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41/53dodges last won the day on January 16 2015

41/53dodges had the most liked content!

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About 41/53dodges

  • Birthday 03/10/1994

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Kenosha, WI
  • My Project Cars
    53' B4B
    41' WF32


  • Location
    Kenosha, WI
  • Interests
    anything mechanical

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  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer at FNA Group

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  1. The cool part of MoPar back in this era is how much stuff interchanged. Most everything will interchange for all the 25" MoPar flatheads (except crank & rods) So that motor is similar to American Dodge 1.5-2 5 ton trucks, 35?-53 Chrysler and DeSotos, and I think most Canadian production. As for parts, check Rock Auto. You can find most everything you need with some careful digging, I order stuff for a 53' Chrysler Windsor with a 265 for my 25" motor
  2. The most common swap is a Jeep Cherokee axle, it's approx. 1" narrower than stock, same ujoint, same driveshaft length, and same lug pattern as stock. Plus there's a mind boggling number of gear ratios and lockers available if you need a little extra traction. When I did mine, I just buzzed the old perches off and grabbed some trailer perches from farm and fleet
  3. Saw that one, tried getting in contact with him a couple ways but he hasn't logged on in quite some time! Coincidentally my 265 has the same cam as him too!
  4. Hey guys, been forever since I posted but I'm looking for some info Wondering if anyone knows anything about the old Saaty Meteor injectors. I picked a pair of em up at the Jefferson swap meet a month or so ago and have been scouring the internet for info, but nobody that has worked with em seems to still be around! So, does anyone know the ins and outs of these things? I've got a good general idea, but more information is always good. Was considering putting em on my warmed up 265 in my 53' Anyway, If anyone knows anything about em I'd appreciate sharing Thanks Josh
  5. I've been running 12v on my factory 6v starter for years. Never had an issue with it, but I did tear it down to clean and lube it up a long time ago. That would be my first step. Also, check out the flywheel teeth while you've got the starter out. I've seen the starter gear wander back into the ring gear when the engine is running, you just hear this wierd "ching ching" type noise. Fun fact, they're wound to turn the same way regardless of polarity, or at least mine is.
  6. 1st thing I checked, that would be awful to find. But nope, all clean inside. Went to do battle and hose it down with marvel the other day and the darn thing wouldn't stick! So I hosed em all down anyway and let it run awhile.
  7. Hi Fran, welcome go the group! Might I ask, is there a reason you don't want to use the original fasteners? If youre concerned about dirt, I soaked mine in jars of mineral spirits to shed all the crap from the years. That said, if you really want new hardware across the board it's all SAE stuff. Head bolts are kinda special, and there's a lot of different trains of thought on them. I reused mine, some people do studs, and some go to grade 8 bolts. I'd suggest something meant to be a head bolt, hence why I reused mine. Rod bolts are unique to my knowledge, so don't lose em or their washers & nuts. Same goes for the lifter covers. Probably something else I'm forgetting too
  8. It sort of lived, but not in particular fashion. There was the Aussie 265 hemi, hardly related to ours though. Looks sort of like an AMC six with canted valves. They couldn't do the crossflow design of a normal hemi though, nor were the valves anywhere near the angle of the real hemis. That you could pull off with a stock flatty block, but bore size limits valve diameters pretty severely.
  9. Fantabulous question, let me clarify. This block was out of a 47' dump truck, PO bought it as a remanned 237, put it to work for a few years and parked it back in the 80s. Buddy bought the truck and yanked the motor with big dreams, I stripped it down, cleaned up all the rust, honed all the cylinders, ground all the valve seats. New bearings all around, 265 crank, .060 Pistons, new valves to replace the broken ones, and an edgy 1/4 cam. In short, I didn't clearance the valve stems myself. I made sure they were good and tight. But I'm subscribing to the rust theory, some marvel probably ought to do the trick, especially since it hasn't been up to operating temp since fall
  10. I actually worked on a design project like this in college, although more performance oriented. The big challenge was trying to work with the canted valves and pushrods of the hemi with the straight vertical valves of the flathead. Never did figure how to do that with an unmodified block
  11. Pretty much! I think I measured like a whopping 1/32 difference in the intake bore. Which I why I've got an Ellis intake on hand, whenever I find all the stuff to get it together.
  12. They're not a whole lot different from standard truck manifolds, but the intake is a tiny bit bigger and the exhaust is a huge 2.5" 4 bolt dump. Would be very good for a turbo... Here's a picture from when I finished the motor
  13. Heat riser flap was staked in the open position, since the spring was gone. Trucks got 2.5 ton school bus manifolds, so 2.5" straight back exhaust and a glasspack. But that does make me wonder if a mouse might have climbed up in there and built a home... Thing doesn't sound constricted when it runs on all 6, but definitely food for thought...
  14. Nope, already popped the side cover off to check! That was my first thought as well. Best I can figure, the exhaust charge from the other cylinders pressurizes the one with the stuck exhaust valve through the whole cycle, including intake. It seems to blow back and pollute the charge for #2 as well, because that cylinder goes down at the same time but maintains spark and compression. Wierd eh?
  15. Thanks for the thoughts guys, I was kinda figuring it had to do with getting damp and probably rusting up the stem. I'll have to try the marvel mystery oil, or I've got some outboard fogging oil in the garage. The big pain in the rear is that it's the exhaust valve, so it just keeps blowing back through the intake! Funny how that works...
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