Oil pan gasket and rear main

[P-12 Tommy]

Well guys, I got up this morning and went ahead and did the oil pan gaskets and rear main seal. Took me about a good 8 hours. The pan had very little sludge. The bearing actually looked pretty good. Whoever did the gaskets last time chopped off the excess on the end gaskets. I was going to pull the radiator and do the chain cover seal , but I figured I'd do the others and see what happens. Of course I went against my better judgement and I've got a tiny drip coming from the chain cover seal. The rear main and everything else is dry as a bone. I took it for a ride and then let it run for about 30 minutes. My next job is to do the chain cover seal. But that'll be next weekend. At least I got 80% of the leak for now. I took a couple of pics.

Tom

[Don Coatney]

Good job. It looks very tempting to cut off the excess gasket material from the end pieces but dont do it.

[1949dakota]

wow! I'm glad I saw this. my pan is off, cleaned, painted and set to go back on soon. I would have trimmed them for sure. this forum is invaluable, Thanks to all who post their knowledge and pics to help us "do it right"!!!

[1949dakota]

Don, I've got more grease under my nails than you. What gives?!!!

[Mark D]

Tom - I'm researching and building confidence to pull my oil pan and clean it and replace my oil pan gasket and rear main seal at the same time. I'm reading your account for the first time and was not expecting that it would be an eight hour job, but I guess some of that time was cleaning and prepping the pan for reinstallation? Other than the pointers from Don to not trim the gasket, any other advice to offer?

I really didn't have this on my radar, but when I changed the oil myself last weekend, I stuck my finger in the pan and felt a good half inch deep collection of gunk in the bottom of the pan which leads me to suspect this oil pan has never been off the car. I completed my head gasket repair last weekend and was delighted to find 6 very smooth cylinders, with only one having very minor scoring. My engine smokes from the oil filler tube, so I suspect a ring job is likely in my future. I'll do valves at that point as well.

Thanks in advance - Mark

[TodFitch]

Don, I've got more grease under my nails than you. What gives?!!!

My solution:

[plyroadking]

So why don't you trim the excess off? I've done it a couple times and never had a leak.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Don't cut off the protruding end rail gaskets! Lay the side rail gaskets on top of the end gaskets-just like the factory instructions say. I use small push in pins to hold the gaskets at the four corners to be sure they stay put along withfour 2"X 5/16" studs at each corner of pan to help guide the pan with assembled gaskets into place and assure no gasket movement. Start all the pan bolts and remove the four corner studs/replace with std pan bolts.
JMO! Bob

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[JIPJOBXX]

After installing my engine and trying to get everything right I had a leak up by the timming gear cover. I really did not realish the idea of removing the radiator so I came up with a jipjob fix and that was to clean up the outside of the chain cover area where it attaches to the engine block and filled in the gasket area with two ton cement and you what no leak!!! May not be the best fix but hay it worked.

[bamfordsgarage]

...went ahead and did the oil pan gaskets and rear main seal. Took me about a good 8 hours...Tom

I'm looking ahead (not forward) to replacing the rear main seal on my D25 soon. I understand your engine is in the car. Did you remove the flywheel for access? Any other hints? Thanks.

_ _ _

Edit: I realize one must have to remove the flywheel to access the upper half of the seal, what I meant to ask was did you need to remove the bellhousing?

And perhaps those with experience could comment on the chances that the lazy-man's approach of leaving the upper half as is and only replacing the lower half would address the problem sufficiently. My rear seal leaks about 1 quart per 200 highway miles.

Edited April 3, 2012 by bamfordsgarage
Thought about it a little more!

[38plymouth]

I'm looking ahead (not forward) to replacing the rear main seal on my D25 soon. I understand your engine is in the car. Did you remove the flywheel for access? Any other hints? Thanks.

_ _ _

Edit: I realize one must have to remove the flywheel to access the upper half of the seal, what I meant to ask was did you need to remove the bellhousing?

And perhaps those with experience could comment on the chances that the lazy-man's approach of leaving the upper half as is and only replacing the lower half would address the problem sufficiently. My rear seal leaks about 1 quart per 200 highway miles.

When I changed my clutch I put in a new rear seal and pan gasket. I couldn't get the top part of the seal out without dropping the crank down so I only changed the lower part. I regret not doing it right because it still leaks like heck.

[bamfordsgarage]

...I only changed the lower part. I regret not doing it right because it still leaks like heck.

Thanks, 38ply. That is good information to have.

