MarcDeSoto Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 I had already installed the master cylinder and pedals on my 48 DeSoto. Then I got the push rod and end bolt to connect the MC to the pedal. But I couldn't get the rubber boot over the slot in the push rod. So I had to remove the MC and the pedals and put the MC into a vise where I could finally install the boot on the push rod. To do this, I had to remove the boot and the collar from the MC, but then the spring pushed the MC piston out and I can't get it back in long enough to the screw the holding collar on. I guess I need to put the MC in a vise and clamp the MC piston down, so I screw the two bolts in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 A little silgyde lube...a dull spring hook tool....hook the round rubber ring of the push rod boot. Pull it over the m/cyl. push rod groove. That's how I do them installed in the car. Did a 41 Packard a month ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted February 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Thanks for the tip. I did use lube and a screwdriver, but couldn't get it. One thing I learned today is I can't finish this car with all the work it needs at my age on my back. I'm going to have to lift it up high enough to work under it while in a sitting position. They have videos on how to make wooden car stands. Of course, jacking the car that high will include making wood lifts so I can jack the car higher than my floor jacks will go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Or you could just build a monster gantry crane and lift the car up to put the blocks under it. Not like I know anyone that built a monster gantry crane 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 I use 6 ton jackstands as high as I can get them when I a have a lot of work to do. Still on my back but much easier to get in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Cheap jack stands for cheap cars?? Only? My life is not cheap to me, others? How to you safely even get the vehicle up on those? DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 2 minutes ago, DJ194950 said: Cheap jack stands for cheap cars?? Only? My life is not cheap to me, others? How to you safely even get the vehicle up on those? DJ Not cheap stands. Very heavy duty strong stands that once had my car on them for two years. As far as raising it, good floor jack and go slowly and carefully. Like we all should with any task like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 No offense intended! Just not my cup of tea. A use tall jack (metal) stands that takes a two step setup, up on lower metal jack stands and then using solid blocks under lift points to jack higher to get the car way up. It is ( slow way) a pain, but the only way this old decrepit body can get under the car with a creeper. My problem I know, but I do not wish to quit as long as I can somehow do the work myself. If if it satisfies you, no one else has to comfortable with this! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel Backs Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 4 Twelve ton jack stands would sound better than the above "car Jenga" set up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted February 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 I have 12 ton jack stands, but they don't go high enough. Those wood two by fours are very strong are safer than jack stands. A 3000 lb. car can't break them. Yes you have to make jack extenders with 4 X 4 or 6 X 6" lumber to jack the car that high and you have to go slowly inch by inch raising the rear, then the front until you get the height you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel Backs Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 Check out max jax which are made in California. I had a friend in CO who was crushed by a car and have been somewhat paranoid when getting under a vehicle ever since. ALWAYS try to rock the car which has been lifted before getting under. If there is any lateral motion, rethink your lifting method and do not climb underneath! The guy in the video even mentioned that his method was sketchy with the 2x4 stands, so I would believe him! With the price of lumber these days it would probably be more economical to buy approved safety equipment MADE IN THE USA. 25 years on the FD has taught me that overkill is better than getting killed! Y'all keep safe M 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) No offense taken DJ. I suspect none of us want to have a car on our chest so I bet all of us who do this do our best to make sure that we are as safe as we can be. The days of a milk crate or a stack of wheels and tires are far in the past. Edited February 3, 2021 by plymouthcranbrook 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) Does anyone here own the scissor lift type. It sits on your floor. You drive over it, adjust the lift arms out to the frame. Then hydraulically lift the car up to a max of about 4-5 feet? Costco sells them up here for about $2200 US funds. I am tempted but it really hinders access to the center under side of the car. However it would work in my garage with limited ceiling space. This one has a 6,000 lb capacity. Should work for all wheel, brake and suspension work. Easy vehicle waxing and washing at a comfortable work height. Engine oil changes. Diff oil. Inspections. Etc. 110V hydraulic pump. Mechanical locks in place. Can't fall and squash you. I could use this for a lot of work. It's not perfect however better than jack stands and laying on the floor. Could be rolled outside too for driveway work. A bonus. Edited February 3, 2021 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 Maybe a MaxJax would be better...depending on concrete etc... https://www.maxjax.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAjeSABhAPEiwAqfxURWZKcV0pq2Dz1OPfnEwMaLlRCp2oDHgy78qRz6gti4JzWKD8crzHNBoCKksQAvD_BwE 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 Depending on the garage door height, they make a drive on lift with casters so you can roll it outside for full height. About the same price as the scissor lift. Pay special attention to the delivery requirements on any lift, most require a forklift or similar for YOU to unload from the delivery truck, or you get a trailer and go to the freight yard and they will put it on your trailer. Then you can use the overkill gantry crane to unload it from the trailer, lol. