Leaf spring covers - stay or go?

[Bob Riding]

I'm working on the rear suspension and would like to keep the leaf spring covers, if possible. It also saves a boatload of work, disassembling , cleaning, repainting etc., if it's not really necessary. I'm replacing the silent block and bushings. The covers look to be in good shape - it's a CA car so minimal rust, but I've heard that over time the covers could trap water and cause squeaks, corrosion and other bad things. Thoughts?

[kencombs]

Dad had a 49, second series, Plymouth with those.  As I recall it had holes in the bottom of the cover that were used to inject grease.  Just hold the grease gun tightly against the cover and pull the trigger.  When it oozed out, the spring was protected from water intrusion and the leaves slid upon each other smoothly.

 

IF  ,  big if,  they have been kept greased the leaves should be in good condition inside.

[Bob Riding]

44 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Dad had a 49, second series, Plymouth with those.  As I recall it had holes in the bottom of the cover that were used to inject grease.  Just hold the grease gun tightly against the cover and pull the trigger.  When it oozed out, the spring was protected from water intrusion and the leaves slid upon each other smoothly.

 

IF  ,  big if,  they have been kept greased the leaves should be in good condition inside.

Makes sense. I wonder if they also function as spring clamps? I don't see any, unless they are underneath.

 

[DJ194950]

Check a factory type repair manual as I know I have seen it there in my 49 or the 50 books I have. May be in the suspension area or in the lubrication specs area.

 

I would find it and post but my printer copier scanned has gone to scrap pile.  ?

 

Could use a extra $2k from the gov. but we all end up paying for it later anyway. Time and and I will get it replaced eventually.

 

DJ

[desoto1939]

Here is the spring cover lube tool the knurled bolt screws down on the top of the spring to hold the tool inplace.  On the bottom end is a zerk fitting that has a sharp point that when turned clockwise cuts into the metal spring cover. Then you attach your lube gun to the zerk fitting and shot chaisis grease into the bottom of the spring to  lube the leaves.

My 39 desoto has the original spring cover only on the left rear spring assembly but not onthe right rear. Another friend of mine who also has a 39 Desoto has the same setup.  I am assuming that either they only put the covers onthe left rear becasue of the filler pipe for the gas tank and to protect the springs if gas did overflow and then would wash away the grease. If this is the reason then I can see why there is not covers onthe right rear springs.

 

Does anyone else have the same setup?

 

You can find these on ebay for sale.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

 

 

 

Edited December 29, 2020 by desoto1939

[Bob Riding]

3 hours ago, DJ194950 said:

Check a factory type repair manual as I know I have seen it there in my 49 or the 50 books I have. May be in the suspension area or in the lubrication specs area.

 

I would find it and post but my printer copier scanned has gone to scrap pile.  ?

 

Could use a extra $2k from the gov. but we all end up paying for it later anyway. Time and and I will get it replaced eventually.

 

DJ

I found two holes on each cover- one on each side. I assume that the tool doesn't make the holes, but uses the factory locations. I will check on bBay. Thanks!

[Plymouthy Adams]

I personally removed mine as I wished to inspect them after all these years...if you do not wish to look or suspect any problems with possible cracked leaf...clean the covers and dress them up for refitting to the chassis.  Roads have improved greatly and these covers are not really necessary.....personal call as I would see it...

[desoto1939]

1 hour ago, Bob Riding said:

I found two holes on each cover- one on each side. I assume that the tool doesn't make the holes, but uses the factory locations. I will check on bBay. Thanks!

The tool makes the holes when you srew the end with the zerk fitting into the metal covering then the grease fills the opening when removed.

 

Rich Hartung

[Los_Control]

I am always looking to repurpose scrap metal. Just saying I would salvage the metal and repair my fenders if opportunity arose.

[Bob Riding]

36 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

I am always looking to repurpose scrap metal. Just saying I would salvage the metal and repair my fenders if opportunity arose.

me too. Although the covers seem to be a thinner galvanized material, pretty flexible. 

[Bob Riding]

Decided to keep the gaiters (leaf spring covers) Purchased the spring cover lube tool on eBay, like Desoto39 suggested on eBay for $10. I'm cleaning them up and will be painting them black and silver (Mopar colors). The toughest part was pressing out the silent blocks - finally found my old ball joint press and with a little fabrication, was able to press them out. Success!

