Los_Control

Going with pa on this one, seems like the factory ford mistake was to helicoil the spark plugs on their goof up. I have helicoiled a spark plug on a toyota for other reasons, and never had a issue with it for years, was other reasons I junked it. (carburetor) helicoils work well if done right, and spark plugs under engine compression is about as good example as you can get.

Molasses is a great way to go, with my little experience of it. I did have a small 20 gallon barrel I used once for this purpose. I was able to soak my heater cases in it after I diss assembled and removed the heater core of course. The doors on the heater were rusted closed, one area was badly pitted. It all cleaned up to bare metal, the doors work perfect, the pits remain. I do want to do this again, but in a bigger way. Problem I had with my experiment, was at my uncles property, the skunks would come at night and drink the molasses. I had to add more. And the small barrel was not big enough to be real useful, fine for small parts. Just thinking you need to put this in a area away from animals/wild life Best Idea I read on the internet, a few guys got together, they got a free hot tub off of craigs list, they put it in a old barn and filled it with molasses splitting the cost. iirc was about $300 to fill it, bringing 5 gal buckets to the feed store to fill. They used it all summer long and then dumped it in the field when done. It acts as a fertilizer. They dipped doors, fenders, hoods trunk lids all summer long. Also I think you need temps about ~70 degrees or higher to be successful.

drill em for cool ... hrm factor?

On my 1949 218, the plugs are 1,5/8" and found them at a local car quest parts store. They gave me a option for steel or brass, so I chose brass. Then later, I read where someone suggest brass is a bad idea because of dissimilar metals. The brass will not corrode out, so the block will actually be the weak link and start corroding. If this is true, dunno. But it does make sense to me, The plugs would be a lot easier to replace instead of a block. There seems to be no definitive answer on this though. Mostly just opinions. My opinion is leaning towards, The brass will work great for the 20 or 30 years we use these engines. But since they are now 70 years old, if they had brass soft plugs from factory, 70 years of time may cause a issue with the blocks. I am thinking I may replace my brass ones with steel. Let the next caretaker have as much fun as I did replacing them

one more, I had a 1970 something cornet police car, traded it to my brother inlaw for a 1961 sweptline, 6cyl, 4 speed posi rear end My brother inlaw used the truck to haul scrap metal, it was worn out before I got it. He loved the police car so I traded him. One day my wife was driving the 1961 truck down the freeway and heard a explosion, she was concerned and thought maybe a tire blew, pulled off the freeway to check it out. could find nothing wrong and went about her day and drove home. Next Saturday, my day off I looked at the truck, was the dipstick blown off and curled up from a explosion in the crank case .... had to stand on the inner fender and use 2 hands to pull the dipstick out, and then it was 1" short. Fuel leaking past the carb and caused a explosion in the crank case ... we still drove that truck for another year and traded it back to the brother inlaw who used it to scrap iron

Maybe one of my first mopar experience, At a Sambo's coffee shop when I was 18, I bought A 1969 satellite with a 318 wedge for $35 The owner was broke down and could not get the car running. The owner of the restaurant told him to get it out of the parking lot. I bought it and fixed the firing order of the spark plug wires and drove it home .... still it was a bondo buggy. Yeah the owner was pissed, but I was 18 and dating his little sister, he thought carrying a gun made him bigger ... his sister made him smaller

seriously I would not post this, but tim in nb said go ahead My wife has a 1993 dodge caravan, was her mothers car, when her mother died was passed on to her. My father inlaw did a lot of work to the car, but he always hated it and called it the "*******" A rebuilt transmission at 150k was mandatory ... still gave him issues. Since my wife has owned it, first thing we did is re-name it Lady Belle She is pretty happy with a proper name, she no longer leaks trans fluid and no longer burns oil between oil changes. Just did a maintenance check on her as tomorrow taking her for a 4 hour road trip ... she checks out great. I washed her windows and vacuum her floors. Treat a mopar right and they will return the favor .

Yesterday when I was a kid in high school, I had a 51 ford truck with a flathead v8. In winter time I had to toss a rag over the carb to get it to start. Yes the manual choke worked, the engine was rebuilt and ran great and started fine in warmer weather. I did need to remove the air cleaner in winter to put a rag over the carb. Looking back at it today, I think the carb was probably wore out, using the rag it did give it a richer start, to much air sucking in around the choke plate. Just a idea to try, you know if it does start easier with a rag over the top of the carb, it will give you a starting point for troubleshooting. Back then (yesterday) when I was 16, I was pretty quick at starting the truck and then run around to the front and pull the rag off the carb before it choked out and died. Little slower today.

