Before I screw up my Crank Hub

[Sniper]

Just reinstall the starter, wire up the starter solenoid (clamp or bolt it to the engine to ground the mounting bracket), hook the up the battery and use the danged starter to loosen the bolt, you'd be done now if you had done that.

[Bryan]

1 hour ago, Andydodge said:

I would also suggest removing the short extension between the socket and bar, attach the bar directly onto the socket, one less thing to move..........also tap the wood wedge into the frame/pulley a little bit more........whisper sweet nothings to the bolt..........or discuss its parentage......

Did the latter..my brother would say it needs a blood sacrifice.   Won't work until you accidently cut yourself. ?

 

[Bryan]

2 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Just reinstall the starter, wire up the starter solenoid (clamp or bolt it to the engine to ground the mounting bracket), hook the up the battery and use the danged starter to loosen the bolt, you'd be done now if you had done that.

To my 30 year old battery? Was planning on getting one when I got closer to installing the engine.

[Sniper]

Well, if you have a 12v battery you can borrow those work.  In fact my original 6v starter is what is spinning over my 12v converted engine.

Edited December 17, 2021 by Sniper

[Dodgeb4ya]

Watch the damper ring rubber break loose....

Pull the pan wedge a block of 2x4 crankshaft to block ...unscrew the bolt.

Otherwise get on craigslist...

Look for a mobile mechanic to drop by and remove the bolt with a impact gun..

Or buy yourself a Milwaukee 1/2"  battery powered M18 impact gun.

Give yourself a Christmas gift you can use...a lot.

Make your hobby projects easier with less stress.

Working on old cars causes the need of buying more tools.

A good thing.

Edited December 19, 2021 by Dodgeb4ya
Spelling error

[Bryan]

Going to have to stop before I mess something up.  I thought about doing the starter solution, but with the motor moving I thought it might walk up the breaker bar on the frame.  I took the motor mount off. The bolts hole on the bottom mount matches the top exactly, so I reinstalled the plate direct metal to metal. Then tried the wedge. It bent an extension over. Picture doesn't show it as well, but it was bending over, not just slipping. Tried again without the extension, and the motor started shifting on its mount.  

[Merle Coggins]

That bugger is in there tight. I'd be afraid of damaging the damper with that arrangement. I'd be finding a way to wedge the flywheel instead. Also, you may want to invest in a 3/4" breaker bar to work with that socket, rather than reducing it down to 1/2" drive. Then you can put a long cheater pipe on it for more leverage. 

[Sniper]

lol, Popeye opens up the can of spinach.

 

 

[Sam Buchanan]

Beg, borrow or rent a big daddy impact driver (at least 1/2" drive). Be sure you use an impact socket. I have this Harbor Freight driver (1050 ft/lb):

 

Edited December 17, 2021 by Sam Buchanan

[joecoozie]

The

 

 

Edited December 18, 2021 by joecoozie
none

[Bryan]

2 hours ago, Sniper said:

lol, Popeye opens up the can of spinach.

 

 

Yeah for a minute I thought it was moving. Extension 1/2 drive was bending.

[Bryan]

2 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

Beg, borrow or rent a big daddy impact driver (at least 1/2" drive). Be sure you use an impact socket. I have this Harbor Freight driver (1050 ft/lb):

 

Credit card time...I already have Dewalt 20V batteries. Some weird reason there are two with the same name, one has less torque. Only the model #s are different.

[Bryan]

42 minutes ago, joecoozie said:

The engine is going to shift because now, without the front mount, it is just floating and nothing is holding it to the frame. Even though you bolted the mount bracket back onto the engine that is still a pivot point

 

 

 

No, I fixed that. I took the rubber mount out and bolted the front piece to the engine front plate. Something is slipping between the engine and the front piece attached to it. Worried me so I stopped, especially after bending a 1/2" drive.

[Young Ed]

38 minutes ago, Bryan said:

Credit card time...I already have Dewalt 20V batteries. Some weird reason there are two with the same name, one has less torque. Only the model #s are different.

Not sure of that's the exact model I have but I have one and it's awesome. Busted a lot of stuff loose at the junkyard. 

[Dartgame]

Drop the oil pan. shove a chunk of 2 x 4 between the block and the crank throw nearest the front of the engine and then use your breaker bar.

[Pete]

15 hours ago, Dartgame said:

Drop the oil pan. shove a chunk of 2 x 4 between the block and the crank throw nearest the front of the engine and then use your breaker bar.

That's exactly what I did. Worked like a charm. Make sure you use a piece of soft wood.

 

[Bryan]

2 hours ago, Pete said:

That's exactly what I did. Worked like a charm. Make sure you use a piece of soft wood.

 

Might try that after I get the valves out. I'm going to drain the oil anyway. Could drop the pan. Everything else is done.  Was afraid I'd screw my flywheel up with the starter method, especially since it is welded on the Fluid Drive.  Plus since the motor is shifting was afraid it would move up when I hit the starter. Really appreciate Sniper's suggestion but I'm cautious since I started bending the 1/2" drive and the mount on the front of the engine acted like it was shifting. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[Bryan]

When I do that I'll probably take off the 2 bolts I used to hold the damper I was wedging a wood piece against. Quickly found I couldn't heat the bolt up with my torch with the damper on.  Smelling rubber and the edge started bubbling. Going to replace it anyway..someone in the past beat it up pretty bad.  I'll heat it up when I do it again. Just needed to take a break and do something I could make progress on. Like the valves.

[keithb7]

I too have a 1/2" electric impact. Works great for these bolts. Tranny output park brake drum nut too.  

 

There are many ways to skin a cat they say. Heat cycles often work. Impacts work. Breaker bars often shear things in half. Hence the accurate title of the tool! Have you got a friend to help? Heat up the nut best you can. Even with propane if that's all you have.  Might help a bit. Give it lots of time to get hot. Get your breaker bar back on there. Get a friend with a hammer. Try repeated tapping the end of the breaker bar at the nut while applying turning pressure? Try going clockwise and counter clockwise.  Sometime a good knock with a cold chisel and a hammer might break the bond.

 

I love pouring 220V through a buzz box into a stubborn fastener. They often surrender immediately. 

Looks like you have an impact driver on the way. Hopefully that'll do it.

Edited December 19, 2021 by keithb7

[Dodgeb4ya]

You don't need heat on that crank bolt..

Use the right tools and procedures.

[Plymouthy Adams]

ensure the tools you are using are of a quality to withstand the work for which you will be doing.   Many offshore made/marketed tools do not have the 'guts' for the often-necessary grunt exerted.

[Sniper]

2 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

You don't need heat on that crank bolt..

Use the right tools and procedures.

You might if someone used the wrong Loctite on it.

[Bryan]

18 minutes ago, Sniper said:

You might if someone used the wrong Loctite on it.

Before I put the damper on it to wedge, at one point I heated it several minutes and it was turning grey later. Wish I had oxy-acet.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I wish I could be there to help you.

I would have that nut off in 20 minutes with NO heat.

[Plymouthy Adams]

2 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I wish I could be there to help you.

I would have that nut off in 20 minutes with NO heat.

 

with the first 10 minutes jacking your jaws being friendly while drinking that first cup of hot coffee.....!!!!