Los_Control

I have a bucket of carburettor parts cleaner here. Thinking to let the cylinder and pistons soak over night ... anyone see a issue with that?

I am curious if any have had luck rebuilding the existing wheel cylinders. I really question the quality of the new replacements available. If I thought they were great, I would not even ask, just replace the ones I have. Something is telling me to try and rebuild what I have. They are crusty, not see'ing any real pitting in the bores. They still need to be honed out and will pickup a hone tool tomorrow. They really are questionable after sitting 20 years. Back in the day when I knew everything, was 16 years old and worked at a Texaco gas station. I would leave the wheel cylinders on the car, gut and clean them, then hone them and install new cups. If they needed a lot of hone'ing to clean up, just installed the next larger sized cup. Pretty sure this is what I will need to do with my wheel cylinders. They do not have rust or pitting, just old fluid and gum .... I want to see if napa has the parts I need to rebuild them tomorrow, same time wondering if would just be better off ordering new chinese junk.

Thank you, and all is good. Wife is getting a minor surgery on her back. Nothing life threatening, just a 2 hour trip one way to get to the Lubbock spine clinic. Since I will be in town, trying to get my wheel cylinders off on the B1B to pick up parts while in town

Many cars have been built starting from less

I agree with you. I think that this is a modern way to correct a few issues that the older charging systems had. I would think it to be a upgrade like disk brakes over drum brakes. Still not original and depends what the owner really wants. I thank you for the link and did bookmark it for future reference if needed.

It will take a bit of time to really tell. Driven it as much as I can the past few days. Friday it was still putting out a few wisp of smoke, I was thinking that it probably does have bad valve seals at this point. Was going to report back that info. But then today and Saturday, I hot rodded it around a bit and can not see any smoke again. Watching at the first start in the morning, nothing ... rolling down the highway and just nail it to the floor, nothing.The oil looks nice and clean. This is normal for this truck in the past, the only time it would smoke is at extended idle. Then a day or so of normal driving and clear back up. I honestly was confused as what was causing it. The only test left to do, is let it sit and idle and see if it starts smoking again .... Jeez I am such a chicken It runs fine as is leave it alone. Going to give it a week or so, clean the fresh air return line out and then try again. I just have no clue what permanent damage could be caused from running the motor that way. Got a few 4 hour road trips coming up, minor medical procedure for the wife, tomorrow we take her car for the AC, next month be taking the truck.

are you referring to hog rings? If so you can find them at Lowes, home depot tractor supply etc...

A big difference between a 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton is the brakes. The 3/4 ton has 11" brake drums with a 5 on 5 bolt pattern for the wheels. The 1/2 ton has smaller 10" brake drums with a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. I have no clue if the spindles would be the same, the backing plates would be different. My 3/4 ton had a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern on the front .... I just assumed the farmer installed a 1/2 ton axle on it. The rear end besides the bigger brakes and bolt pattern, also had larger lug studs 9/16" that took lug nuts, instead of the 7/16" lug bolts the 1/2 ton uses. I did have shocks, not sure if it had more leafs then a 1/2 ton though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilton-Bullet-Vise-4-5-Jaws-9450-Completely-Restored-And-Polished-1968-Vintage/174041515892?hash=item2885aec774:g:AwsAAOSwNhJdiWE1

What condition is the tank in? You did not mention it, but if lines are due for replacement I would imagine the tank needs some attention. Could be a piece of crap floating in the tank, and getting sucked to the line and plugging it up.

nothing wrong with experimenting with the wires. I learned the hard way to put it on TDC and then check. Mine actually would not start when rotated one position either way. Is actually pretty easy on these engines, Pull the pipe plug over #6 cylinder, rotate engine by hand, when compression comes out ... then use a wire to get piston at TDC. Now you have #6 on TDC, your rotor should be pointing at #6 wire. Just start wiring it from 6 instead of 1. Just simple on these engines, just pull the 1/8" pipe plug and use something to tell where the piston travel is. Do not even need to pull a spark plug. Just my experience, maybe your engine is in better condition and will run if the wires are rotated one position off, mine wont.

Looks great, sure you know the original comes with a dab of red paint. And yours looks good without it. Then I was wondering what it would look like if you had some left over paint from your truck and painted it same colour? either way it looks great!

I like what you are saying here ... I have a reproduction floor board for my pilothouse ... is so thin I cant use it as is, Think I will add support and then screw it in for future transmission access. Given a choice, I really want it to be removable.

Los raises his hand and offers to weld. Like I told my neighbour when I fabricated a few parts for his 1954 shoe box. My welding sucks, rather practice on your car then mine

I pulled the steering wheel back off and replaced the horn thingy, took the dog for a drive. Got home and let it idle some, issue came back .... I really think that a engine is a air pump, and obvious my air pump was not getting correct air intake. Trying to figure out in my mind what damage that would cause? I am going to go ahead and add the mmo to the crank case, take it for a good drive 45 min ... Fill the gas tank and add the sea foam there.GTX 10/40 come home and change it while it is hot. Then I will have my own opinion about the snake oil. Still scratching my head and wonder how this thing even ran. Makes sense, it had been parked in a storage shed for over 2 years when I bought it. Why the exhaust was coco brown when I bought it. But while stored, rodents moved in and clogged the air delivery system. What I do not understand, how it ran so good when it was not getting proper air delivery. The truck is not special or a built engine, but it is a challenge to keep from spinning the tires in 1st gear, The next goal is to not spin or chirp them when hitting second gear. The chirp is just to easy and happens often.(I paid $550 for these tires, want them to last) It cruises at 80 mph in 5th gear just barely touching the gas. It may just clear itself out with some drive time, since I already have the products and 1.5 quarts low on oil, going to try them any ways.

