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Everything posted by John-T-53

  1. Either way you will have to hone the cylinders to get the pistons to fit just right (about 0.002" clearance). If the bores are already .020" over you might have to home to .040" as cylinder wear is not usually uniform. You don't sleeve a motor unless it's a last resort. You need new pistons and probably a full rebuild if you're in that deep. Bearings, bushings, valves, crank grind, etc. The size you hone the cylinders up to is usually determined after the block is pulled and each cylinder carefully measured. Then you will know what size they will be after machining.
  2. I forget, were you going to use the right side dash opening as well?
  3. is DPETCA still a functioning item, in terms of a "club"? What are some of y'all's thoughts on combining the two sites and placing all of that knowledge on this site?
  4. El perro de Chile tenía mucha energía!
  5. Not yet, thanks for the reminder. I have yet to install a Baldwin filter as I am missing the internal parts to make the canister work with that type. Maybe next year....
  6. When assembling a motor, the lifters are the second thing that gets installed, after the cam bearings. They're in deep!
  7. Are you gonna get that redhead to come back and pose with the model now? I'd suggest it...
  8. https://www.doorhardwarecenter.com/hardware-brands/schlage/commercial-door-hardware/schlage-a-series-knobs/a-series-keyed-knobs/a-series-entrance-knobs/schlage-a53pd-tul-tulip-keyed-entrance-door-knob-set/ Your old one looks like the Schlage A series "Tulip" style knob. I just got a lockset from the site linked above this week. The A series is commercial grade, grade 2 lock. You can get in different functions, such as entrance lock, classroom lock, store room, and passage....etc. with 'C' keyway.
  9. I recommend not doing anything that would render future adjustments impossible. I doubt you could unscrew that without removing the valve (and head). You also won't be able to get it clean enough (and keep it clean) to use thread locker, while assembled and readjusting. Perhaps try unscrewing it as far as possible and wrapping a few turns with PTFE thread tape, that might help bind it up a bit.
  10. Does the center splined hub stick further out on one side?
  11. I don't recall anyone rebuilding motors on here, but could have missed that. The core you could take down to a local radiator shop and have it recored. They will replace the old V-cell core with a modern style tube and fin core....
  12. Sounds like sort of a 'jab'..... good thing I'm not on bookface.
  13. A rod knock will sound just like that....a knock, and you can sometimes feel it. Usually only makes the noise when under load. A "tick" is more likely a tappet coming out of adjustment. And will make the sound at idle and load.
  14. I replaced my original pedal with a Roberts one back in 2008, plus or minus a year. Now it has come time to replace it again due the the rubber at the lower ball studs deteriorating. It has been in regular use all these years.
  15. And a what looks like a one ton pickup and a Suburban. Not sure what that other step van is? I see an International pickup too.
  16. The old rims are usually riveted, but as long as no corrosion inside they should hold air no problem without tubes.
  17. Welcome, neighbor. This very same question was what brought me here many years ago. If you end up swapping the rear end I would try to find one from a truck of the same weight rating (1 ton). Remember that it is currently geared for optimum usage of the engine's torque/power availability, so changing to a taller gear ratio you will have less torque available. If you change it slightly, you might not notice it that much, however (such as 4:10 to 3:90).
  18. 1:87 scale, that's 'hella mini size' (in the parlance of Nor-Cal). - from a non-bookfacer....
  19. Grounding to the T5 case is fine. On mine, I utilised that little cast tab next to the reverse light switch as my ground point. Just put some grease on the connection to protect from corrosion....
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