleys with caps in 15x6. $257 total and I threw in a t shirt for no reason.
  4. 1 point

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    I fixed the pic for you 😁 Read your thread and it's quite refreshing to witness your enthusiasm for experiencing the idiosyncrasies of an old car.
  5. 1 point

    No interrupter on carb

    In your first pic on this thread. Bottom unit mounted in that 'box' on the air cleaner support.
  6. 1 point
    Dan Hiebert

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    Two things - 1st - yes, the pinstripes are a factory item, I'd only be guessing if I said how I thought they were applied. Many years, makes, and models had them (i.e., our '37 Terraplane has 'em) so I wouldn't have a definitive answer on when they started or when they ended. 2nd - the master cylinder is indeed not a difficult item to remove / replace / or even rebuild. I don't recall if your car has the removable floorboards, our D24 does, so it was a topside fix for me. If you do have to crawl under the car, that would probably be the hardest part. It's not the first thing I'd want to do again, but I wouldn't cringe about it if I had to.
  7. 1 point
    Decided to check the cold valve clearances on my B3B as I have the manifold off and room to work. I copied the following adjustment sequence from the "technical section". Adjustment of #5 and #2 inlet valves are listed in both Stage A and B. Thinking that: #5 both valves should be #5 exhaust? #2 both valves should be #2 exhaust? Stage A, #1 and #6 at TDC, #1 in firing position Stage B, #1 and #6 at TDC, #6 in firing position To move from Stage A to B, manually turn the engine 1 revolution. Stage A – Adjust #1 Both valves, #2 Inlet valve, #3 Exhaust Valve, #4 Inlet valve, #5 Both valves. Stage B – Adjust #2 Both valves, #3 Inlet valve, #4 Exhaust valve, #5 Inlet valve, #6 Both valves.
  8. 1 point

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    Worden it's not a difficult task to change the master cylinder. It turned out being easier than I anticipated. The master cylinder came come out fairly quickly. Not as quick as "ready for this weekend", but worth doing yourself.
  9. 1 point

    1939 business coupe build

  10. 1 point
    May not work on my truck this weekend, bit I do plan to work on a Dodge truck. The plan is to assist Kris Bolstad on a brake job for his '49 1 ton... Which reminds me... Can anyone tell me the size of the spindle nuts on the rear hubs for a B-1-D?
  11. 1 point
    I'm sure you will get a lot of advice and "what I would do" so this will be mine.... If you're good with a tape measure, carpenter's square and protractor. If the original frame is as good as it looks, clip it with the Dakota front end, install the springs and rear axle in the back, leave the rest of the Dakota frame for the scrappers. Much easier and the end result might look a little better.
  12. 1 point
    I agree mark. I like the cold better.
  13. 1 point

    Where to buy a Desoto s11 starter

    Autolite stater solenoid.pdf Attached is a listing of the correct stater solenoid that were used on Chrysler Desoto Hope this helps yopu find the correct part. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  14. 1 point

    Where to buy a Desoto s11 starter

    Lets see a picture of your starter to help us help you. Is it a square four terminal starter solenoid type? if it is they are very difficult to find and very costly. The round solenoids on top of the starter are much more common. DeSoto used both types....square type solenoid starters a bit more powerful than the round solenoid type up through 1950.
  15. 1 point

    1939 business coupe build

    I've seen them on eBay before, they are some kind of newfangled LED lights, they were on the car when I got it
  16. 1 point
    That sheet metal on the Powell is so simple you could fabricate replacement panels with just tin snips! One could easily build a nose out of sheet metal and ditch the corvette aspect, lol
  17. 1 point
    you know what "YUGO" is for right? ..... wait for it....... You go crazy trying to go 55mph you know why they put a rear windshield defroster in the YUGO?....... to keep your hands warm while your pushing it. those were the standing "Jokes" when I worked in the "lube industry" (aka Q-lube and Jiffy lube) at times, we were bored
  18. 1 point

    new guy's 1947 WD-21

    I am the proud owner of a newer engine that turns. It is a P25, so could be a 218 or 230. Don't know if it means anything, but there was a diamond before P25 and a star after. The PO said the car was a '53 and it came with an auto trans. In my experience, a truck engine usually had heavier internals than a car engine. Hopefully it will move this truck ok. I want to keep this truck as stock as possible, so thinking about swapping everything 1947 onto this engine. Will test fire before swapping. Not a fan of autos, so look for it in classifieds. Sorry, no photo. Darn camera broke.
  19. 0 points

    Where to buy a Desoto s11 starter

    The very first car I ever bought was a 38 Royal 4dr sedan. Paid 20 bucks for it. 1 woman owner car and her nephew inherited it when she died. The engine was stuck,but it wasn't missing a single thing,no dents,and the upholstery was perfect. I was 13 or 14. A older cousin helped me unstick it and get it running,and other than a very loose front end,it was in excellent mechanical condition with faded paint and no rust out or dents. My plan was to work summers and use my money to make it reliable and have a car to drive when I was 16 Somebody stopped by one day while I was at school and offered my father $250 for it,so he sold it and kept the money. "It's my yard,and everything in it is mine." was his excuse. It has been several years since I was 13 or 14,and I can't remember anything about the starter.


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