Los_Control

I just pulled what I think is the original fuel line from my truck. It is one piece all the way. When I replace it, the local parts store only sell the steel lines in 5' section, and there will be a splice when I replace it. If you have a splice, maybe it has been replaced in the past? The original does end before the fuel pump and a short rubber line to finish it. I believe for vibration between engine and frame is the purpose.

Are these carter B&B carbs? just thinking the typical position for the carbs with no spring is wide open throttle. And the spring closes the throttle down to idle. That is the way a stock factory setup works. This means if the spring breaks, it goes to wide open throttle and you need to change your underwear. I assume your dual carb setup is the same.

Sounds like a fun project, if it is as advertised. You may want to find a decent mechanic to go with you to look at it ... hire and pay them even. A frame off swap is a huge project, there is many ways it can go sideways. Where it will cost more to make it safe, then if you had a stock original car to begin with. Quite often, picking up someone else's 1/2 finished project can be a nightmare ... if it was easy they would finish it and sell it for more money. You can not here it run, you can not test drive it to see if the transmission works ... do they have the correct wiring harness to go with the engine/transmission ... if needed. The list goes on, poor welding skills can kill you on a frame swap. But it may be a good deal if the price is right, compare to a finished car that you can drive and see what you are getting. If unsure, pay a professional to look at it is my advice.

I think you can use windows app called paint to downsize the photos. Might be easier to go into your camera settings and just set the photo size smaller, then you wont need to resize them later.

Welcome aboard .... have you felt the coil when it happens ... is it hot to the touch? Seems like something running for a few min and then getting hot, and a coil could do that. Another thought is the new condenser, assuming you changed it with the points ... modern stuff is junk and you need to buy 3 to get one good one .... you might try putting the old one back in.

I thought about using my truck for a Halloween display .... Then I figured I might need to hand out tetanus shots instead of candy .... that would lead the kids handing me back a trick .... decided it best to just turn the porch light off this year and save the chocolate for me

LOL .... watching a guy build a roadster on youtube, he really wants louvers on the trunk lid, but worried about water getting into the trunk ... And it's like uhhh ... you got no top. I am sure your wife would love the louvers on the top, will feel the sun shinning through ... will be the happy car.

Just a thought, you might pull the hood off the charger sitting behind your truck, let the shop practice on it. Then if you are satisfied let them do your truck hood. Ok, I am going to run and hide now

I am not spraying the frame, if it was completely disassembled I would. As is, I need to brush it on to avoid painting things that should not be painted. Brushing it on, there is no need for reducer and I am going over it a couple times after it dries. So far from the cowl forward I have used 1/3 of a gallon. That includes all the splash pans, radiator support, axle, springs etc .... currently under the cab, there is quite a bit to paint also, cab floor, battery box, cross member ... the new gas tank I will spray before installing. You get past the cab, and there is quite a bit there to paint. Brushing it on, you do use a lot more paint,and then I am doing 2 coats. I also mix the paint well in the can, then I pour what I am using into a different container. I do not want to be sticking a dirty brush in the gallon can, and there is some waste from this process. I am not going to pour the 1 or 2" of paint left over back into the gallon can. As long as I get the surface good and clean, I am comfortable with a thick layer of paint, I do have a couple runs, but very few. Most can fix as you create them ... then there is brush marks. I am ok with that on the frame. This is no show truck or trailer queen. I will be hauling concrete and lumber, tools you name it. I am going to use it. And it is cheap enough, why not paint it twice once it is dry enough to do so. I really will be surprised if I do not open the second gallon before the under carriage is finished. But all the sheet metal, fenders cab bed will be sprayed and will be at least 2 coats primer, 3 coats paint, but it wont take much paint. And will be more picky on appearance.

