dutchmeister Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Making my own brake lines for my B1D (1948 1 Ton 126" wheel base.) Bought the 25' coil of 1/4" brake line and the brass connectors. To get the right lengths cut, I took a wire and taped it all along the length of the original piece. Due to all the bends, this was the only way I could get close estimate. I cut the wire at the end of the original and straightened the coil out. Then I taped the wire to the new line and cut the line at the end of the wire. I have a question regarding flaring. The originals were double lap flared. I did some test flares on the new line, and I really had a tough time trying to get it right. I did get one to come out, but it wasn't a double lap. It didn't split, and looked like it would work with a little dressing from a file. The question is "Can I get away with a single lap with the new brake line materials, or figure on someone flaring them for me?" I plan on bending the lines as I install them (using a spring like support to keep them from crimping and a tube bender.) Learned advice, war stories, etc. welcome. Dutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 No you need a double flare. What type of tool are you using? I picked up a snap on one from ebay for about 40 and it works great. They are about 65 new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 double flares are not that hard..you will need the correct flaring tool..you can get them on loan from Advance Auto or maybe other big box parts houses...dressing the tubing with the correct camfer is the key..use of the kit will show you that the button used to invert the tubing is the exact thickness that the protruding length of tubing should be..the kit will show you step by step on the process.. practice on a few and then start your line duplication Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Fed Hill tubing and double flares are the thing to do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchmeister Posted July 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 (edited) Thank you all. Tim, thanks for the tip about the button. I picked up my tool from NAPA, and there were no instructions with it. I have a Motors Manual and I got the general idea from that. However I was just guessing at how much tube should be protruding. The one in the manual had a pin that acted as a stop. It also was one that had two punches you would use a hammer with. Mine is like a puller. You tighten down and it compresses the tubing--flaring the tip. One thing I'll pass on is a couple tips from the Motors Manual. File the tip of the tubing flat, and ream the hole to remove sharp edges before flaring. Additionally, apply a small amount of brake fluid to the tip before flaring. My guess on the last part is it acts as a non-oil base lubricant. Where I lack in automotive experience, I make up for it in patience. Edited July 5, 2012 by dutchmeister Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 ... practice on a few and then start your line duplication Can't say that enough. Buy a stick of brake line just for getting used to gettin it right. Worse thing is nailing the double...admiring it....and realizing you forgot to slide the nut on first! ugh....lol:D 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 can't talk enough good about FedHill tubing...and you can rent a tool from them to do the flares that make it so easy even I made a good flare on my first flare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest P15-D24 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Spend the money and get a die flare tool like this. The tool's cost will be offset by the material saved from bad flares. They are expensive but give you perfect double flares every time. I have had the "clamp over the the forming die and twist kits" and they are just hit and miss because the tubing slips during the forming operation. Trust me, the time and frustration saved is worth the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Ditto on using a good tool. After making all the brake and fuel lines for both my vehicles using low cost flare tools, it would have been worth it in the beginning to get a quality tool. I've gone through about 4 or 5 cheap(er) flare tools and a lot of frustration in the past 15 years. All that ended up costing more than the tool GTK talks about below. Time for an upgrade! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 I say if you buy a high quality version of the clamping kind they work fine. A snap on one which I have and have used successfully many times is about 1/4 the cost of that eastwood one. The snap on one appears to be the same as all the other clamping ones but it must be made to better tolerances because it doesn't slip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 It all comes down to getting the clamp tight enough. Tighten the side closest to the tube first then tighten the other one. And use the "T-Handle" rod on the wing nut to ensure it's tight. I've never had it slip with that method. I believe I got mine from Matco, but it's the same as any others. