dutchmeister

Ground off the head and punched it out. To get the door off, I had to remove it hinges and all. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get the window, regulator, and door latch out. Someone smucked the door with a fork-lift before I bought it. It's pretty tight in there now. I think I'll cut the door skin just above the crunch, pry the edges open and remove it. That should let me get all the hardware out, and I can start on fixing the door skin.

When it comes to historic purity, my truck and I were both made in 1948. Out of necessity neither of us are factory stock anymore. Thanks for the photos Ed, they give me a clear idea of what you used.

Ed I don't know how many more times I'd be taking the door off, but are you talking about a bolt like post?

Do you mean the rivet that connects the arm to the mount on the post?

How do I release the door stop connecting the door to post between the hinges? Also tips 'n tricks to removing the door and window hardware. Thanks.

No David. The rubber runs the entire length on both sides of where the platform rests on the frame. I'll take a photo and post it.

There's a rubber cushion/insulation between the frame and bed. Width the same as frame rail, length same as the bed. What's it called and where can get it? Spent 1/2 hour looking at the pictures in Steele's catalogue-- no luck.

Great ideas and thanks again. As far as forgetting to put the nut on before flaring.... yup I've learned that lesson too. I'm going to look into the Snap on version. It's in my price range and has a good name too. I won't be buying tools at Napa anymore, I broke the return spring remover. Snapped off the rivet that held the two pieces together. There is inexpensive, and then there is just cheap!

Thank you all. Tim, thanks for the tip about the button. I picked up my tool from NAPA, and there were no instructions with it. I have a Motors Manual and I got the general idea from that. However I was just guessing at how much tube should be protruding. The one in the manual had a pin that acted as a stop. It also was one that had two punches you would use a hammer with. Mine is like a puller. You tighten down and it compresses the tubing--flaring the tip. One thing I'll pass on is a couple tips from the Motors Manual. File the tip of the tubing flat, and ream the hole to remove sharp edges before flaring. Additionally, apply a small amount of brake fluid to the tip before flaring. My guess on the last part is it acts as a non-oil base lubricant. Where I lack in automotive experience, I make up for it in patience.

Making my own brake lines for my B1D (1948 1 Ton 126" wheel base.) Bought the 25' coil of 1/4" brake line and the brass connectors. To get the right lengths cut, I took a wire and taped it all along the length of the original piece. Due to all the bends, this was the only way I could get close estimate. I cut the wire at the end of the original and straightened the coil out. Then I taped the wire to the new line and cut the line at the end of the wire. I have a question regarding flaring. The originals were double lap flared. I did some test flares on the new line, and I really had a tough time trying to get it right. I did get one to come out, but it wasn't a double lap. It didn't split, and looked like it would work with a little dressing from a file. The question is "Can I get away with a single lap with the new brake line materials, or figure on someone flaring them for me?" I plan on bending the lines as I install them (using a spring like support to keep them from crimping and a tube bender.) Learned advice, war stories, etc. welcome. Dutch

Looked up part #1116777 which is clear on the one on the right. It was used on models B1B, B1C, and B1D. (1948 1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton.) It was also used on models B2B, B2C up to engine # T172-100902. Continued through all engine #s for B2D Harold

Sierra Specialty Auto is doing the sleeving. Lockheeds step diameter wheel cylinders are $90/ea to be sleeved, and New are around $55/ea. Master cylinder is around $130.

No worries... I found a shop in town that says they can get a pinion shaft and ring gear for a 4.11:1 to replace my 4.3. I'm going to hate it when my luck returns to normal, but til then....

After reading all the posts about how hard it is to remove the rear brake drums, I really wasn't looking forward to it. The day came and I was prepared for the worse. Removed the axle, nuts, etc. Tapped the drum a few times with a maul to break the shoes from the drum (been sitting for 16-18 years), and they just dropped off! Whew, I just used up a bunch of good luck. Wheel cylinders and master are off to be brass sleeved. I rebuilt the engine upper and lower, transmission gone thru, new U-joints... she runs and soon she'll stop.

Thank you guys for all the help! Quick question, what should my manifold pressure be? I have a Carter B&B with stock intake.

