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Lets see pic of your trucks


Ken_Hart

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I am thinking of 2 tone..siver /black or cream/black..

I'm with ya on the 2-tone black & silver, use kind of a spring special pattern, but with silver. is anybody decent at photoshop here? if so, can somebody try to make a photoshopped 1/2-3/4 tonner in black silver?

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current state of my truck. In 2-3 weeks the plan is to have it far enough to start and a few weeks after that take the rolling frame for a short test drive.

2011-04-10163236.jpg

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I bet your ggdad would be proud of your achievements so far. The project has certainly come a long way. Are you painting the gas tank black?

Desotodav

tank has been coated by a gas tank place inside and out and already repainted.

About a year from the day we picked it up we hope to have it running, if we're lucky road test like a few others here have done.

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Since the fuel sending unit is only 1-wire, you know what that means; Make sure there is bare metal where the unit mounts to the tank, otherwise your gauge will not work for lack of a good ground.

Hank :)

already ran a continuity check and had ZERO resistantce between the tank and the frame. Had to sand off coating and paint from both the tank and frame. Now since I got my fancy springs (thanks my DU friend and Hank for being the middle man) I can paint up the sanded areas and have good contact still!

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already ran a continuity check and had ZERO resistantce between the tank and the frame. Had to sand off coating and paint from both the tank and frame. Now since I got my fancy springs (thanks my DU friend and Hank for being the middle man) I can paint up the sanded areas and have good contact still!

Mark and other forum members,

My gas gauge is the only thing not working on my truck. My tank was powder-coated and not installed be me. Are you saying (and it only makes sense that the ground between the tank and the frame occurs where the tank mounts to the frame (duh!). In this case I would have to accomplish a ground at the tank mounts.

The original fuel sending unit is installed. Since the tank is powder-coated is there a possibility that where the fuel sending unit mounts to the tank there is no ground as well?

I'd love to not totally remove my gas tank so:

1. Establish that I have a grounded tank by determining that I have Zero Resistance.

2. If I do have zero resistance and I do not get a fuel gauge reading, then the problem could be either (1) a bad ground between the tank and the sending unit, or (2) a non-functioning fuel sending unit. In either of these two cases I will then have to remove the tank.

3. I do have a new JC Whitney 6V unit in case the original is not functioning (so hopefully I won't have any down-time waiting for a part to arrive).

Any thoughts about this guys?

Thanks,

Hank :o

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Mark and other forum members,

My gas gauge is the only thing not working on my truck. My tank was powder-coated and not installed be me. Are you saying (and it only makes sense that the ground between the tank and the frame occurs where the tank mounts to the frame (duh!). In this case I would have to accomplish a ground at the tank mounts.

The original fuel sending unit is installed. Since the tank is powder-coated is there a possibility that where the fuel sending unit mounts to the tank there is no ground as well?

I'd love to not totally remove my gas tank so:

1. Establish that I have a grounded tank by determining that I have Zero Resistance.

2. If I do have zero resistance and I do not get a fuel gauge reading, then the problem could be either (1) a bad ground between the tank and the sending unit, or (2) a non-functioning fuel sending unit. In either of these two cases I will then have to remove the tank.

3. I do have a new JC Whitney 6V unit in case the original is not functioning (so hopefully I won't have any down-time waiting for a part to arrive).

Any thoughts about this guys?

Thanks,

Hank :o

I'd run a continuity check between the gas line and the frame (easily done from the flare fitting to the frame, you might want to disconnect the gas line first to make sure you are grounding the tank and not running ground thru the fuel line, then I'd use the female threaded area for cheking) and if you've got a big reistance, remove one of the front bolts, sand down to metal on where the washers go on the tank and frame, rebolt, check for continuity and paint over again sealing in the bare metal under the washers, using the bolt/washers as the conductor. The same could go for your sending unit, altho how those turn in and tighten down, I'd think you'de have some contact going on. If not, you know what to do!

Edited by ggdad1951
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There's another way...

I added a ground stud to my sender and ran a wire from it to a trans cover bolt. Now I know my sender is grounded well and it works just fine. I just drilled a hole through the plate in an open spot, used a machine screw, with a little sealer, and a nut. Then use another nut to connect your wire.

P4270529.jpg

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Here's a motorcyclist trick for you. Most motorcycles don't have a fuel gauge so you use your odometer/trip meter to judge your fuel reserves. It takes a little practice at first to determine how far you can go on a tank of gas, but then you just reset your trip meter when you fuel up and when it approaches the max miles per tank you stop and fuel up again, resetting the trip meter again. Now our trucks don't have a trip meter, nor do they have a fuel valve with a reserve position like on a motorcycle, but it could still work with a small note book as a fuel log.

Merle

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Yeah, I keep a sticky note on my 38 coupe gauge with the mileage at the latest fill up. I only dare to go around 100 miles between fill ups cause I think the pickup tube must be way off the bottom of the tank. I have run out of gas several times and it only takes about 8 gallons till it overflows. I hate walking when it wasn't planned. Or worse...having to do this.

38arriving3.jpg

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