All I can say, I found that on the internet, so I was sure it was true There is a guy on youtube that talks like a idiot, but he has a successful body shop for over 30 years. I followed the instructions just like he showed .... his looked fine when finished. Mine also looked fine, but it was the next morning several hours later where I had the problem. He did not show his the next day. Right now, there is just a light film on them from the ospho, is easily hand sanded off. If you have a parts store that mixes paint, they will have a flattening agent in the mix bank. And, can provide info on how much to add to arrive at certain glossiness. Flat, matte etc. I think napa may help me with that, they are pretty helpful at times.

Thats interesting, I figured there would be something I could add, I did not figure it to be corn starch As a old carpenter, I have played with plaster, adding coffee grounds to it gives it a nice dark streaky finish. Adjusting the amount adjust the color. Either way I have 2 gallons of gloss black to use up, looks like 1.5 is going on the under side. Then will need to buy fresh paint for the body anyways.. Ultimate paint for me would be some areas where red primer is showing through the black. From years of use. I want new paint, but want it to look like it was a old original paint job. I may experiment some with this idea, if I cant make it look natural then will just settle for new. Pretty sure I would not be able to pull this off with a high gloss paint.

Last I heard, there was also a sock involved in removing cosmoline

I just wanted to add to this thread, I think I have everything under control now. The fenders are now fine, am in the process of going over and re-doing the rest of the pieces while at it. I tried to follow instructions, watched a few youtube vids and it seems pretty straight forward. 1, apply the muriatic ... This can take several coats and need to use fresh water to rinse off the residue and then apply more acid until at clean bare metal. 2, apply a vinegar/water mix to neutralize the acid. 3, rinse with clean water to neutralize the vinegar and wipe dry with clean rags. 4, apply ospho for long term rust protection until painted. In this photo, you can see the difference between the hood and the fenders. I used the above instructions to clean the parts last year, and I think the hood looks like crap but the rust is dead and did not come back. The rest of the parts looked the same. Except the one fender that continued to rust .... seems like it was hit and miss to get the job done. Really not satisfied with it but glad the rust was dead and not getting worse. This time around, after experimenting a few different ways, I came up with my way. 1, apply the acid and rinse with water as needed til you are at clean metal. 2, apply the acid one last time, and before it dries on the clean metal, apply ospho and wipe dry with a clean rag. Done! Just any time I tried to neutralize the acid with water, it was a instant flash rust following. I could use water to rinse the metal clean, but had to follow up with acid after water. Then ospho to finish the job.

I really appreciate that feed back. I have not written it in stone yet, but playing with the idea of two tone red with black fenders and running boards. I think my truck would hate me if it turned pink I started this thread because I was really disappointed in the finish from my first attempt. Pretty sure at this point, it was me mixing enamel paint with lacquer thinner. Which led me to buying the rustoleum. I am glad I did and will be more confident with it, instead of the Ace hardware brand enamel. With that being said, I am going ahead with the Ace paint on the frame. I put some on bare metal and was just a test spot .... later when I went to sand it off to replace with the new Rustoleum. It was bonded solid and was difficult to remove .... I decided to go ahead and use the Ace enamel on the frame and under parts that wont be seen. I am applying it by brush, so it is going on thick and a couple coats. Right now at this rate, I may use more then 1 gallon for the frame and undercarriage. The prep work for the frame, is get everything I can with a grinder flap disk or wire wheel, what ever I can with a wire brush and sand paper and scrapers. Cleaning with simple green and then spraying with ospho. Not ideal, but I do not have the means to strip it down to bare frame and doing the best job I can from this angle. The body parts are going to bare metal using muriatic acid and protected with ospho. Then red oxide primer and Rustoleum enamel paint. Hoping this prep work will be enough. I just have some minor body work to take care of first, then will wipe down and clean the metal etc before primer.

