Plymouthy Adams Posted November 13, 2014 Report Posted November 13, 2014 varies on your length of rivet and access to the area.. Quote
Young Ed Posted November 13, 2014 Report Posted November 13, 2014 varies on your length of rivet and access to the area.. Overall length about 1/2" and the ones I'm doing now have full access to both sides. Quote
desoto1939 Posted November 13, 2014 Report Posted November 13, 2014 Ok someone show me some tools for properly installing tubular rivets? Or a decent way to fake it? I've got some to do and the only ones I found so far were about $50 per size. ED. To set the rivets for the clutch lining or brake lining there are specila rivet tool to crimp down the brass rivet. ALso rivets come in different sizes anf lengths and also different size heads as per what you are specifically trying to put together. If you are doing a brake relining I can tell you the speific size rivets that you will need and also the quantity that you will need. Contact me with what you are trying to do and I will look up the rivet size for you. I have a rivet setting tool that uses a screw down to set the rivet from the back. I prefer this style instead of the old way of forcing the rivet closed with the hitting it via a punch and hammer. Possibility to crack the lining and with the srew down you can feel when the rivet has bottomed out. Also there is a tool to hold the brake lining on the shoe to keep it positioned on the metal shoe so that you can get the lining to fit perfectly flat onthe curvature of the shoe. I have both of these tools. I will try to post pictures of the tools but send me you home email. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol 2 Quote
desoto1939 Posted November 14, 2014 Report Posted November 14, 2014 (edited) Here are some pictures of the newer style brake rivet tool that peens over the back of the rivet when installing new or replacement brake linings on a brake shoe that can take a riveted lining. I like this style better because you can slowly tighten down on the back of the rivet to peen down the back instead using the style that uses a hammer blow to peen over the rivet. On the brake shoe that I have in the vise there is a tool made by the Starr company. This tool is used to hold the brake lining in position and to keep it flat against the metal shoe. You then insert the specific sized rivet for your brake shoe and please note that there are different size rivets for all type of brake shoes. so it is not just generic rivet. they must be the correct size. I have relined several pairs of brake shoes and it it a very easy job to do. The first two pictures are of the rivet tool and the remaining pictures are of the Starr Brake lining tool. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Edited November 14, 2014 by desoto1939 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 14, 2014 Report Posted November 14, 2014 not sure but I do not think that Ed is looking for setting brake shoes or clutch discs.. Quote
Young Ed Posted November 14, 2014 Report Posted November 14, 2014 not sure but I do not think that Ed is looking for setting brake shoes or clutch discs.. correct. Quote
Dave72dt Posted November 14, 2014 Report Posted November 14, 2014 I've set up punches in a vise to use as a backer against the head of the rivet. The problem is clinching them down since they roll out and down to properly seat. It takes a special punch to do that. You could start them out with a center punch but getting them to roll over is the hard part. Quote
Don Coatney Posted November 15, 2014 Author Report Posted November 15, 2014 Observed on another thread where someone purchased a set of car roller skates. As I need to move my car around in the shop I elected to buy some. Put them in service a few minutes ago and they work great. 2 Quote
JerseyHarold Posted November 15, 2014 Report Posted November 15, 2014 Don, What brand of skates did you get? Quote
Don Coatney Posted November 15, 2014 Author Report Posted November 15, 2014 JerseyHarold, on 15 Nov 2014 - 4:30 PM, said: Don, What brand of skates did you get? Pittsburg, Harbor Freight, 1500 pound rating, $54 per pair with a 20% coupon brought it down to $34 per pair. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1500-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-67338.html Quote
fstfish66 Posted November 16, 2014 Report Posted November 16, 2014 Pittsburg, Harbor Freight, 1500 pound rating, $54 per pair with a 20% coupon brought it down to $34 per pair. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1500-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-67338.html sounds like a killer deal,,, Quote
Ulu Posted November 16, 2014 Report Posted November 16, 2014 I was going to get those same ones, but I need them outdoors & so I wanted iron wheels. I bought them to move the Scout around because the rear brakes are frozen. Quote
Don Coatney Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Posted November 17, 2014 Need Scout photos. This is the only photo I have of the Scout I used to have. Quote
Ulu Posted November 17, 2014 Report Posted November 17, 2014 I don't have the Scout in a good place to take photos. There were taken when I was moving the whole jumkyard around last summer. My dad bought this recap as a spare in Phoenix in 1972. It has never moved from the tire carrier since & still holds air. It's been in the sun every day for 42 years. I'll bet I could pop it pretty easily. ;-) 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Posted November 17, 2014 Looks good. V-8 or slant 4? Quote
Ulu Posted November 17, 2014 Report Posted November 17, 2014 I'm afraid it's a bastard. The chassis is a '63 with a larger '67 4 cyl. The body is swapped from a '67 V-8, purchased in Phoenix in 1972, to replace the, by then rusty, '63 body. We had to swap the radiator bulkheads to make it work, and I drilled all the spot welds & replaced them with pop rivets on both cars. This was taken just before the swap. The Scout on the left was Mom's & the right one was Dad's. My sister sits on my '71 Yamaha 180 twin. Tattered manual was still in the glove box. Dad bought this later Scout Turbo engine about 1974, but we never did install it. Quote
Ulu Posted December 1, 2014 Report Posted December 1, 2014 Hey Don, I found another Scout pic. Of course a skateboard is covering up the winch... 2 Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Posted December 1, 2014 Kool, thanks for posting Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted December 1, 2014 Report Posted December 1, 2014 This little tool comes in handy . 2 Quote
Lloyd Posted December 1, 2014 Report Posted December 1, 2014 This little tool comes in handy . P1010107.JPGP1010109.JPGP1010108.JPG ? For holding a screw in a hole while you use another driver to tighten it?? Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Posted December 1, 2014 Comes in bigger sizes too. 2 Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted December 1, 2014 Report Posted December 1, 2014 ? For holding a screw in a hole while you use another driver to tighten it?? Yes , use a screwdriver to get the screw started and then pull the first tool away . Quote
DJ194950 Posted December 2, 2014 Report Posted December 2, 2014 Jerry my fumble fingers would love that tool! Quote
Ulu Posted December 2, 2014 Report Posted December 2, 2014 A hundred times I've put a screw on a stick with masking tape, or just taped a screw right to the screwdriver because I didn't have a proper manipulator. Very handy indeed. 2 Quote
JBNeal Posted December 2, 2014 Report Posted December 2, 2014 (edited) On 12/1/2014 at 8:33 PM, Ulu said: A hundred times I've put a screw on a stick with masking tape, or just taped a screw right to the screwdriver because I didn't have a proper manipulator. Very handy indeed. Pictures, please TOOLBOX ARSENAL: These soldering pliers were dusted off to work on a aircraft power supply unit...very effective for soldering crimped lugs on 2/0 gauge wire: solder flowed within a second, and still flowed 10 seconds after the pliers were removed Edited January 10, 2021 by JBNeal revised information 3 Quote
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