Los_Control

I apologize, I did not check your project car under name and was thinking truck. Since classifieds are not allowed in this thread, I am going to send you a pm for a tip to a guy I know has a 1951 suburban. I gave it to him to keep it out of the scrap yard. He had plans to fix it, It was really rough as it sat since 1961. If you open the passenger door it dropped 6" because A pillars had no floor to connect to But the body really was not that bad. I know since then he has picked up several better project cars. I think it would be worth a pm to him to see if he was willing to sell parts? Could be a 2 letter reply "NO" Or it may work out. Either way he is in Washington state and shipping is required.

Never seen new front fenders for sale. DCM does have rear fenders for sale. They are fiberglass reproductions and they are $275 each. I would imagine that front fenders would be more then the rear fenders .... you kinda need to be at piece with self and decide what you want to spend and what you may be willing to fix to save the cost of new. There is a recent add on FB marketplace for 1950 dodge rear fenders for $300 for the pair. For that price I will fix the ones I have.

My brother had a mid 60's baracuda with a slant 6 he drove as a daily driver/work car years ago. Driving home on the freeway it misfired and died. Actually blew the dipstick out of its hole. He sold it to a co-worker for $100. Co-worker came over and looked at it, went to parts store and bought a distributor cap, installed it and drove the car home. You get a aging distributor cap and can cause much grief. A hairline crack and spark will choose easiest path through the crack. Then with the quality of todays ignition parts, age is not really a factor, as new can be bad out of the box or last for a short time. Just something to inspect closely.

You mean the previous owner did not was under the car? Myself am doing the mechanical removal of the old grease, then cleaning and painting ... not adding oil to the exterior yet, after brushing on paint, I may spray it with oil? Just using rustoleum paint from tractor supply and painting the under carriage. Nothing special. My biggest concern was how hard the 70 year old grease was, I suspected the interior grease would also be bad. With advice from this community, I pulled out the zirk fittings and using small wire I pulled out as much old grease as I could before re-greasing. I was pleasantly surprised the existing old grease was not that bad. Was well worth doing this, a few zirks needed cleaned or replaced, would not accept grease, not 100% old grease removal, but got a bunch out and then replaced with new grease ... just peace of mind.

I love these old bikes, I hate loud pipes

Sometimes like now, we have more time on our hands. Might be worth checking out youtube. Sure most here knows of Nicks garage in Canada, builds a lot of big block mopars and hemi's Then there is Uncle Tony's garage ... Tony recently built a 318. Goal was street/strip and when dialed in add nitrous. Was all stock pieces, block crank rods pistons, porting polish at home in the garage. He did add a specific style intake, carb, cam, long tube headers etc. It was pretty impressive when he took it out on the street for the first time and just beat on it. No nitro yet. Tony in the past, fed his family as a mechanic working on dragsters and funny cars, he knows a little something. So impressive, that Nick from Canada called Tony, they set up a youtube video project starting May 1rst. Some clown will drive a car to Tony, Tony will pull the 318 and build it, then the clown will drive the 318 back to Canada to Nick's garage, they will pull it and put it on a dyno to see what kind of hp it is putting out. Sorry for long story, I just thought that anyone interested in building a 318/360, would be interested in watching the vids and see what was done and what the outcome would be. Here is a link to Tony's channel, currently building a 360 for a daily driver, more interested in getting it out of the way to start the project coming up.

Must be just about when they figured out they would make more money if parts failed. Personally I figure the grease really wont last long in a original water pump, going to need a few squirts every time it starts leaking. Why not use cheap grease so it will get flushed out and have a fresh supply as long as it is being maintained? Just my two cents. Even cheap grease today is probably better then what was available when these vehicles were built. Currently working on a old john deere garden tractor. Just amazed the pulley/shafts on the deck have zirk fittings for grease, but the bearings inside are sealed bearings. Grease the shaft all you want and get a good feeling, those bearings are not getting grease. I do think this is intentional for parts to wear out, and then need replaced after the product is sold.

This sounds strange, I am no electrical guru. If you have to turn the switch to the on position for it to start .... I assume it will not start with the key in off position ? Myself I agree time for a new switch, this may fix it ... I am thinking the wiring is also messed with, somehow back feeding once it is started? I suspect new switch and then switching the wire mess now back to original. I am at this very moment adding a start button to my riding mower because the switch is bad. All I need to do is run power from the battery to one side, then the other side to the starter solenoid. Other then removing the original wire from the solenoid, I am not touching any factory wiring. Same principle if you use a remote starter switch to work on the car. The solenoid only needs a 12 or 6 volt signal to spin the starter, the key in the on position sends the signal to the coil.

Just to be clear, Estrada motorsports is a regular poster on this forum. 100% their work and nothing to do with me, I just shared the link.

worth watching this vid on it

What I have done on a 1972 CJ5, was broke down with a bad axle bearing in the parking lot of a machine shop. They loaned me a old steel 16" 8 lug wheel with a short chain on it. Bolt the chain to the axle, raise the wheel about chest level and let it swing down between your legs. I suppose the wheel weighs about 25 pounds, with the downward momentum, The axle jumped out of it's home with 1 swing. Never tried it on a old dodge, I would try it again first before going to a slide hammer. Sure the slide hammer works fine, just seems like more work to me .... the chain and weight is just a bigger hammer is all.