I've ordered a new seal from Terrill Machine in Texas. We have a car club meeting tomorrow evening and in hopes of not embarrassing myself in the parking lot, this afternoon I took advantage of having a 2 year old grandson...

[RobertKB]

Thanks, 38ply. That is good information to have.

I've ordered a new seal from Terrill Machine in Texas. We have a car club meeting tomorrow evening and in hopes of not embarrassing myself in the parking lot, this afternoon I took advantage of having a 2 year old grandson...

Chris, now I have seen it all................a Dodge D25 Diaper. I believe it is time you got your Dodge toilet trained!!

[Alshere59]

So any members of your car club on this forum???

You could just tell them it's marking its territory.

Edited April 4, 2012 by Alshere59

[meadowbrook]

So what are the little 2 rubber pins that came with my oil pan gasket set for my 230?

[58prostreet]

I am changing oil pan gasket. I searched forum and found this thread. Never saw an answer to Meadowbrooks question. What are the 2 rubber pins for? This is on a 230 ci in '52 wayfarer.

Thanks

Bob

[Don Coatney]

For the rear seal??? Is that what you are looking at???

[58prostreet]

Don,

There are 2 rubber pieces in a plastic pack. They are 1 1/8"long and 1/8" diameter. Show on box as part R 6312 "oil pan front end seal".It's a Fel-Pro OS 4250 C gasket set.

Thanks

Bob 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Those black rubber "pins" go in a groove on the aluminum retainer sealing bracket at the front of the engine. The curved front part of the oil pan seals against it. You have to remove the timing cover to gain access to one of the bolts screwed into it from the timing cover side.

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[58prostreet]

Dodgeb4ya,

Thanks for your reply. I am only replacing the pan gasket, so I assume I won't use these.

Thanks Bob

[Dodgeb4ya]

You won't need them for pan R&R only.

Bob

[58prostreet]

Bob

Thanks for your help. I jacked car up pretty high to remove jack stands. Was letting down slowly and the block I had to use kicked out and jack went under car and bent pan.

Bob

[wagoneer]

On 4/2/2012 at 5:19 PM, Mark D said:

Tom - I'm researching and building confidence to pull my oil pan and clean it and replace my oil pan gasket and rear main seal at the same time. I'm reading your account for the first time and was not expecting that it would be an eight hour job, but I guess some of that time was cleaning and prepping the pan for reinstallation? Other than the pointers from Don to not trim the gasket, any other advice to offer?

I really didn't have this on my radar, but when I changed the oil myself last weekend, I stuck my finger in the pan and felt a good half inch deep collection of gunk in the bottom of the pan which leads me to suspect this oil pan has never been off the car. I completed my head gasket repair last weekend and was delighted to find 6 very smooth cylinders, with only one having very minor scoring. My engine smokes from the oil filler tube, so I suspect a ring job is likely in my future. I'll do valves at that point as well.

Thanks in advance - Mark

 

 

I’m interested in your last two sentences - smoke coming out of the oil filler tube.

 

i see the same on mine. Can you explain please why you suspect rings? I’m guessing this smoke is not the purpose of this ventilation?

[JBNeal]

If the piston rings are not sealing against the bore walls, any wear on the rings or bore can allow exhaust gas from combustion to escape into the crankcase before being forced out through the exhaust valve...the draft tube and filtered crankcase fill cap allow this smoky buildup to escape to atmosphere so that pressure does not build up and blow out the rear main and timing chain cover seals.  During normal operation, the draft tube system is supposed to draw out excess gases from blowby or steam forming from condensation in the crankcase but only when the vehicle is in motion; when the vehicle is not moving or moving at low speeds, no vacuum is present at the tip of the draft tube, so those gases escape out thru the filtered crankcase fill cap.  But if a PCV system is installed, these excess gases would be drawn into the charge air system at all times, burning off hydrocarbons and keeping the smelly cloud from forming in the engine compartment...

 

additional information - grey beard's PCV installation and modifications 

[keithb7]

Is it correct to assume that an engine not yet fully warmed up is more likely to have a little more blow-by? When compared to the same engine fully warmed up?

I find that if my old Plymouth is not right up there, heated up, climbing a steep hill, second gear, not moving fast...Yes the blow-by tends to waft up into the cab. I don't get this on the same hill, engine running at full, hot operating temperature. (I do have the odd seal leaking or missing in my floor holes for the foot controls.)

Edited August 11, 2020 by keithb7