And for a quick test, I can already tell a difference. Will it solve it? I dunno. With it idle in front of the garage, it was real rich and gas you out, I have to turn on the fan and pull fresh air in. Running as it is now, I do not need the fan to clear the air. But not able to drive it on the freeway to clean it out yet, I need to fix the horn issue I created when I fixed the turn signals ? But letting it idle in the driveway should clean it out if that really is the cause.

That is a good question, and it brings up a bit of a mystery. My first thought is no, it looks like it is brand new Now the question is, why does it look brand new? That air filter is close to 2 years old, looks like I just pulled it out of the box. With the amount of miles I drive, not a lot but several road trips. There should be at least a little bit of dirt on it. There is not a spec of dirt anywhere on it. There should be some. A second photo shows the air cleaner housing, how it connects into the fender and has a duct system to the front grill area, I wonder if this is clogged? And causing the issue?

I should have but did not, a new one cost $1.99, and if it cured it would know ... I also wanted to show a short vid, why I am not thinking valve seals. While being concerned with the pvc side, I have not checked the other valve cover. Looked at it this morning. It has a straight tube with no valve coming out of the valve cover and connects to the top of the throttle body. This hose is full of oil. I assume it may be my issue. In my twisted thinking, I would think that hose to connect to the air cleaner housing, not below the air cleaner. If this is correct, then possible I have the wrong valve cover with no baffle? It should have a pcv installed? I never seen a car with 2 pcv. But I think I am going to run it out on the freeway to clear it out, plug the throttle body hose and try again.

Then today, because I let it idle in the driveway, you can see I could rent myself out for mosquito control. As long as I dont let it idle, it never smokes ... let it idle and it is pumping oil quickly into the cylinders. I think the smoke may be to much for just leaky valve seals ... I could be wrong though, if one completely failed. I now just need to take it out on the freeway for a short time, will clear the motor and I will not see any more smoke, until I let it sit and idle again. With it smoking as it is, I pulled the new pvc and was watching for blow by, There was a very small amount. But because of the extra oil in the cylinders burning at the moment ... ???? I need to take it on the freeway and clear the motor, then check for blow by again. At this point, kinda thinking to pull the intake, then the heads at the same time and have a machine shop go through them. .... assuming no blow by when it is cleared up. The amount of blow by at this time is hardly detectable, does not increase with throttle response. I wonder what the machine shop will suggest?

Not sure what to think now ... I made a couple short vids just to show what I am seeing. This vid I did not rev it up, but it is not smoking, I could rev it up and still not smoke. The last time I seen it smoke before today, was a few months ago when I got stuck in road construction.

sure sounds like it is burning oil, and under acceleration it could be a ring issue. I once had a engine rebuilt, and it smoked when I got the car back on Friday. I drove it and put about 2 quarts of oil in it and it was still smoking. On the Monday after Jan 1st. I brought it back. It turns out they installed the rings upside down. Was the Friday before Christmas and they worked late to finish all jobs to take the week off after Christmas. They had no issue taking the engine back out when I told them I had already put 2 quarts of oil in it, they expected some oil loss while rings seating, but 2 quarts was just wrong. I hear some rings, maybe chrome molly? they take longer to seat ... Seems like a compression check is in order. Rings can stick to the pistons after years of sitting, then they wont expand properly to seal. The rings need to move freely in the groove. If they are frozen, it might do exactly what you are describing. A compression check may tell you that 5 cylinders are working correct, and 1 cylinder has very low compression. In this case, you may be able to fill that cylinder with some marvel mystery oil or something else, and get the rings to free up. Same time, if all the cylinders are low on compression, I would suspect a bigger issue and a tear down to find it.

Ok I was wrong, it looks like I have 6 bolts on each side. Just watched a video showing the 4 bolts on the intake. I also have 2 bolts in the center. This would be correct for 1991. At least the engine is correct vintage.

sounds like a worthwhile mod. I had cars in the past, chevy with bad valve seals. A tell tale sign was the puff of smoke every time you started it when cold. Also I am not using oil. If I drive it normal and no extended idle, stays right on the full mark. It will burn a quart real quick if I let it idle though.

It does have only 4 bolts per side. I am leaning in this direction. Curios if there would be any obvious signs of the manifold leaking? Seems to me it might act like a vacuum leak, or rough or high idle. I will have to do some searching on this. Thank you for the help on this. I wish it was the pcv, would be a simple fix .... I usually do not get that lucky. I replaced all the rubber hoses on the truck when I bought it, just a simple hose from the base of throttle body to pcv. I imagine it is correct routing. Going in to town in a few and will pick up a new. Just checked the old one and it does move freely. Thanks for suggestions I think Mack may have nailed it with intake leak.

Looks like a bigger job ahead. Just thinking about my older 327 chevy and the valve seals were always bad. You start the motor in the morning and puff out blue smoke. This motor never smokes, except when sitting for long idle. I do not mind doing the work ... just trying to figure out in my mind what exactly is going on before I tear it down and work on it. Then make the best choice on a repair. Not even sure what motor I have, it is a 350. I need to check the numbers. The rear end and trans is from a 2004 or newer, I suspect engine came from the same truck. Now I am thinking that the drivetrain has been changed, which means a newer motor with the older throttle body intake installed. And I have to double check tomorrow if they plumbed the pcv in correctly? In another forum, the possibilities are. Pcv stuck Plumbed in wrong Intake manifold leak Vacuum leak I am starting to wonder if maybe a mis match of parts making pcv inefective.