Tony_Urwin

Not mine, but seen on Cincinnati, OH Craigslist.

I've been trying to reach them for several weeks. I get no answer to phone calls and he hasn't replied to my emails.

Hats off to you, Bingster. I spent the first 16 years of my life in Iowa and the winters are no joke. I have driven several classic cars as daily drivers, but always had a late model car as a backup. The weather here in Cincinnati is less threatening, and for me, the bigger problem is keeping up with traffic and impatient drivers. If you are committed to keeping your DeSoto stock, then I would recommend driving it in good weather only. I don't know if this has been suggested, but one option might be a classic DeSoto with a modern drive train, brakes, defroster, etc. At the very least, consider updated brakes and a rear axle with a gear ratio that makes highway driving more pleasant for you and other drivers.

I think you are right, Mr Adams, at least for my purposes. The Master Parts List shows two different frame rails for the P-15. One part # for the convertible, and another part # for all other models. Maybe I wouldn't even need to move the body mounts to use my frame under the Biz Coupe.

Sorry, the body and chassis are both P-15 lol. I've had a 1948 P-15 Club Coupe chassis in storage forever, and I am looking at a P-15 Biz Coupe that I would use for the body. If I remember correctly, the Convertible and Biz Coupe used a chassis with different mounting points than the Club Coupe and Sedan. I can't seem to find the schematics for the P-15 chassis. I might be willing to alter the chassis if it wasn't too difficult.

Can anyone tell me if the Club Coupe and Business Coupe have the same configuration of body mounts? Is it possible to put the body from a Business Coupe on the chassis of a Club Coupe without moving body mounts?

One of the bolts broke when I removed the timing chain cover. One of my neighbors has a business doing mobile bolt removal, so I invited him over and he removed the bolt with some trouble and appropriate curse words. Yesterday, I chased the threads on the bolt holes and re-installed the cover. However, when I tightened THAT bolt, the threads did not hold and the bolt turned several times after it bottomed out. Of course, it was one of the bolts that extends into the water jacket. I'm not too concerned about leaking oil, but I wonder if the coolant will have enough pressure to leak. Should I go to the trouble of removing the timing chain cover and drilling/tapping that bolt hole, or just wait to see if it leaks? I used plenty of Permatex #2 on the bolt.

SKF99218 is the SpeediSleeve part #

I think the rear of the tank attaches to attaches to a full crossmember on the 108" wheelbase trucks. My 116" flatbed has a stub, kind of a partial crossmember that has no other purpose except to support the back of the tank. Bolts to the frame on the driver side, but doesn't continue across to the the other frame rail. I could have drilled new holes in the frame and moved it forward, but it was easier to just cut and drill some flat metal to extend the tank a few inches.

I installed the Tanks fuel tank on my '48 B1C. I had seen several posts about fabricating a bracket for the back of the tank to make it fit Pilothouse models. I had also seen installation kits on eBay for about $75 that featured a welded bracket to extend the back of the tank. But my 116" truck has a different bracket than the shorter trucks and all I needed was a flat piece of steel drilled for the bolt holes. It turns out that the bracket at the back of the tank is different depending on the wheelbase of the truck.

I own a 1948 Dodge truck with a flathead, which uses a single wide groove pulley. My water pump, 12v alternator, and A/C compressor have 2-groove pulleys with narrow grooves. Tell me if you think this pulley hack will work out. I started by splitting the original single groove pulley. I used a cut-off wheel and a grinder to remove the forward half of the pulley, then ground the remaining half-pulley smooth. I found an old Mopar pulley with 2 narrow grooves. I don’t know the original application, but it was only a few mm larger than the original pulley. I cut off the center section of the pulley with a reciprocating saw. Using a long blade in the saw, I used the outside edges of the pulley to guide the blade. I laid the 2-grrove pulley on its back (the cut side), and laid the single groove pulley face-down on top. I used a MIG and alternated spot welds around the perimeter to join the two pulleys. Any opinions? Do you think it will be balanced enough to power an alternator and an A/C compressor?

What they said. Usually the trucks without corner windows had one piece door windows. The "Deluxe" cabs had quarter windows and wing windows in the doors.

15 years ago, I had chrome plating done at D-G Custom Chrome in Cincinnati. The results were good, and much cheaper than Paul's.

George Asche built this 265ci from the 251 in my 1952 Desoto. Carbs and linkage are also from George. The dual intake is a swap meet part that I polished myself. Anyone ever seen another Nicson intake? [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/aurwin1953/media/2011-08-15%2016.55.43_zpsojl8utkq.jpg.html'>

I'm curious about the roof rack myself. I have one in storage (no wood) and would love to see some pictures of one that had been restored!