Generator gave up the ghost, alternator suggestions?

[Sean Jackson]

Hey all:

 

My generator appears to have bit the dust yesterday. First I checked the VR and cleaned the points to no avail. Then I tried the test of grounding the field terminal on the gen. while running/revving and watching for response on the ammeter- absolutely nothing but a tiny, tiny needle movement to the right when the VR clicked a little above idle where it normally does. Maybe it’s a simple fix, but in the meantime to get it back on the road I’d like to put in a 6V alternator. 
 

The car is a ‘48 Windsor. Can anyone recommend a good alternator that’ll be as close to a drop-in replacement as possible? It doesn’t have to be one of the stock-appearance ones since I’ll be fixing the original genny and just need something to keep the car on the road. 
I believe most the units I’ve seen are internally regulated and the original VR can be bypassed, is that correct?
Other than that, what else goes into the conversion?

 

Thanks,

Sean 

Edited July 30, 2021 by Sean Jackson

[Frank Gooz]

Sean,

I had bought an alternator for 1950 Dodge. 6 volt for positive ground system, one wire. The instruction said to run the one wire to my amp/volt meter then back to the battery.

I have not put it in yet as I am finding other things that need touching up first, Not to many changes at one time.

Good luck

Frank

[joecoozie]

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=541

[plymouthcranbrook]

I just did a quick Google search and it appears there are several choices available. Depends on what you want to spend I guess since you are just looking for a temporary solution.

[Sam Buchanan]

2 hours ago, Sean Jackson said:

Hey all:

 

My generator appears to have bit the dust yesterday. First I checked the VR and cleaned the points to no avail. Then I tried the test of grounding the field terminal on the gen. while running/revving and watching for response on the ammeter- absolutely nothing but a tiny, tiny needle movement to the right when the VR clicked a little above idle where it normally does. Maybe it’s a simple fix, but in the meantime to get it back on the road I’d like to put in a 6V alternator. 
 

The car is a ‘48 Windsor. Can anyone recommend a good alternator that’ll be as close to a drop-in replacement as possible? It doesn’t have to be one of the stock-appearance ones since I’ll be fixing the original genny and just need something to keep the car on the road. 
I believe most the units I’ve seen are internally regulated and the original VR can be bypassed, is that correct?
Other than that, what else goes into the conversion?

 

Thanks,

Sean 

 

I installed a 6v Howard Enterprises alternator in my P15 and it has been flawless.

 

https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

 

The price is very reasonable since they don't charge extra for shipping. It is a one-wire, internally regulated alternator so you can either remove the regulator or leave it in place as a terminal connection. Just one connection to the battery terminal or lead on the regulator is all that is required. I removed the regulator since I never intend to return to the generator and installed a 60a fuse in its place. I fabbed my own bracket but Howard's universal bracket set will save you some time.

 

Edited July 30, 2021 by Sam Buchanan

[chrysler1941]

One wire alternators have parasitic drain caused by diodes unlike the three wire models, it's Sense connection is directly connected to Battery terminal.

Remember to keep battery charger/tender connected to battery when not driven for longer period..

[bamfordsgarage]

2 hours ago, Sean Jackson said:

My generator appears to have bit the dust yesterday ... I’ll be fixing the original genny and just need something to keep the car on the road. 

 

It wouldn't take a competent auto-electric shop long to repair your generator.

 

I'll bet you could have it fixed and back on the car in less time than it takes to: figure out what 6-vt alternator to use; find it; buy it; 'drop it in' (as if?); and sort out the wiring.

 

How much driving are you going to do while the generator is in the shop?  A fully charged battery will start the car multiple times and run your ignition, signals, brake lights and so on for hundreds of miles. If you need to use the head and tail lights in a pinch, they will do OK... dimmer than usual and your spark intensity will be down, but the vehicle will be functional. Top up the charge every night and you're set.

 

Maybe this is the time to replace your old battery with a shiny new one using some of the money you saved by not buying an alternator. Your old battery can live in the trunk for the time being with a pair of booster cables 'just in case'.

[wagoneer]

Look at powermaster powergen alternators as one option, or one I'm looking at that doesn't have the issue @chrysler1941 describes of parasitic use is from gener-nator. He'll take your current generator, gut it, and basically build an alternator inside of it. It's externally regulated and uses existing wiring and external regulator, so it looks completely stock and compatible. 2x price of others, but worth it avoiding hassle of fitting ones that aren't made for our cars/trucks. Outputs  50 amps.

[Sniper]

1 hour ago, chrysler1941 said:

One wire alternators have parasitic drain caused by diodes unlike the three wire models, it's Sense connection is directly connected to Battery terminal.

Remember to keep battery charger/tender connected to battery when not driven for longer period..

Simple fix, put the sense wire through a relay that is only energized when the key is in run.

[T120]

With the old vehicles, ( the wiring, battery,generator and regulator in good shape),upon parking the vehicle and not planning on using it for a while - take a minute and disconnect the battery ground.?

 

[Sam Buchanan]

Maybe I'm just lucky but I've never seen a hint of parasitic drain with my single-wire 6v alternator and I never use a charger. Even in the winter, pull the choke, hit the starter and it fires almost instantly (I do have an electric fuel pump, however). I suspect one reason this is the case is that the alternator keeps the battery fully charged even at idle. I've had the P15 sit undriven for three weeks or so and have never been able to tell the starter was lagging.

 

If someone wants to retain the generator, that is fine. But some of the above comments about drain, wiring complexity, difficulty in sourcing, etc, just haven't been applicable in my installation. The alternator has been completely transparent in operation, headlights always bright, starter spinning quickly.....and the ancient regulator (tried twice to get a new one that worked...) in the scrap box.

 

It's good to have options.  ?

Edited July 30, 2021 by Sam Buchanan

[tom'sB2B]

This may or may not help

[Sam Buchanan]

1 hour ago, tom'sB2B said:

This may or may not help

 

That wiring scheme will certainly work even though there is a redundant connection. The wire from the alternator directly to the battery isn't necessary since the same connection is being made at the 'Bat' junction on the old regulator. The regulator can be removed if those three wires are simply tied together.

[tom'sB2B]

I purchased mine from quality power auto as well https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/

Very happy with it so far.

Make sure you buy the bracket to go with it and get the correct pulley size.

The above electrical schematic came with it.

 

[maok]

1 hour ago, tom'sB2B said:

I purchased mine from quality power auto as well https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/

Very happy with it so far.

Make sure you buy the bracket to go with it and get the correct pulley size.

The above electrical schematic came with it.

 

 

I have the same.

 

If you want it to be as easiest as possible conversion, you cant go pass this. And very affordable.

[JBNeal]

additional information - Gener-Nator

[chrysler1941]

16 hours ago, Sniper said:

Simple fix, put the sense wire through a relay that is only energized when the key is in run.

no sense wire on a one wire alternator

[Sniper]

7 hours ago, chrysler1941 said:

no sense wire on a one wire alternator

Might be internal, but there is one.