greg g Posted July 1, 2023 Report Share Posted July 1, 2023 There is 8 to 10 inches between the filter and the exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted July 1, 2023 Report Share Posted July 1, 2023 First, never use the plastic filters in any under hood installation. They will melt and leak. Ask me how I know. Second I mounted my glass filter directly to the carb fuel line inlet. Easy to see and service, away from the exhaust manifold heat. The fuel line gives it extra support. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 2, 2023 Report Share Posted July 2, 2023 Factory B-series Dodge truck fuel filter installation... Orientation of course is slightly off. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannuck Posted July 2, 2023 Report Share Posted July 2, 2023 This is how mine is situated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 3, 2023 Report Share Posted July 3, 2023 Not a good location for a fuel filter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted July 3, 2023 Report Share Posted July 3, 2023 (edited) 17 hours ago, Cannuck said: This is how mine is situated If you ever have vapor lock issues that filter that close to the exhaust manifold would be a prime suspect. I would also prefer not to have any fuel line connections/interruptions that close to the manifold. If any line failure occurs while the engine is running the fuel pump will be spraying the manifold with fuel....... Edited July 3, 2023 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 3, 2023 Report Share Posted July 3, 2023 In 2018 we took a trip to either a POC or WPC event somewhere near Detroit. We stopped for gas near Port Huron. As I pumped gas, a small puddle was forming on the drivers side of the car. Turned out the all metal Napa gas filter was spraying a fine mist of gas from the crimped seam holding the halves together. Swapped it out and continued with no further issues. Wondered why our normal 18 mpg has dropped to just under 15. Moral of story, don't take these things for granted. Takes quick look every other time you fill up. Glass, plastic, and metal all have failure points. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted July 3, 2023 Report Share Posted July 3, 2023 My project will have a large metal filter near the tank . Really planning ahead as my truck is in pieces but I already have the filter. Intended for a '97 F150. Minimum engine compartment lines and connections. electric pump near tank, no engine mounted pump. Hard line along the frame to the clutch housing area, along the crossmember to the rt of the engine, up the firewall to a fitting. Short flex line using Oetiker clamps, Then a hard line attached to the head with rigid standoffs all the way to the carb. Maximum exhaust avoidance, minimum length. Probably not at all necessary, but should look neat and be different that most. If I don't change my mind I'd like to drill/tap head bolts. Just a shallow drill to accept 10/32 screws for the standoffs. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted July 3, 2023 Report Share Posted July 3, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, kencombs said: My project will have a large metal filter near the tank . Really planning ahead as my truck is in pieces but I already have the filter. Intended for a '97 F150. Minimum engine compartment lines and connections. electric pump near tank, no engine mounted pump. Hard line along the frame to the clutch housing area, along the crossmember to the rt of the engine, up the firewall to a fitting. Short flex line using Oetiker clamps, Then a hard line attached to the head with rigid standoffs all the way to the carb. Maximum exhaust avoidance, minimum length. Probably not at all necessary, but should look neat and be different that most. If I don't change my mind I'd like to drill/tap head bolts. Just a shallow drill to accept 10/32 screws for the standoffs. . Sounds similar to what I run in the P15, electric pump, mechanical pump block-off plate, and single metal filter at the tank. Since I replaced the tank and all lines I don't see a need for a filter at the carb. The firewall-mounted fuel line keeps it far away from manifold heat, never had any vapor lock issues. Edited July 3, 2023 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 3, 2023 Report Share Posted July 3, 2023 I will not use regular Gate's type fuel hose anymore as It cracks sometimes as soon as two years og use. The way more costly safer fuel injection hose is all I use anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted July 3, 2023 Report Share Posted July 3, 2023 (edited) 48 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: I will not use regular Gate's type fuel hose anymore as It cracks sometimes as soon as two years og use. The way more costly safer fuel injection hose is all I use anymore. This hose on my P15 is braided 50psi, made in Amurrica, I've used this hose a bunch for a long time and never had problems with it. Is this the one you prefer? This from the Gates website: This fuel hose is recommended as the premium choice for clamped hose applications on all fuel systems, including fuel injection systems. Not designed to replace coupled hose assemblies on fuel injected engines. Approved for use with leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel fuel and gasoline blends of ethanol, methanol and ethers (up to maximum concentrations allowed by the EPA) 100% methanol or ethanol and B100 biodiesel, up to 135OC. Key Features and Benefits: • Outstanding fluoroelastomer liner resists permeation and alcohol • Outstanding oil resistant tube combats heat. • Polyester braid reinforcement increases strength • Oil, heat, ozone and abrasion resistant cover • Meets requirements of SAE 30R9 • Superior for service life over standard fuel hose Edited July 3, 2023 by Sam Buchanan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcl700 Posted July 3, 2023 Report Share Posted July 3, 2023 On 7/1/2023 at 11:30 PM, Dodgeb4ya said: Factory B-series Dodge truck fuel filter installation... Orientation of course is slightly off. Is this a male to male barb connecting the card to the filter? What size is required to make this connection? BTW I like this setup. It seems to make the most sense and seems to provide a good visual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 1/8" female pipe connection into the filter... Typical Dodge truck Ball and Ball needle and seat brass fitting.