Pretty impressive resume. Thanks for the tip, I will definitely try one. Established in 1978 by Edward Yelke, Design Technology, Inc. initially focused on the design and development of timing instruments for diesel engines. Products were developed for major local OEMs such as International Harvester and J.I. Case. Ed's patented piezo transducer became the technology around which the diesel testing units were designed. Identifying the need for a small, economical unit to measure RPM and track time on small gas engines, the Tiny-Tach was developed and added to the product lineup. It is now a well established product that is sold worldwide in 50+ countries both to individuals and a variety of manufacturing and distribution companies. Design Technology continues to upgrade the Tiny-Tach line to work on both gas and diesel engines. Design Technology, Inc. makes every effort to offer personal assistance to customers who have questions about our products and their applications. Please feel free to give us a call when you need assistance. We can't solve every problem, but we are always willing to give it our best effort. Please call (630) 920-1300 or email us if you have questions on applications or operations.

I dont blame you for your choice, I think the 3 speed truck transmission would make a nice period correct hot rod. Be nice to see pics of it I imagine it would be the same trans as the earlier cars with the 3 speed floor shift. I also believe that in the past, that sometimes dodge trucks would use plymouth engines to get rid of last years inventory. I am pretty sure you wont have any problems, assuming that neither one was attached to a fluid drive. The bell housing clutch input shaft should all be the same. But I have never done this swap myself.

1965 dodge dart GT Looks close, but I think the emblem is saying dodge dart

Here is a good video on how to rebuild these carbs, they are pretty simple.

I just did my brake lines, the bending tool and the double flare tool was probably close to $100. They are good quality , the flare tool was $65, I forgot what I paid for the bender. Now I own the tools and will be ready for when I do the fuel line. The pre made steel lines are cheap, and easy to cut and re-flare. I was able to remove my old lines, brake and fuel lines and keep them as a pattern to copy and make the new lines. As others said, the nickel/copper lines are easy to bend by hand and work with. They probably will never rust out. I figure the old steel lines lasted 70 years, if the new steel lines last 30 years, is longer then I will need them.

If only that red head would leave me alone

I suspect this is a area you will want to explore and try to get the existing in as good shape as you can. Rather you think so or not, the shift linkage is a very important area, you want to be sure you have it as lubricated and working as you can. Otherwise, just take it apart and grease it, then assume it all works.

I have a package of assorted gasket sheets, Think I first tried making a cork gasket, I can say that failed. Or at least it was not re-usable., Think I will try the rubber sheet material next ....or maybe the blue fiber sheet. thats if the parts house does not have a copper alternative to offer. Not asked yet.

fwiw, my 49 B1B had a copper gasket on the drain plug. It was shot and came off in 2 pieces. So I put it back on without it, I am not driving it on the road at this time, just start it up and move it around the yard. My drain plug leaks without it and need to replace it.

I will tell you my theory I learned while was in the tire business. But I dealt mostly with modern radials, not sure how much is different between bias and radials. The proper amount of air in the tire, is the amount that is needed to carry the load. Just saying, If the left front tire on my hoopty goes down to 20 pounds psi, and the tire is squatting, it is under inflated. Same time, if it is not mounted on the hoopty, then it has enough air to carry the sidewalls and is not underinflated. The air pressure is directly related to the amount of weight the tire is carrying. A modern tire may say max pressure 35 psi. If you put 35 psi in then and mount them on a 2 ton truck and add weight, they are over loaded. The sidewalls will squat and down the road the tires will fail. If you put the same tires on the front of a hot rod roadster, very little weight on them, maybe 20 pounds psi is all you need to carry the weight? Only saying, it is the air pressure that holds up the tires, You need your tires side walls to stand up and take the load. The max air pressure on the side of the tire is same as a 1 ton chain hoist, you can lift anything up to 1 ton, over that you are on your own. But you can lift any weight you want under 1 ton. If your tires say max 35 psi, you can run less then that, just make sure your tires sidewalls are standing up to the job. You may find that 28psi or 30 psi, gives you the best ride and the tires work best ... you just need to play here to find what you like. 35 psi in same situation may ride like a wooden buck board. Even though I am used to working with radials, I see no reason why bias is any different on weight and air pressure.

5 miles down the road I may have been doing 4 mph under ...I just hate using the cruise control, I figure I have more control for defensive driving without it, and I vary a bit up and down. I figure 3-4 mph is a safe space .... boy was I wrong