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Posted (edited)

Since you've switched to 12v, I assume a 12 v tach.  Most of those have a 6 and 8 cyl setting, maybe even a 4 cyl setting.  Did you switch it to 6 cylinder?

Edited by Dave72dt
Posted (edited)

Shakedown #2 and all went well. I pushed it up to 70 mph for a couple of miles and still had pedal. Still getting some fumes but dieing down. I closed all the firewall holes which helped, but have no side nor rear windows so I may be getting some from  the back window, the old "station wagon effect".  Temp still at 165 and oil still at 40 #. New windows tomorrow morning.

 

Goal now is to drive up to the Sequoia Big Trees National Forest on Saturday, my 50 mile 6,000 foot climb. That is a great test, no big stress just a nice long pull. Two years ago it pulled that in high gear and had to work but never labored. 

 

To be continued. I shot some videos, see if I can get someone to help me post one.

Edited by pflaming
  • Like 1
Posted

Ever checked the whole exhaust system after the fire? May have a leak.

 

Got new window seal and all associated door seal and associated? Fire is not friendly with any of these.

 

Glad to hear that it goes good again!!

 

Best of luck on your future travels!  :D

 

DJ

Posted

Progress, fumes are down the canary did not die!. Rear window is in, put in backwards so they will have to change it, but looks very nice. Windows and tires on vehicles are like shiny shoes  and clean glasses on a wardrobe. Little things: Had a soldering challenge, some time ago Plymouthy told me about the 'warning smoke' that is in the wire, if one sees the smoke the wire is too hot. My parts man informed me I needed rosin core solder. He then also taught me that the wire is actually a tube and that the rosin is in the tube so when I put the solder away, be sure to crimp the end or the rosin will slowly evaporate and the solder will be junk.  LITTLE THINGS! Where are TIm and Don when I NEED them! 

 

Whatever, will head up the hill tomorrow morning early. Should not be a problem but then that is why the shakedown. Round trip is 90 miles, elevation change in 35 miles is 400' to 6200'. It's a great drive and a valid test. Will take pictures and post tomorrow evening.

 

(To be continued)

Posted

How does one put a flat window in backwards? I've never heard that rosin solder evaporating bit and I never crimp my solder and it still works months or years later.

Posted

They have the seal in backwards, did the same on the windshield in 2012.

Paul???? You are getting lazy in your old age.  :)  Putting a rear window in is a half hour job at most. Even the curved ones are not that bad when you have them prepped properly. With all the stuff you have tackled on your own I can't believe you didn't do at least this one yourself. Putting the glass in one of these trucks yourself should be a mandatory part of the Pilothouse experience.

Shame on you...........and I bet you left the old WDT in place too. Tim must let anyone in to that BBQ.

 

Jeff ;)

Posted (edited)

Jeff, everyone in town wanted $50 for the glass, and he would install for $15.00 more so he can install all my rear windows. He will correct the seal next week.  Door windows remain, need to pull the regulators, clean, and lube first.

 

But what I did do that was not smart, was that while doing some light torch work with a small Berns O Matic torch, I did a very short run with the flame accross my wrist!  I immediately went for the axle grease but found the oil can first and I rubbed that on, then to the house for some Neosporn [sic] and got it under control. Those veins are very close to the surface, had that gone through, it would have required a tournaquet and a visit to the E room.  As it is, I just got a very good 'sun tan' , a bit tender today but all is well.

Edited by pflaming
Posted

I use acid core solder as it cleans the parts to be soldered. I always pinch off the end.

 

You should use rosin core solder for electrical work.

 

I've never pinched off the end of any roll of solder, rosin or acid core, and never noticed the flux missing even years later.

  • Like 1
Posted

Todd, I think Adams and Don C are messing with my mind!  I gotta be very careful with those two, even when you start to hate them, you just got to "love" em (figuratively speaking, being from California, that was not a good choice of words with those two).

Posted (edited)

flux does not usually go missing..it will usually dry out a bit...it is good to learn to pinch or seal the end with the heat..while not so critical in car work..in what was once my line of work in electronic warfare component repair..it was a required necessity to perform this act..you could get written up..reason..cross contamination form other thing on the bench..yeah yeah..but regulation if written are to be followed..