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 It all comes down to getting the clamp tight enough. Tighten the side closest to the tube first then tighten the other one. And use the "T-Handle" rod on the wing nut to ensure it's tight. I've never had it slip with that method. I believe I got mine from Matco, but it's the same as any others. Merle Matco probably is the same but the same technique I was taught on Dads snap on one didn't work at all on a cheaper version from napa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty O'Toole Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 There are some good tips on making brake lines in this thread. Maybe I can add a few ideas. You must double flare for safety, the brake lines are under high pressure and if a flare ever splits and leaks you are in trouble. Single flare only for gas lines (carburetor cars) and low pressure applications. To straighten the tubing I like to stand on the end and unroll it against the garage floor. This seems to get it straighter than doing it by hand. Easier too. Cut the old brake line at the fitting and use a socket wrench to take off the old fitting. This is the only way to get them out without rounding off. Try to get the old line out without bending it up too much. You can use it as a guide. I will flare one end of the tube roll, and bend the line to match the old one, taping them together with masking tape as I go. When I get to the end I cut off the tubing, and cut off the masking tape, and flare the end. This gives me a pre formed line. It is never exactly right but close enough if you give it a little bend or tweak here and there. I also tape over the ends before installing to be sure no dirt gets inside. Peel the tape off last thing before screwing in the fitting. Make sure the tube goes in place exactly straight. Bend or adjust as necessary. Then slide the nut down and screw it in place. This makes it easier to get the nut started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Rusty really made a good point...don't forget the nut! It is a bad day when you realize you forgot one! I might have done that! The flare tool P15 pictured is similar to the one I rented from Fed Hill...makes flares super simple (rent from Fed Hill was $35 if you bought their tubing). I'm really happy with the Fed Hill lines...will NEVER rust and you can hand form them. I'm starting to sound like Hank with his crush on Bruce Horkey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 (edited) I'm starting to sound like Hank with his crush on Bruce Horkey! Now that's funny...Made me LOL for sure! As far as Bruce goes he's one of those people that are an asset to our love of Pilothouse Trucks. Like Roberts, like Andy, Like Don Bunn and some of the guys we take for granted that are part of P15-d24. I can think of quite a few people that have made noteable contributions to the Pilothouse knowledgebase. I'm very thankful, Hank P.S. I'm not comparing...just saying. Edited July 6, 2012 by HanksB3B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 6, 2012 Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 There are some good tips on making brake lines in this thread. Maybe I can add a few ideas. You must double flare for safety, the brake lines are under high pressure and if a flare ever splits and leaks you are in trouble. Single flare only for gas lines (carburetor cars) and low pressure applications. Rusty, I think the Mopar fuel lines are a double flare too. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted July 6, 2012 Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 Rusty, I think the Mopar fuel lines are a double flare too.Bob At least they are on my car. I think they were double flare before I replaced them too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchmeister Posted July 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 Great ideas and thanks again. As far as forgetting to put the nut on before flaring.... yup I've learned that lesson too. I'm going to look into the Snap on version. It's in my price range and has a good name too. I won't be buying tools at Napa anymore, I broke the return spring remover. Snapped off the rivet that held the two pieces together. There is inexpensive, and then there is just cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillbilly jack Posted July 6, 2012 Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 Can't say that enough. Buy a stick of brake line just for getting used to gettin it right. Worse thing is nailing the double...admiring it....and realizing you forgot to slide the nut on first! ugh....lol:D48D That's why they call it double flare! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 7, 2012 Report Share Posted July 7, 2012 I bought my double flaring tool back in the mid 60's. It works great. I suggest you buy a tubing bender as pictured. They are available at Lowes. http://www.lowes.com/pd_331956-943-66575.UPP5_0__?productId=3228222&Ntt=tubing+bender&pl=1¤tURL=&facetInfo= The spring benders tend to kink and are hard to remove after the bend. I have not had much luck with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty O'Toole Posted July 7, 2012 Report Share Posted July 7, 2012 Well naturally Mopar used double flare fuel lines. I was speaking generally, some inferior makes used single flare fuel lines. Hey Don that flaring set looks exactly like my old K&N set I bought in 1968. It still works though I have replaced a couple of the mandrels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustyzman Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 I know the price is quite high, but this is hands down the finest flaring tool I have ever seen or used. http://www.mastercool.com/pages/flaring_tools.html If you plan to do multiple vehicles, this is the stuff. Single or double lap. It will also do GM FI fuel lines, Metric Bubble flares, GM and Ford push lock fuel lines and if you are clever, hose barbs. I have done so many brake line jobs over the years at work and home and this ranks as one of my top 5 automotive tools of all time in any category. Plus, because it sets up inline instead of perpendicular to the line, it fits in tight spots for splice jobs. I get a perfect flare every time. For bending I turned a Delrin tool with rounded grooves that allow the brake line to bend into them, but not kink. It is a great help when making the really tight 90's in 3/16" line. +1 on the springs not working worth a darn. Even if you do get a tight radius with no kink, you will likely not get the spring back off. Plus, NiCopp line from AGS is extremely nice to work with. Lasts a lifetime, just not good for fuel due to the alcohol content. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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