1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

[Plymouthy Adams]

there at a number of kits out there available at give away prices...one just has to be aware of the dimensions and go from there...

[pflaming]

2 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Looking good Paul. Maybe this new concept of painting things will have a good influence on you.

 

Merle, only the lazy will criticize a man whose overalls are torn and dirty, but no one wants to be near a man whose shorts are soiled. LOL 

[Dodgeb4ya]

On 5/4/2018 at 1:37 PM, pflaming said:

Fortunately I have NOT placed my order. Eight mallets at $3.00 each will provide me the discs I need and I will have 8 handles too boot. $24.00 vs $180.00. TKS FLASH! 

 

 

The factory MoPar body  mounts are a little bit more complicated that a rubber wacker.... 

 

[RobertKB]

Looks good! Hopefully you are checking rear axle seals, universal joint boots, bearings in front and rear axles, etc. Paint is nice but mechanical  inspection is paranmount.

[pflaming]

Robert, yes the task is mechanical first, cosmetics last. Rear brakes and axle seals next. Drums and shoes already checked checked out by reputable auto machine shop. It's so much easier to work from above. Went through the front suspension earlier. 

 

I put on front disc brakes after this pivture was taken.

Edited May 11, 2018 by pflaming

[RobertKB]

Sounds good! Certainly easier working with the body off with most of these on chassis jobs. You're making good progress.

[pflaming]

Before I put the body back on, I will install the engine, transmission, drive shaft, fuel, etc to the engine and connect everything, and start the engine, so that I could drive it down the street. Then I'll remove the engine and transmission when I lift it up under the body. So lots of small yet intricate things to do next week. 

[Young Ed]

7 hours ago, pflaming said:

Before I put the body back on, I will install the engine, transmission, drive shaft, fuel, etc to the engine and connect everything, and start the engine, so that I could drive it down the street. Then I'll remove the engine and transmission when I lift it up under the body. So lots of small yet intricate things to do next week. 

what?? why would you remove the engine after all of that? you should be able to slide the body on from the back and leave the engine as is

[Plymouthy Adams]

with the steering removed..the body will drop right back down.....and if you did your measurements right, even if you put in a V6 or V8.....and if it slips...the frame will catch it....

[pflaming]

57 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

what?? why would you remove the engine after all of that? you should be able to slide the body on from the back and leave the engine as is

 

41 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

with the steering removed..the body will drop right back down.....and if you did your measurements right, even if you put in a V6 or V8.....and if it slips...the frame will catch it....

 

1. I was going to lift the frame up to the body, a reverse of how I removed it, and was going to remove the engine and transmission to reduce weight. I do not have the benefit of a lift. I do suppose I can arrange proper jacks in proper places and with some one on each jack lower the body onto the frame. Set up correctly, should have better control lowering than lifting. What have I got myself into?

 

2. Body mounts. Here are suggestions: used hocky pucks, used skate wheels, sliced discs from HF mallets, but after a closer look at the removed mounts, these mounts are quite involved and are not all alike. The center mounts, 3 each side, are key, they hold the body proper.

 

This is a suburban so the long roof body has much more leverage on the frame, than a coupe for example. The Suburban is a unique body to frame, to road balance, etc., so needs these special mounts, see pictures in previous post. So I will order a set, poor foundation after all that I've done, appears to be foolhardy. 

 

Ergo, I will meticulously assemble the chassis and drive train then lower the body onto the frame. Do wish me well. 

 

 

[wayfarer]

...wishing you well.... Be careful!

[kencombs]

16 minutes ago, pflaming said:

 

 

 

2. Body mounts. Here are suggestions: used hocky pucks, used skate wheels, sliced discs from HF mallets, but after a closer look at the removed mounts, these mounts are quite involved and are not all alike. The center mounts, 3 each side, are key, they hold the body proper.

 

After looking at the earlier pics, and reviewing my earlier comments, I think that is the right decision.  I guess one could salvage the metal components and rig up something from rubber, but it would take a lot of work.  The price seems more reasonable now. 