I am actually ignorant on this issue. I know my B1C had the 11" brake drums on the rear with the 5,5" bolt pattern. While the front had the 1/2 ton front axle with 10" drums 4.5" bolt pattern. As far as I know, the 3/4 ton just had a little heavier leaf spring pack, bigger brakes. Wheel base was a little longer and they offered a longer bed. A trained eye can spot the wheel base and know it is a 3/4 ton and not a 1/2 ton. Really not a lot of difference between them. I moved out of state and never got to finish that truck, I gave it to a friend. Because the 11" drums are even harder to find then the 10", I planned on a rear axle swap and front disk brake conversion. For a daily driver this was simply the cheaper way to fix a bunch of issues. That may not work for your plans. Depends on if you want to restore, or repair and drive? My point is, 3/4 ton brake parts will not be easy to find used. Price of 1 new brake drum from ebay, would pay for a complete axle swap with modern brakes. For ~$2k you can put new brakes on that truck, for ~$400 you can do a axle swap with modern brakes. Today I have a B1B and plan to keep it as bone stock as I can. Different truck with a different plan, And I have a spare rear end hoping to get 2 good drums out of 4. If I run into brake drum issues, I will do the axle swap on this one. Oddball trucks and just not a lot of choices for aftermarket replacement parts. For a price they are available.

Also 3/4 ton are 11" drums while 1/2 ton are 10" ?

I would only guess, The bushing on the shaft wears out ... the driver grabs the pedal and bends it, so it does not scrape on the toe board ... rinse & repeat I would be more surprised if the pedal was not bent after all these years.

Too bad the neighbors do not pickup their trash, see a piece of cardboard blew into your driveway Good looking pan!

My 1949 B1C had studs and nuts on the rear. Old farm truck, farmer had swapped in a 1/2 ton front end so it had bolts on the front. Just curious now if the 3/4 tons had studs/nuts front and rear? Is it even possible to swap brake drums front and rear? Thinking center hole may not be the same. Thinking the studs were good for dual wheel applications, but may have used bolts on front? I really have no idea and will be quiet now

I love gassers, they do have the cool factor. Something as complete and as good as this one is, I feel would be a shame to make it a gasser... Most times I feel something, not important to anyone else. I try not to do this in public.

To me it sounds like, which came first ... chicken or the egg. If the oil pump failed it would not provide lube to the bearings. If the bearings failed, would require more effort from the oil pump to keep up with the slop? Either way, I wish you the best of luck, sounds like you were on top of it and the repair may not be so bad.

No Idea how many miles I had on my astro. I really did like it though, it had a factory manual 5 speed in it ... I have never seen another. The 4.3/manual would run forever .... sadly as a carpenter, it just was not big enough to haul materials. Far as the mopar mini vans go, I had some old foggy tell me the transmissions were just to small for the weight. True? I dunno. Wife has a 1993 caravan, she inherited from her mother when she passed away. Father bought it used with a bad trans at 140k miles. Had it rebuilt and was driven very little afterwards, mother was sick. Right now it has 181k miles on it, and I would drive it anywhere. 150k it needed a fuel pump. Since the wife owned it, we drove it from WA > NM > WA > TX > WA > TX > WA >TX >NM >TX >NM ... you get the idea. Just a 27 year old car that has been kept up on maintenance. at 3k miles it will use about 1/2 quart oil, and I change it. Comfortable seats, cold ac, loud radio, cruise control, A little cargo room ... what more you want? Father inlaw spent $2k on the trans rebuild and removed/installed it himself. Was it worth it? Happy wife happy life. Myself I would never had put $2k into it, Curious to see how far the rebuilt trans go. As is, just to good of a car to consider replacing, the 70k mile tires still have 50k left \0/

While working on my Uncles 67 international a few years ago. I changed the points and condenser, was a no start. After some trouble shooting, figured out the condenser was bad, so bought another from napa. Uncle would only deal with napa .... once a year he would bring 4 extra large pizza to feed the crew. Just saying, he only bought auto parts from napa. So after buying the 2nd condenser, truck fired right up and I started to tune it. When I shut the truck off, it would never start again. This time I went out in the back yard and stole a condenser from a engine that had been sitting for 20 years. Worked perfect and truck ran great after that. Only point is, with the cheap Chinese crap we are stuck with today, I plan to move to a slant 6 electronic ignition when my 30 year old ignition parts fail.

I thank you and appreciate the efforts you have applied to our kids. I have been lied to my entire life, why exactly do you think I should accept what you have been taught and teach? I apologize to Sam Buchanan Sam is exactly the person we need to teach our children. I am the person that yells at the kids to get off my lawn. As far as what we are taught about chemistry ... are you going to tell me next that oil comes from dinosaur bones? Just saying I have no faith in public schools.

I dunno, our one and only job is to bring these vehicles to the next generation. They are 70 years old now, how can we make them survive another 70 years? I dunno ... I love ya all, I just do not trust public schools or a public school teacher telling me how to preserve my truck.

My big concern with facebook was being tracked or personal info being saved ... somehow it was intrusive in my life blah blah blah. And it is all true. Same time, do you have a cell phone? Same story you are already able to be tracked. Do you use google? Yup there ya go Do you order from Amazon? They hold the contract with the CIA to supply the data storage for all this electronic information. Only point is, facebook is just a tiny corner of the entire spider web. I once thought that I would not use facebook for these reasons, Now I feel like the boat is already sitting on the bottom of the lake, is way to late to try to bail water out now. May as well use it ... your tax dollars did help build it. Just keep a open mind about what it is, and use what you want while not sharing what you do not want. Yes I am labeled as a conspiracy theorist and I wear the hat with pride.

I agree with desoto 1939, thanks Sam Buchanan I think I opened a thread on this once but never really got a solid answer on it. I may just go ahead and leave my brass plugs in for now. I did put them in dry and they did leak a bit, I think they are no longer leaking at this point. I have the new steel plugs sitting here on the bench. Maybe is just the little devil in me. I am only the care taker of this truck, preserving it for the next person when I am gone. I think it would be selfish of me to deny the next care taker the enjoyment of replacing the soft plugs in the future .... ?