Frame, dirty, clean, painted

[tanda62]

The corner has been turned as I have gotten my 53 B4C frame cleaned and painted.  My friend decided to have a car sandblasted and offered to have my frame done at his shop at the same time.  The mobile sandblaster actually used a dustless system with glass and it made the metal actually sparkle. After cleaning I found a cross member had some hidden rust damage so it was removed, patched and will be bolted back on. I then painted por-15 and am really happy with the results.  When I get it back to my garage I can actually start putting parts back on instead of taking them off!  

Here are some pics of the frame from dirty to clean to painted. (by the way for you sharp eyed people, some repair work was done on the frame in the past as the driver's side running board supports had the rivets removed and replace with bolts - they will be put back on later along with the cab supports and cross members you see missing in the pictures)

 

[RobertKB]

Nice job! I did exactly the same when I restored my '38 Chrysler. You have taken your truck down as far as you can and now the frame is clean you are on the more fun part of putting everything back together. I imagine every part that goes back on will have had the same treatment as the frame. It all takes time but is more than worth it in the end.

[pflaming]

The body of my '53 Suburban will be removed from it chassis this weekend. Then the chassis will get cleaned and painted similar to yours. I do not use POR 15. ACE has a product called Prep and Etch. The printing on the two products' containers is IDENTICAL with one exception, one says POR 15 the other says Prep and Etch. 

 

There is one other major difference, POR 15 is $15.00 a pint at NAPA while the ACE product is $5.00 a QUART!  An easy decision for me. 

[55 Fargo]

POR 15 is over rated in some ways.

Its a moisture cure product and it likes rough and rusty surfaces to adhere too.

It has to be topcoated or it fades right out.

If it delaminates it comes off in sheets.

I like either blasting or 3m stripper discs, acid prep, rusty metal primer and then a black topcoat and a hardener added.

Zero Rust is a good alternative and much cheaper than POR.

 

 

[pflaming]

I have wire brush cleaned my frames, then 140 grit on my DA sander where I can, then ACE Prep and Prime which is phosphoric acid based and a clear ptimer which allows me to have a primer base for the clear coat paint. I'm fully aware that this is not to professional standards but then this is a hobby, is it not? 

[kencombs]

9 minutes ago, pflaming said:

I have wire brush cleaned my frames, then 140 grit on my DA sander where I can, then ACE Prep and Prime which is phosphoric acid based and a clear ptimer which allows me to have a primer base for the clear coat paint. I'm fully aware that this is not to professional standards but then this is a hobby, is it not? 

 

10 hours ago, pflaming said:

The body of my '53 Suburban will be removed from it chassis this weekend. Then the chassis will get cleaned and painted similar to yours. I do not use POR 15. ACE has a product called Prep and Etch. The printing on the two products' containers is IDENTICAL with one exception, one says POR 15 the other says Prep and Etch. 

 

There is one other major difference, POR 15 is $15.00 a pint at NAPA while the ACE product is $5.00 a QUART!  An easy decision for me. 

I'm researching for my work on the '56PU.  I found info on Prep and Etch, which is a Kleanstrip product, but nothing on Prep and Prime.  Do you have a link to any info on that??

[pflaming]

This is what I use.  Note the time restraints. I sponge brush it on, then it must be washed off. I left it on overnight on my truck door. The "Golden"  tint is permanent. Note the fire damage on the door as opposed to the hood or rear fender. The door was open so it took the full blast of the source of the fire which was near the front tire, which blew. 

Edited April 21, 2018 by pflaming

[55 Fargo]

Thats more than likely phosphoric acid based as you mentioned.

In reality unless you drive into the sea often a good metal clean up and rust paint will keep it fine for years.

Instead of the wire cup brush try 3m stripping disks there great.

 

Edited April 22, 2018 by 55 Fargo Spitfire

[Desotodav]

I remember being at that stage recently on my 53. Keep up the good work Tanda62 

[ggdad1951]

Regardless of detractors I stand by POR15. Tough a nails and when used properly it's the best in the field IMO.