 

 

[pflaming]

Here is what I must work with. Once the chassis is under this body, it won't look so menacing. 

[Old Ray]

I have been following this saga with morbid curiosity as I am also doing a frame off but on a '56 Suburban (the frames are almost identical). At age 74 if I am going to  physically be able to continue to enjoy the hobby. even if it is only for one project,  and for safety reasons, I had to get a Rotisserie. Best $ 1000.00 delivered I ever spent.

 

[casper50]

I made mine.  As you say it's money well spent.

[pflaming]

1 hour ago, Old Ray said:

At age 74 if I am going to  physically be able to continue to enjoy the hobby.

Only '74? I'm 80 in September.  Where did the last decade go. I was under the body of my suburban this morning to figure out how to safely lower it on to the frame. I think I'll leave it as is, then have someone professionally undercoat it. Not the best but certainly better than most may do. That rotisserie is NICE, 

 

Will order a kit of mounts this morning. 

 

[RobertKB]

The body is amazingly light if you take off doors and tailgate. I removed and installed the body on my four door '38 Chrysler, now sold, with the help of three friends. Four of us managed fine and you could do you wagon body easily with six people.

 

Before undercoating I would fix all the rust damage on the car, especially the rockers. I know you like patina but why undercoat if the car still needs work. Not trying to make work for you but only suggesting work that will save you time and money down the road. Rest of the car doesn't have patina now so maybe the body could get the same treatment?

[pflaming]

 Body mounts are on order, no bolts nor washers! !! 

Robert: I'm listening.  The underside will  need some attention for sure and one area just in front of the driver's side rear wheel will need some repair, otherwise very sound.

 

To remove those doors with the cabin on stands just does not seem too safe.

 

I have access to a LARGE forklift. With extended forks I can lift the entire car and steam clean with high pressure the bottom. That and a good coat of rust inhibitor should be a good start. 

 

To to be continued. . . .

[pflaming]

Plymouth Suburban body mounts: here are four of the ten mounts required for my suburban. Unlike some other body styles, all ten are split rubber discs with sleeved washers. I ordered a set on Thursday from Roberts who have treated me very well. All metal parts and bolts are NOT included. A bit pricy but they are an important part of the foundation. 

[pflaming]

In a week I may be working on interior, specifically seats. I have a pair of very nice 2010 Lincoln Towncar bucket seats and the original split 60/40 bench seat. Question:  which will a buyer prefer?  My market intention is to thevsurfer crowd, Pismo Beech., Ca. 

[casper50]

There are advantages to both.  But, unless  you put 3 sets of seat belts in the front so that the significant other can ride in the center close to the driver I'd go with the buckets.

[Plymouthy Adams]

the bench seat is for those that like keeping it stock or family oriented owners needing that 6th passenger position.  Per your earlier sharing of info on your market for the very build you doing, the bucket will appeal to the younger set, the guys you targeting with the surfboard rack and all.  The buckets screams personalized and a slant to sport if you will.  However as much as this will be eye appealing, if the rear seat does not match you just lost a few selling point....the mind's eye sees this long before the brain figures out just what make the car less in value than the asking price.

[pflaming]

PA is dead on re seat matching colors. When I bought these seats I thought the tan color would work with the black/gray interior and it does, but to my eye, it doesn't look good through the car door window. So I will visit a couple of upholsterers about new covers, more plain and possibly a better fabric for a surfer car. Suggestions on color and fabric encouraged. Maybe a rear seat color match would look fine.

Edited May 13, 2018 by pflaming

[Dave72dt]

Black and grey interior needs black or some shade of grey seat covers or some combo of black and grey.   They could match or compliment the exterior color if you were painting it.  If you decide to have the seats reupholstered, lose the headrests.  They look totally out of place.

[RobertKB]

Those buckets, ugly in appearance to me, look totally out of place in the car. As you did ask for opinions, I personally would use the original front seat. Your car so do what you want.