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 as a FIY for anyone using a fiber style washer/gasket/seal for these to seal up quick and easy, soak the fiber in kerosene....it is the recommended procedure. It works, this I can assure you...(this tip was found on the SU website as they use these in numerous applications) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannuck Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 Thanks guys I will move it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 Strange they would design a system with that many failure points to carry a flammable liquid above a heat source. On the glass sediment bowl I can count 11. And I might have missed a couple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 They probably should have never put the carburetors on top of engines... I guess Updrafts would be safer.? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 Or side drafts on long intake runners. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 19 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said: This hose on my P15 is braided 50psi, made in Amurrica, I've used this hose a bunch for a long time and never had problems with it. Is this the one you prefer? This from the Gates website: This fuel hose is recommended as the premium choice for clamped hose applications on all fuel systems, including fuel injection systems. Not designed to replace coupled hose assemblies on fuel injected engines. Approved for use with leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel fuel and gasoline blends of ethanol, methanol and ethers (up to maximum concentrations allowed by the EPA) 100% methanol or ethanol and B100 biodiesel, up to 135OC. Key Features and Benefits: • Outstanding fluoroelastomer liner resists permeation and alcohol • Outstanding oil resistant tube combats heat. • Polyester braid reinforcement increases strength • Oil, heat, ozone and abrasion resistant cover • Meets requirements of SAE 30R9 • Superior for service life over standard fuel hose This is the hose or equivalent I use...225lb MPI fuel injection hose. Gates # 27340. Maybe a bit over kill but will out last me and fuel systems I install it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 (edited) 23 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: This is the hose or equivalent I use...225lb MPI fuel injection hose. Gates # 27340. Maybe a bit over kill but will out last me and fuel systems I install it on. Yep, that 225 psi rating should have an adequate safety margin. That is probably the hose Gates calls out for swaged hoses in the blurb I quoted above. On most of my automotive projects (and all aviation installations) I use stainless braided hose and AN fittings, but I went simple on the P15. Edited July 4, 2023 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoMark Posted July 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 The more I thought about putting the filter in the engine compartment, or above the exhaust manifold, the more I didn't like the idea. Too much risk for my taste. So I went the safer route and mounted a NAPA metal canister filter along the frame rail. This way if it ever leaks, I won't have to worry about a fire. Thanks for all your input. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannuck Posted July 26, 2023 Report Share Posted July 26, 2023 Just an update moved filter to a much better spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted July 26, 2023 Report Share Posted July 26, 2023 I do not like the position that this fuel filter is on an angle. The issue is that when you unscrew the nut that holds the bail wire which keeps the glass bowl tight agains the metal body and gasket there is a potential for any gas to be spilled onto the manifold and also i can see a bubble or pocket of air in the glass bowl. I would prefer the glass sediment container to be mounter so that it is facing directly downwards and to help eliminate any potential spillage of gas onto the engine and eliminate any potential fire hazard. Just my 50 cents worth of safety and protection advise. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan_B Posted July 27, 2023 Report Share Posted July 27, 2023 (edited) Lots of interesting points discussed in this thread, here are a couple more: - Ignition temperature of generic gasoline is listed at 495-535F (depending upon the source, and I did not check myself), the temperature of the exhaust manifold is listed way over the place, but several sources say 400-500F, I suspect that we would generally be a few degrees short of igniting spilled fuel (especially with a low compression engine), so I would probably be more concerned about a stray ignition spark, rather than the manifold below the carb. I've also never heard about melting a plastic filter under the hood. It should obviously not be touching the engine, though. - Injector hoses are not necessary for a low pressure carburetor system. If the new hose fits tightly, it will hold even without a clamp (although, you do need one because rubber gets old and looses its useful physical properties). They do not look authentic, the OEM wire clamps don't fit, etc. I prefer to use low pressure hoses (often available at motorcycle stores). If they crack, this probably indicates that the rubber is not good, or not rated for automotive application. - Classic style bowl fuel filter should be sitting vertically, with the bowl pointing down. The bowl collects the dirt, water, and everything else you don't want going up the line. Some older filters with a metal mesh filtering element even had a drain plug at the bottom. Commercial trucks still use them, I believe. You unscrew the plug, and all the dirt, condensed water, rust, comes out. Once you see clear gas, you close the drain and carry on. - @Dodgeb4ya, you should clean your air filter ? Edited July 27, 2023 by Ivan_B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 27, 2023 Report Share Posted July 27, 2023 (edited) Why clean the filter? Why set it vertical? Doesn't matter. It's a 2-1/2 ton 1952 Dodge dump I only use a couple times a year hauling property clean up debris. It's never on the road. It is all original chassis wise and always starts and runs well. All I need with that truck. Heres's another one of my my trucks engines.... all stock carbs/ fuel filters and lines as when new and as should be. There's nothing wrong with glass bowl fuel filters over the the manifolds. Ma MoPar sold them designed that way. They work and service fast and easy and don't leak if serviced properly. Edited July 28, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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