I was told by George Asche that increasing my HP can increase MPG. Is this true? I know about milling the head, replacing the cam, dual exhaust and dual carbs. All of these will increase my HP. He states more power means less fuel wasted (like going up hill.) The question is does that translate into better MPG. Right now I have an estimate of current MPG at around 7 I have a B1D with a 230 c.i. That kind of bites, especially on road trips. What other suggestions for at least some improvement? What are you getting for MPG? Thanks y'all.

Got my B1D to haul ore down from the mountain. Almost got it road ready now, but cosmetically it's a mess. Wood is rotten so I need to redo before I can use it. Pine is plentiful and cheap enough. I was going for something nice until I thought about the scraping it will get from 5 gal. buckets full of wet clay and quartz. Still haven't decided whether to put in metal strips over the joints.

Destodav~Thanks, the pics confused me a bit, but the idea of a cotter pin pushed through one of the two upper floor plates makes sense. Bend the tips of the pin over, and slip the spring end through the head of the pin. Simple, easy, and quick (unlike most everthing else I've had to do.)

Where does the spring connect to? Firewall??

I'm using the existing cables, figured they worked before!?! But I might as well eliminate that one. Thanks Mike. Left the battery on trickle charge for 22 hours before the green light came on. Felt good about the chances for success now that I had a fully charged battery. Guess that's why none of the investments I felt good about paid off. Nothing happened! Again, starter spins if I push the button down (albeit it doesn't sound too fast, but then it's been decades since I heard a 6V starter spin) but when I push the pedal....? Yes I had someone watch and they said it depressed the button. I even put something between the pedal arm and button. The starter ground on some gears so I thought it best to stop:p I had the starter rebuilt, but that doesn't mean it was done right. Fly wheel looked good when I had it off. Could it be a short somewhere draining off current?

I just rebuilt the 230 top and bottom so after break in I should be OK. Many years ago I heard an engine does better if after break in it is ran at the higher rpms along with in-town traffic. T or F? Obviously they don't mean redlining the crap out of it.

Cleaned the crud off the carrier and found 4.3 stamped on it. I've been told I couldn't take the truck over 45 mph as the rods can't take the RPMs. Can I go say 50-55 mph with this gear ratio, or do I need to find a 3.9 to 1 if I want to go faster than 45? Hmmm, I'm 63 and maybe going only 45 mph will make it seem that time isn't going bye so fast.

Yeah, the switch isn't the only thing "after market". I found the tranny is a 3 speed w/o syncro, the cover plate had been cut because the shift and brank lever were farther back on the transmission. 1948 Dodge moved the gear and brake lever forward to give cleaner access across the floor board to the driver. I think all 3 speeds that year had syncromesh. Also, I have a Carter BB carb, and the B1D models had Strombergs. George Asche says I have the better carb (he really doesn't like Strombergs!) But that is OT Tried the jumper, couldn't get the starter to spin and I just bought a new 6V from NAPA. If I pushed the button on the starter down, the starter would spin. If I pushed the pedal down, nothing happened. After a couple hours of checking grounding and trying the same thing over and over (remember what Einstein said about that?) I finally checked the battery and found it was probably too low to turn the starter and engine. It's been on a trickle charge for 4 hours now and still isn't charged! George Asche says being a 6V, it probably sat on the shelf too long and lost it's charge. I'm 63 and this is the 1st time I've bought a "new" battery that was DOA.

Mike, I've got a foot starter pedal. According to the diagram, the battery is directly connected to the starter and there is a Red wire from starter to the ammeter. From the ammeter there is a BR W3 lead to the ignition. Other than bypassing the ammeter, wouldn't jumpering from the starter to the coil do the same thing? Thanks for the info.

Ready to fire up my rebuilt engine and time it, when I realized I have no key for the ignition switch. Removed the switch and it has 3 posts marked Coil Ga., bat., and St.. I'm thinking the Coil and St (Starter?) are the two wires to hook temporarily to a toggle switch. From a wiring diaghram it looks like a Brown W2 wire from the Ammeter and a Red W2 from the neg post on the coil. Is this a correct "hotwire"? Identifying the wire colors is difficult, so I'm thinking of running a jumper wire from the starter and another one from the coil, will this work?