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New Fuel Tank for Dodge Trucks


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Not sure if everyone has seen this yet, but I just checked out this web site and noticed this time that 1937-47 Dodge Truck fuel tank (new) will finially be avaliabe. Check out this page if you are interested:

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/category_id=68/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd349.htm

Or go to Tanks Inc and look under "View Products", then "Mopar tanks" and finially "Dodge Truck" if the link does not work.

I looks like it would even fit the 1948-53 truck as well, but the advertisment does not state it that way. Maybe someone with more "Dodge" knowledge out there can confirm that the tanks might be the same.

Not avaliable untill Sept 2012 though.

MMckinney

Caldwell,ID

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interesting, not a direct replacement, at least on my tank there is a step down in the front of the tank. It'd be intersting to see one and see what other things might be good to have (baffles).

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  • 8 years later...

Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I could not find a another post that answered my question. Will the tank from Tanks Inc fit a 1948 B1B pilot house? Finally getting back to the restoration process, frame powder coated and springs/axles reinstalled last week. I hope to make progress this winter. Body work on the cab is completed with paint on the inside done. 
 

Thanks for the help!

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I hope so, I bought one a couple years ago but not installed yet.

As far as I know the "Tanks" tank is made for the earlier1947 models and slightly shorter then the 1948 model. Or the Cross member is moved on the 48 model trucks.

What this means is you need to make a triangle shaped mount, Angle iron and plate. Bolt the mount to frame and then tank to mount.

The factory made this mount for 3/4 ton and larger trucks, because the longer wheel base they moved the cross member on them.

So is the same thing the factory did and not considered a sketchy fix.

 

Also something about the angle of fill tube is slightly different, you may need to square off the end to get a straighter connection to the flexible line going to filler neck on cab.

 

These modifications seem to be so minute, not worth making a new batch of tanks specifically for 48-50 models.

I have pulled mine out of the box and inspected it, I also bought the new sending unit with it ... tank has another covered opening for optional in tank electric pump, nice drain plug on the bottom ... I am satisfied with it.

Still need to weld in the floor and not ready for gas tank yet.

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silly 2 second drawing with my mouse to give you a idea of the bracket. :D

1 piece of angle iron, figure out how tall your frame is and how tall you will want the bracket.  Cut through 1 side of the angle iron and bend it over. weld it back together.

Then cut a piece of plate and weld it in to give it strength.

The angle iron you have the side to drill 2 holes and mount it to the frame & 2 holes to mount it to the tank. The factory tank you have will have the spring mounted bolts on the rear cross member, you can use them to mount it to the new bracket you made.

The front mount of the tank is the same, so bolt it in and you know where to mount your new rear bracket.

 

I had a 3/4 ton 49 B1C is what I bought the tank for originally. That truck had the factory bracket on it. Factory used rivets to mount it to the frame. And my drawing is a exact copy of it  :D    Would take longer to grind the rivets off to move the bracket, then it would take to build a new one.

Do not let the bracket deter you.

 

And the filler tube on the tank mod, that is from Tanks install instructions. I have talked to others on facebook, they said it fit just fine with no mods. So maybe, maybe not.

 

Only thing I am not sure of, how thick should the metal be for the bracket? Bigger the better ... I am thinking 3/16" For a fuel tank, overkill is good .. I wonder what others think it should be .... I still need to make mine.

 

tank bracket.png

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Thanks. I dug deeper into the Tanks Inc. web site and they have pictures of the bracket and explain how it attaches. Your picture is spot on. It seems that is the way to go. Reasonably priced and the mod seems very straight forward. I will need to put together new spring bolts as the old ones were rusted solid, no way to salvage. 

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On 11/15/2020 at 3:44 PM, LMBoise said:

Thanks. I dug deeper into the Tanks Inc. web site and they have pictures of the bracket and explain how it attaches. Your picture is spot on. It seems that is the way to go. Reasonably priced and the mod seems very straight forward. I will need to put together new spring bolts as the old ones were rusted solid, no way to salvage. 

Yes. they should be able to help you make that 39-47 tank fit.  a little back ground here,  i have the registry/forum for the 39-47 series Dodge trucks and went to Tanks, Inc some years ago to task them to consider building a tank that was not available anywhere at the time.  i sent them a used one, leaker, but good original shape and they duplicated it, sent me a prototype and after a few changes suggested, which they incorporated, the tank went into production.  They ordered a container load from Taiwan, and it has become a best seller.  - also duplicates as a universal fit tank  then last year, they called and asked again about how it could be made to fit the B series trucks. i had previously fitted it in a 49 truck and provide notes that a bracket would have to be made, and the filler neck hole had to be enlarged to make it work.  Apparently, there is enough interest in this so they have now provided the above mentioned instructions to  modify and mount it.  So, yes, i would NOT hesitate to buy one of these 39-47 tanks from them (or DCM Classics) and perform the fabrications to get you a nice tank for your B Series. As for spring bolts, check your local auto parts store, in the bubble packs for accessories, look for some modern intake manifold bolts/springs - i found some that are almost a match for the originals on our trucks. 

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I installed the Tanks fuel tank on my '48 B1C.  I had seen several posts about fabricating a bracket for the back of the tank to make it fit Pilothouse models. I had also seen installation kits on eBay for about $75 that featured a welded bracket to extend the back of the tank. But my 116" truck has a different bracket than the shorter trucks and all I needed was a flat piece of steel drilled for the bolt holes. It turns out that the bracket at the back of the tank is different depending on the wheelbase of the truck.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/19/2020 at 6:52 AM, Tony_Urwin said:

I installed the Tanks fuel tank on my '48 B1C.  I had seen several posts about fabricating a bracket for the back of the tank to make it fit Pilothouse models. I had also seen installation kits on eBay for about $75 that featured a welded bracket to extend the back of the tank. But my 116" truck has a different bracket than the shorter trucks and all I needed was a flat piece of steel drilled for the bolt holes. It turns out that the bracket at the back of the tank is different depending on the wheelbase of the truck.

cross member differences?

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I think the rear of the tank attaches to attaches to a full crossmember on the 108" wheelbase trucks.  My 116" flatbed has a stub, kind of a partial crossmember that has no other purpose except to support the back of the tank. Bolts to the frame on the driver side, but doesn't continue across to the the other frame rail.  I could have drilled new holes in the frame and moved it forward, but it was easier to just cut and drill some flat metal to extend the tank a few inches.

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On 11/15/2020 at 11:43 AM, JBNeal said:

moparpro has an eBay store that lists a reproduction that was released a few months ago...not sure of the quality but it is a direct replacement with a competitive price to having an existing tank Renu'd :cool:

 

nice looking tank.  especially nice if it really is direct fit; i don't like to have to modify stuff to make it fit for things like this.  i do not have metal fabrication skills (nor patience for it).

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  • 8 months later...

Are Mikey's tanks painted on the outside?

Do they have corrosion resistant steel or zinc type plating on the inside or just raw steel?

Tanks need to be made plated inside and out or of terne type steel to last.

Would not like rust forming inside. 

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