 

the trend now is getting away from the RMA solder (rosin mildly activated) and active fluxes of all sorts..but as most of these older cars are not subject to tin whiskers shorts.....(new technology in car electronics is by the way)  the use of the old standby in car repair of this vintage is more than good..

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

Jeff, everyone in town wanted $50 for the glass, and he would install for $15.00 more so he can install all my rear windows. He will correct the seal next week.  Door windows remain, need to pull the regulators, clean, and lube first.

 

But what I did do that was not smart, was that while doing some light torch work with a small Berns O Matic torch, I did a very short run with the flame accross my wrist!  I immediately went for the axle grease but found the oil can first and I rubbed that on, then to the house for some Neosporn [sic] and got it under control. Those veins are very close to the surface, had that gone through, it would have required a tournaquet and a visit to the E room.  As it is, I just got a very good 'sun tan' , a bit tender today but all is well.

 

BTW that is completely the opposite of the proper first aid treatment for a burn. Butter grease etc just allow the heat to keep working. You need cool water promptly.

  • Like 2
Posted

BTW that is completely the opposite of the proper first aid treatment for a burn. Butter grease etc just allow the heat to keep working. You need cool water promptly.

Yes yes absolutely, even CPR standards keep changing, just re-certified 2 weeks ago, and last week, dealt with a cardiac arrest, using CPR and DEA, but it did not unfortunately resuscitate the individual, and Paramedics with epinephrine did not help revive him either. The man died unfortunately but I tried....

Posted

If then grease and oil do not absorb heat then why are the used for engines and bearings?  I now recall that water is better, but grease has a negative effect?

Posted

If then grease and oil do not absorb heat then why are the used for engines and bearings?  I now recall that water is better, but grease has a negative effect?

What did Ed say, the oils and grease retain and promote heat not cooling, as what water would do. 3rd degree burns you won't need any of it, you generally won't feel those types of burns right into the muscle tissues.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burn

Posted (edited)

Jeff, everyone in town wanted $50 for the glass, and he would install for $15.00 more so he can install all my rear windows. He will correct the seal next week.  Door windows remain, need to pull the regulators, clean, and lube first.

 

But what I did do that was not smart, was that while doing some light torch work with a small Berns O Matic torch, I did a very short run with the flame accross my wrist!  I immediately went for the axle grease but found the oil can first and I rubbed that on, then to the house for some Neosporn [sic] and got it under control. Those veins are very close to the surface, had that gone through, it would have required a tournaquet and a visit to the E room.  As it is, I just got a very good 'sun tan' , a bit tender today but all is well.

Paul.... :eek: ....you must be an accident waiting to happen. I told you a while back to ditch that torch. I hearby retract my comment about you doing your own glass work. If you were to do it ,,,,,you would most likely need the torch as a first aid device......to sear the gaping wounds closed.

Edited by Jeff Balazs
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Brake lights are working: check! Door seals: check! Tight floor board and pedal openings: check! Tach has a 6 cyl choice: check! A better mount for the tach: check! Dash mounted 6" cooling fan: check! Bed cover on and secure: check! Door and window handles clean, shiny ready to go on: check! Rear view mirrors tight and properly adjusted: check! Emergency fire extinguisher mounted: check! And took another quick but faster drive: fumes about gone, even with no door glass the truck is quieter,

Speedo cable, mount the tach, get the windows in and I'm ready to roll.

Edited by pflaming
  • Like 1
Posted

Did you have to switch the tach to 6 cyl?  What was it set on during that first run?

Posted

Best of luck with the test runs!

 

A nightly no cat check in the garage before closing up would be appropriate!  :rolleyes:

  • Like 1
Posted

"Did you have to switch the tach to 6 cyl? What was it set on during that first run?"  I had to carefully clean the back side of the tach, it was set on 4 cyl and I found the 6 cyl mark so that has just been changed. I'm in the shop now ready to install this tack and connect the wires.

 

"A nightly no cat check in the garage before closing up. . ."  No cats are allowed. My recent purchase of a pair of armadillos should keep things in check! 

 

Speedo cable yet tonight as well.

 

Later

 

 

 

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