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Pete

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Everything posted by Pete

  1. The last batteries I bought from both NAPA and O'Reilly's were manufactured by East Penn. Pete
  2. Yep, that's what I use in my oil bath air cleaners. Works well. If you drive in winter conditions you may want to use a lighter oil, then switch back to 50wt for the summer. Pete
  3. It appears to be bone stock: https://www.mecum.com/lots/CA0822-520444/1936-dodge-d2-business-coupe/ Pete
  4. I agree with Wallytoo. I've had two Optima 6 volt batteries. Both went bad. One because a mechanic hooked the battery cables backwards, another because the battery was apparently drained and charged too many times. In the second case I followed the charging instructions on the Optima website to bring it back, but it didn't matter. These situations have never happened with a lead acid battery in my experience, so I'm done with Optimas after two expensive lessons. I've read that their quality really suffered when they moved production to Mexico. Pete
  5. I've used Vic's a number of times, and have spoken to them on the phone. They are very helpful and knowledgeable. My experience has been positive. I would use them again. I have not however bought interior parts from them. Pete
  6. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/plymouth/road-king/2601733.html
  7. I had an issue convincing Danielle that I did indeed own my car because the North Carolina DMV assigned a new "VIN" to it. She is a real stickler, but it all worked out and I got the build info. Pete
  8. I used SEM paint on my QuietRide ABS firewall cover and it's held up well. No complaints. Pete
  9. I finally got my 1939 Plymouth out for a decently long ride. I had a long painful time getting new window glass for my rear vent windows. Lots of problems getting the tinted glass and rubber that wasn't a horrible fit. Didn't want to take it out without the glass in except for short local drives on sunny days. I started that job last January and just finished on Friday. Yesterday I drove it to a car club meeting. All back roads in Vermont. Very hilly and lots of curves. About 2 hours each way. The temperature was in the mid-90s. The temp gauge went up and down like it's supposed to, and never went over 190 degrees even on the long uphills in third gear. The car drove like a dream. I'm a happy boy. One of the club members drove his 1931 Chrysler dual cowl phaeton. A beautiful car. Pete
  10. Here are the details: "Harry Truman's Excellent Adventure: The True Story of a Great American Road Trip" On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Harry-Trumans-Excellent-Adventure-Matthew/dp/1569767076/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1656332399&sr=8-1 Pete
  11. Dan, Did you try American Honeycomb Radiator in Bowdoin? He worked on the radiator from my 1939 Plymouth at a fair price. American Honeycomb Radiator 207-666-8111 https://www.oldusedradiators.com/ 885 Litchfield Road, Bowdoin, ME 04287 Pete
  12. Pete

    MPG

    A few years ago I took my '38 Dodge pickup on an old car tour. It was in upstate NY and was 700+ miles in length. The truck has the original 218 engine. We pretty much kept the max speed to about 45 MPH as a Model A was leading the group. My mileage on that tour was a bit over 20 MPG. Pete
  13. Could the engine be hydrolocking from fuel in the cylinders? Pete
  14. I had the fulcrum pin "walk out" on me once. Shot the pump spring into the pan. Left me stranded. It was a China-made fairly new pump. Make sure the pin in staked on both sides. I now run an electric pump in addition to the mechanical pump on both my old Mopars. Pete
  15. I have one in my 1939. It works great. No problems.
  16. I ran into a similar problem on my '39 Plymouth. The idle mixture screw did not change the idle. In addition it seemed like the engine was running a bit rich. After a lot of trial and error I found the problem. Someone had replaced the idle mixture screw with the wrong part. They used a mixture screw from a 1 1/4 inch bore B&B carb in my 1 1/2 inch bore B&B carb. The screw did not reach in far enough to the port. It was like screwing it all the way in, but in effect it was like it was already a number of turns out. Replaced it with the correct mixture screw and all it well. Pete
  17. I've used this tool to remove the main idle tube on a number of BB carbs. Some of those tubes needed extra cleaning even after the fuel bowl was run through an ultrasonic cleaner a couple of times with the tube installed and the plug removed. It takes only a few turns to get the threads on the tool to engage the threads on the tube to pull it out. Be very careful as the threads on the tube are very delicate. Use the "handle" on the tool to gently push the tube back in until it seats. Carbs ran well after removing/installing the tube using this tool. I've reused the tubes as replacements don't appear to be available. Pete
  18. I know that Plymouths used distributors with vacuum advance as far back as 1936. Probably earlier. First thing to check on your carbs is the bore size. BB carbs came is several different bores. My '38 truck has a 1.25 inch bore and my '39 Plymouth has a 1.50 inch bore. The truck is a 25 inch Canadian engine and the Plymouth has a 23 inch engine. Distributors without vacuum advance were usually used on bigger trucks. Pete
  19. Adding my thanks as well. Whenever I start I new project on my Mopars this is the first place I come for info. You folks are great! Pete
  20. Pete

    Tube tires

    This is out of your budget, but it works for me. On my '39 Plymouth I'm running 600/16 Coker bias ply look radials with tubes. This summer I did two back-to-back tours of about 1,800 miles. Speed occasionally a bit over 60. It worked very well. No worries. Pete
  21. That's exactly what I did. Worked like a charm. Make sure you use a piece of soft wood.
  22. Thanks for all the replies. I think I’ll look for a replacement trans. The truck has its original 1938 engine and three speed trans. It’s been in the family since the 1970s and I’ve come to like it for its character and quirks, including double clutching. I think its non-syncro crash box is the last year before Dodge put the newer tranny in with its sychro in second and third gears. Any dodge trucks from 1937 and 1938 with the three speed trans from half to one ton would have this gearbox. It's a lot of fun driving it on the unpaved back roads here in rural Vermont. Pete
  23. I’m looking for advice on a problem with my transmission. I found a crack on my engine’s front cover plate right by the front engine mount, so I pulled the engine to replace that part. As long as I pulled the engine, I decided to freshen it up and pulled the trans too to address some fluid leaks. I discovered one of the four “ears” through which the trans is mounted to the bellhousing is broken off. See pics. There was no bolt or stud for that mounting point, so the trans has been supported by the other three bolts for a very long time. The trans shifts well and there hasn’t seemed to be any alignment problems. The engine is a 1938 Canadian built long block. The trans is a three speed non-synchromesh “crash box” which appears to be original to the vehicle. Double clutching anyone? So, I need a plan forward. Should I just use the three bolts as it was when I pulled it? That doesn’t sit well with me. The chances of finding a good case probably aren’t too good, so I’m probably looking at getting another trans. If I go that route I’ll check my Hollander to see what fits without requiring too much alteration. Please let me know your thoughts. Pete
  24. I've had mostly good luck with Coker. I'm running their bias ply look radials on my '39 Plymouth. On my first set I had a bubble appear under a whitewall after a few hundred miles. Coker replaced it for free and paid shipping both ways. I recently bought 2 more tires from them. My mechanic found one was out-of-round when he tried to mount them. Coker again replaced it for free and paid shipping both ways. I'm happy with the ride and their service, but there have been some quality issues that they made right. Pete
  25. I've had my '39 Plymouth in a number of parades. They usually go at walking pace with a lot of stops for groups to do their things for the spectators. Not good for an 80+ year old car in 90 degree weather. Now my local car club insists we go first in the parade. It has worked a lot better. Peter
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