I would not think to harsh of them, we had to have a few clunkers in our paths to allow us to appreciate the real gem the slant 6 is.

I dunno, real men use strong arm steering. Maybe can create a separate forum page for those that use power steering? OMG I better run fast and far now

WOW is correct, can't think of a better word to describe it.

I have to agree with that, life is to short to spend time fixing cheap tools that do not work right. The tool I posted is stamped made in the USA along with patent number. Lisle tools is located In Iowa. But it does look the same as the one you posted. Does a fine job on steel lines just have to wait and see how long it last.

Here is the one I bought, looks like yours but claims it works on copper as well. $65 Lisle 31310 Double Flaring Tool Set Makes Both Single and Double SAE Flares. This tool set includes everything to flare thin wall steel, aluminum or .040 wall soft copper tubing. The set includes 5 thread dies and adapters for forming double flares on the following tubing sizes: 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 1/2". However, this set is not for use on stainless steel tubing. The set is packaged in a durable, oil and grease resistant tray for storage. Full instructions are included.

Just curious if anyone has ran 14" tires on a pilothouse truck. I know it sounds wrong, if one gets the tire height right, they should work, wondering if they might look too small. I would think with drum brakes they would clear. The price is cheap enough , worth picking up for resale or trading stock, 14 x 10 for the rear, 14 x7 for the front ... I dunno Yay or Nay?

All I can say is I like it, I need to make a heat shield, mine is missing. I wonder what would be a good modern replacement for the asbestos?

Great minds think alike I think what happens is a mindset that if I switch to 12 volts, I must switch all electrical with it. Then it gets easy to be side tracked.

They do have to match, As PA said, you do not want then mesh and bind up. My point is, the 6 volt starter you have will work with the 12 volt system. Just use it then deal with it when it wears out. If you compare the headlight wires from a 6 volt car and a 12 volt car, the 6 volt wiring will be a heavier gauge. A 6 volt system requires heavy 1 ot or 00 battery cables, while a 12 volt has much smaller battery cables. The 6 volt starter is the same, it will be built heavier then the 12 volt starter. It will work with 12 volts. Is suggested that you not crank the 6 volt starter for extended periods of time under 12 volt, that is just common sense for any starter. People have run the same 6 volt starter for years on 12 volt. When it goes out, then take it to a starter shop and have it rebuilt, or buy a different starter, just make sure it is correct for your application.

Just never heard of anyone switching the ring gear on the flywheel because switching from 6 volt to 12 volt. Now if you do switch the starter, of course you will need to be sure it is physically the same as what you are replacing. But switching to 12 volt is no reason to replace the existing starter.

Only thing different I am aware of, the 6 volt has heavier wiring because 6 volt uses more amps. Many have switched to 12 volts and run the stock 6 volt starter on 12 volts for years. Until it fails Suggesting a physical difference like the ring gear is just wrong.

all ya need is a gas can with a hose connected to the carb, prove it runs. without the rods knocking on the oil pan. Otherwise the standard assumption of any buyer is it is a core engine for a rebuild. If they refuse to toss a battery in it and fire it up, it is just a core engine and may be a bad crank or something they wish to hide. Pretty sure there is a huge following of users on these old Cadillac, While we all have our likes and dislikes, some cars have better after market support then others. Some cars have better resale car then others .... I bet this Cadilac has better support and resale then most any mopar of the same year. Just saying, if the buyer is claiming a rebuilt engine/running engine, will not take much to prove it. I imagine it would take most of $5k to rebuild that engine.

My best use for wd40 is a cleaner. I love using it in my air tools. Add some wd40 and then run the tool and run the tool and blow out what you just added, do this a few times and it cleans out all the old gummed up oil in the tool over the years. Then add fresh clean air tool oil. The tool will have power just like it was brand new again. Same when people claim I sprayed wd40 on my old ford door hinges and works like new again, I swear by wd40! They just cleaned all the old grime off the hinges, now they are working like they should, now grease them. wd40 is a good cleaner in my opinion.

You can buy a 12 volt coil with built in resistor so you do not need it. I get my opinion from reading the H.A.M.B. there was a trouble shooting session going on about a strange miss. In the end it was the guy switched from 6 volt to 12 volt and a new 12 volt coil fixed him up. I can not say you will find the same issue, but it might be something to think about and just avoid. Naw, thats just a good excuse for the wife when she ask why all these new parts are showing up on the door step