[Bob Riding]

On 12/29/2020 at 7:55 PM, Bob Riding said:

Decided to keep the gaiters (leaf spring covers) Purchased the spring cover lube tool on eBay, like Desoto39 suggested on eBay for $10. I'm cleaning them up and will be painting them black and silver (Mopar colors). The toughest part was pressing out the silent blocks - finally found my old ball joint press and with a little fabrication, was able to press them out. Success!

Came out pretty good. I was able to squeeze some grease into them with my new spring cover tool. No squeaks!

[P4coupe]

They were on my 37 cpe, that I got in Washington state in 1987. One leaf was broke and made more noise than a person has a need to bare.  Took apart, had bad leaf replaced and had then re arched at spring place. Had springs punched at ends for a Teflon bushing. Very quiet and smooth riding. Glad I followed the spring rebuilding place advice.  

[Bob Riding]

3 minutes ago, P4coupe said:

They were on my 37 cpe, that I got in Washington state in 1987. One leaf was broke and made more noise than a person has a need to bare.  Took apart, had bad leaf replaced and had then re arched at spring place. Had springs punched at ends for a Teflon bushing. Very quiet and smooth riding. Glad I followed the spring rebuilding place advice.  

I assume you didn't try to reinstall? 

[P4coupe]

I assume you mean the metal covers. No I didn't. They clean right up when you take the weight off the springs and spray. 

[Marcel Backs]

Nice restoration work Bob! I am surprised someone is not reproducing that grease clamp tool.

 

[James_Douglas]

On my '49 I am using the factory spring with the covers. I was able to slip them off, take the center bolt out, clean and pain the springs and put it all back with grease. Seem fine.

 

On my 1947 I had new springs made by Eaton. Eaton tells you very specifically to NOT grease their springs as it will harm the steel. I asked more than once for the science behind how the grease harmed the steel and they never provided any data. I know Chrysler had a patent on a special steel for the springs:

 

"Amola, a fine-grained, alloy steel using in its manufacture, among
other things, a definitely controlled ratio of molybdenum, silicon and
aluminum," is reported by the Chrysler Corporation. "Not only has
the formula for this new steel been developed by Chrysler Corporation
engineers but also the method by which it is made.

 

The development of Amola steel makes available to all manufac-
turers of mechanical units a higher-quality steel at lower cost than
has heretofore been available. Its uses range from carburized gears,
through axle shafts and springs to high-carbon razor blades as little
as 5/1,000 of an inch in thickness."

 

What the difference is between the steel now used by folks like Eaton and the "Amola" steel Chrysler used I cannot day. Chrysler greased their springs, Eaton and others now say not to.

 

Who knows?  James

[Bob Riding]

2 hours ago, James_Douglas said:

On my '49 I am using the factory spring with the covers. I was able to slip them off, take the center bolt out, clean and pain the springs and put it all back with grease. Seem fine.

 

On my 1947 I had new springs made by Eaton. Eaton tells you very specifically to NOT grease their springs as it will harm the steel. I asked more than once for the science behind how the grease harmed the steel and they never provided any data. I know Chrysler had a patent on a special steel for the springs:

 

"Amola, a fine-grained, alloy steel using in its manufacture, among
other things, a definitely controlled ratio of molybdenum, silicon and
aluminum," is reported by the Chrysler Corporation. "Not only has
the formula for this new steel been developed by Chrysler Corporation
engineers but also the method by which it is made.

 

The development of Amola steel makes available to all manufac-
turers of mechanical units a higher-quality steel at lower cost than
has heretofore been available. Its uses range from carburized gears,
through axle shafts and springs to high-carbon razor blades as little
as 5/1,000 of an inch in thickness."

 

What the difference is between the steel now used by folks like Eaton and the "Amola" steel Chrysler used I cannot day. Chrysler greased their springs, Eaton and others now say not to.

 

Who knows?  James

very interesting info. Maybe a metallurgist in the group will weigh in?

[greg g]

Mine are still on and intact. Car came out of central PA so very little frame and chassis rust.  Never been serviced since I bought the car (1970) doesn't see much run in the rain time any more. No squeeksor other noises. Have had some pretty heavy loads in the trunk with no issues.

[Ulu]

I took off my covers to find the springs were dry, and worn sharp on the ends.

 

I put poly shims in the spring packs and drove them 50k+ miles like that.

 

They are not going to be reused.