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintage6t Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 I have very limited headroom in my shop space so no possibility for a full height lift. I've found a kwik-lift to be a nice compromise between Jack stands and a full lift. I've had one for years. You can typically find them used for $400-$800. https://www.kwik-lift.com 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted February 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 Kwik lift has a couple of problems for me. First my car doesn't run so I can't drive it on. Two, it doesn't lift high enough to let me work from a sitting position. I like the MaxJax if I could find a used one for about 1K. So I think I'm going to jack up the car gradually like this. It's already 2 feet high on jack stands. Then to go about 2 feet higher, I will create a platform under one corner of the car using cinder blocks placed like you are building a wall, the strong way. Then putting a wood platform on the blocks and bottle jacking up the car using the rear axle on the rear end, and the frame under the cowl on the front end. This would be done gradually at each corner of the car going up just enough to get another two by four square under each tire. Instead of using a big floor jack up in the air, I would use a heavy duty bottle jack with a custom made wooden saddle to fit on the rear axle, and likewise another saddle to fit the front end frame rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintage6t Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said: Kwik lift has a couple of problems for me. First my car doesn't run so I can't drive it on. Two, it doesn't lift high enough to let me work from a sitting position. I like the MaxJax if I could find a used one for about 1K. So I think I'm going to jack up the car gradually like this. It's already 2 feet high on jack stands. Then to go about 2 feet higher, I will create a platform under one corner of the car using cinder blocks placed like you are building a wall, the strong way. Then putting a wood platform on the blocks and bottle jacking up the car using the rear axle on the rear end, and the frame under the cowl on the front end. This would be done gradually at each corner of the car going up just enough to get another two by four square under each tire. Instead of using a big floor jack up in the air, I would use a heavy duty bottle jack with a custom made wooden saddle to fit on the rear axle, and likewise another saddle to fit the front end frame rail. Not to belabor the point, just some additionally info. Like I said the kiwi-lift is a compromise but very functional. 1. I use a cheapo 110v winch at the head of the kiwi-lift to load my non-runners on it. 2. Kiwi-lift has accessory bridges that run across the two ramps. The bridges are designed for jack stands to get extra working height or to work with the wheels removed. My current project is on the lift with 2 ton stands on the 4 corners. There is room to sit up although admittedly a bit tight on head room. 3. Careful with those cylinder blocks. Strong way or not I think I recall seeing pictures of them pulverized from the load of a car and suddenly too. Edited February 3, 2021 by vintage6t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooljunkie Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 Never will i ever use a cinder block in any direction. Wood cribs are very strong, especially if glued and screwed. Two sets, for lifting in 2 stages.If i was in a similar situation, floor jack would need an extension built to replace swivel cup. I bought a 4 post hoist, with the wheel kit. i modified my ceiling for the extra height, 13-1/2 feet was what i ended up with,plenty for working under almost anything. before i raised the roof,i sat on a roller seat to do the work. It wasnt ideal, but good enough to get the work done. Safety is more important than the work itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 19 hours ago, Marcel Backs said: Check out max jax which are made in California. I had a friend in CO who was crushed by a car and have been somewhat paranoid when getting under a vehicle ever since. ALWAYS try to rock the car which has been lifted before getting under. If there is any lateral motion, rethink your lifting method and do not climb underneath! The guy in the video even mentioned that his method was sketchy with the 2x4 stands, so I would believe him! With the price of lumber these days it would probably be more economical to buy approved safety equipment MADE IN THE USA. 25 years on the FD has taught me that overkill is better than getting killed! Y'all keep safe M That stack of 2x4's didn't look safe to me, either. Wood sometimes has crooked grain patterns, resulting in danger of splitting crossways. If one of those pieces on which the wheels are sitting broke, the whole thing could easily come down. I sure wouldn't get under a car blocked up like that. (Hardwood 4x4's? Maybe.) I've seen advertisements for scissor lifts like the one Keith posted before, and while the price is attractive, I don't think I'd feel comfortable getting under that. I imagine there are lock-pins to put in so that there is no danger from the cylinders leaking down or giving out with a burst seal or something, but it just doesn't look terribly stable to me. Great for working on the wheels, but going underneath and jerking around on stuff? Not for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LrudyD Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Here’s what you do if you want to build it out of wood! I had 3000lb jack stands and every time I got under I felt uneasy, so being in the construction industry, I got a bunch of scrap 2x6’s, glued and nailed these up. Super solid and now I don’t feel any anxiety getting under the car! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel Backs Posted February 8, 2021 Report Share Posted February 8, 2021 I would also feel quite confident with this set up for cribbing the vehicle solidly. Thanks for posting your " Wyl E Coyote free" method for lifting the heavy old sleds! M 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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