[NiftyFifty]

I had some tiny pin holes in my running boards, put tape on the top side and really lathered on Por 15...stuff is like a rock..even missed a dent, so I had to hammer it, thinking I would destroy the coating...never hurt it, hardly even see where I used the hammer.  I now use Por 15 even as a patch filler, I had some spots in the rear trunk on my 67 Monaco that needed patching and I wasn’t set up before to cut and weld in new metal, so I paint on a think coating of Por 15, then use fibreglass matt, and another heavy coat of Por and it’s way harder then the typical resin IMO.

 

I would never paint or coat a frame again with anything but, and I call BS on the sun aspect...unless it’s in direct heat of day sunlight, I see no breakdown of anything I’ve coated with it.

[Los_Control]

1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

Regardless of detractors I stand by POR15. Tough a nails and when used properly it's the best in the field IMO.

I have no actual experience with the product.

Only bad thing I have heard about it, when it is properly applied ..... seems a pain to come back later and clean a area to weld on.

Hint: Have all your welding / frame fab finished, before applying.

 

Of course it can be ground and welded and redone, just more work then paint.

[Dave72dt]

I've used the POR15 chassis product and there are several other brand products on the market that are designed for similar use and their chemical composition is similar.  Sometimes you're buying the name and sometimes the quality.  POR15 has probably done the best job of marketing it's products so it's the name more people will be familiar with.  Regardless, the prep work has to be done correctly before any application to best ensure product success.

[pflaming]

Dave true,  marketing! Similar thing to sound deadening products. Dura-max seems to have the attention there. Two unstudied conclusions I've come to are: if it is advertised in a popular car magazine or sold in an automotive parts store, the prices may be elevated.

[Eneto-55]

16 hours ago, 4mula-dlx said:

I had some tiny pin holes in my running boards, put tape on the top side and really lathered on Por 15...stuff is like a rock..even missed a dent, so I had to hammer it, thinking I would destroy the coating...never hurt it, hardly even see where I used the hammer.  I now use Por 15 even as a patch filler, I had some spots in the rear trunk on my 67 Monaco that needed patching and I wasn’t set up before to cut and weld in new metal, so I paint on a think coating of Por 15, then use fibreglass matt, and another heavy coat of Por and it’s way harder then the typical resin IMO.

 

I would never paint or coat a frame again with anything but, and I call BS on the sun aspect...unless it’s in direct heat of day sunlight, I see no breakdown of anything I’ve coated with it.

This reminds me of something I saw my grandpa do back in the 60's.  When the grain bin got a rust hole, he (brush) painted the area, then laid a piece of fabric over the hole, and painted over it again.  Wala! Sealed!  (What mouse wants to chew through paint?)

[tanda62]

Making progress with my B4C.  Installed the rear springs and axle today.  One more step closer to a running truck!

 

[Merle Coggins]

Lookin’ good... Are you trying to convert your flattie into a slant 6?

[tanda62]

That is funny!  No, the motor is just sitting on a stand in between the frame rails till I am ready to install - seemed the best place to store it while I work on some other things first.

[Merle Coggins]

I realized that after I looked closer to the picture, but it still looks like a slant flattie. LOL. 

[pflaming]

We seem to be going at  similar parcel I did not sand blast. Steam cleaned, 80 grit with da sander, rust inhibitor and three coats of rattler can paint. Exhaust pipe, and fuel and brake lines tomorrow. I can't push like I could one year ago, must pace myself. 

[tanda62]

Got the motor, clutch  and transmission installed. Took a bit of fidgeting to get the transmission to go in but with a final push on the clutch pedal and gentle shove in the rear it went in. 

I have to say reading about others experiences sure has helped me with this rebuild - thanks to the many who contribute!

 

 

[tanda62]

After cleaning many years of muck off the front axle and giving it a paint job, it is back on the truck.  Amazing how much dirt and old grease can get into the various nooks and crannies of the axle.

 

[Smoke4570]

2 hours ago, tanda62 said:

After cleaning many years of muck off the front axle and giving it a paint job, it is back on the truck.  Amazing how much dirt and old grease can get into the various nooks and crannies of the axle.

 

 

I can believe it. I've had a couple where I swear there was more crud on it than metal!

[pflaming]

My engine is now in as well. Rear brakes on Monday.

[tanda62]

Got the passenger side front brake done, waiting on a part for the drivers side.  Nice to have the rust gone!