Los_Control

I guess thats where I have a issue. I am that guy that would do the job for you ... I just have a issue about hiring someone to do it for me. I let the mechanic replace my tires, rebuild my exhaust, and front end alignment. What really sucks, I refuse to let anyone work on my house. This meant I dug by hand and replaced 110" of sewer pipe ... this year ... them "damn plumbers" not touching my house! I only have 20' to go to get to the city sewer line. Working well as is. I just cant imagine hiring someone to work for me. Not saying it is always bright ... I do question if I would use a pressure washer as much as needed to cover cost.

Pretty rough on them, being parked with no carb. Everything just goes straight into the cyl/pistons. I hope others have opinions. I might want to just go ahead and pull the head on that one. At Napa, I bought a complete engine rebuild gasket set for about $120 I would not order it before looking at the engine. Pretty simple to pull the head, then look at the cylinders and soak them then. It might save you a lot of time and grief. Do you have any idea how long it has been since last driven? You want the carb mounted as a first layer of protection, then you want the air cleaner on the carb as a second level of protection. You have neither. Does not mean the engine is shot, but it has been open to the weather for as long as the carb has been removed. This is one of the few times I might suggest removing the head and go from there. See how bad the cylinders are at this time. This would be a good example, the engine was fine. The carburettor needed rebuilt so they pulled it and then bought a $100 newr car instead.

This is kinda what I am wondering ... I got 5 jobs right now I would use it for, then I kinda wonder if I would just live fine without it, just do the same jobs without the pressure washer. I actually just think that I might use it a few times, then park it in the corner and maybe never use it again. I actually already dealt for a metal shed, 12' x 16' and I just need to go pick up the pieces, I only want the metal siding and roofing. Then I would have space to park extra tools. We have to worry about rattle snakes around here ... I will wait for cooler weather before picking up what I bought. I was wondering, if after you bought yours, you actually started to use it more then you expected.

Thing about these old flatheads, if taken care of, they were very dependable. They do not like to rev over 3600 rpm. I gave away a 52 suburban last year, my grandpa hot rodded it and spun a bearing. The rod was frozen to the crank since 1961. Just saying, soaking the cylinders would never free up that engine. But quite often, these cars were parked for different reasons. The owner died The brakes went out the wife did not like the leaking windows the radio quit working I dont like the paint color Back then it was so easy to buy another newer car, they just parked the old ones. I bought a 68 chevelle 327/pg for $100 Drove it for 6 months and gave it to my sister who drove it for 3 years. I bought 57 chevy wagon for $75 and drove and sold it for $150 My 1969 mustang fastback I paid $700 for, more then I like ... drove it for several years and passed it on. Just saying, back then it was cheaper to buy a new (used) car, then fix the brakes on your old car. You just need to figure out why they parked this car.

Where are you with trying to start the motor, what steps have you taken? 1, does the engine turn over by hand, or is it stuck. 2, do you have spark? 3, how long has it been sitting, I would suggest changing the oil first. Just trying to pick your brain a bit, see what you have tried so far. Which areas would be best to help you with. Myself, I would want to prepare the engine and start it, just to get a idea what condition it is in. If the motor is stuck, you can add some oil to the cylinders and soak them for several days or 2 weeks, and work on other parts of the car.. If it takes longer then that, you may have to pull the engine and consider a rebuild. At least disassemble it and see what is re-buildable.

Just curious how often you guys use your pressure washer? Could you live without it? I have been thinking about one for awhile. I have been brushing off the idea, really just do not have the room to store it at this time. I figure I can live without it, until I get my back yard shed built, will have more room then. Seems like every time I turn around, I have another use for the pressure washer. My question to those that have them, do you really use them? or is it a tool you used a few times and it sits in the corner since? On my list at the moment 1, My house exterior is dusty, could use it and would look better. 2, I am a handyman for a friend on his brick rental house, it really needs it, he wanted to paint, I suggested pressure wash. I would actually make money with the washer here. 3, I really think it would help my 49 dodge, just preparing it and getting it cleaned and ready for paint & driving. 4, Last week working on my 1991 daily driver, brakes and u-joints. The frame looks rusty. Then I realize it is red mud, and the frame is actually pretty nice. A good washing and spot painting would go a long ways. Same with the front suspension. Just starting to think that I would use it more then I thought I would, and make room for it in my small stable.

My 2 cents, do the basics on the motor and start it. Then decide. If it runs 1/2 way decent, then move on to other areas of the car, brakes, fuel delivery, transmission etc. Just get it where you can drive it. The front suspension and brakes on these cars if in good working condition, work very well. Thats my opinion and my plan of attack, get it on the road and then do upgrades in the areas you are not happy with. Depends on your driving habits, you may never be happy with a stock flathead car, but if you have a good running engine, you can sell it to help pay for the swap. You can drive and enjoy the car, while collecting info and parts.

Everybody above is correct, #1 on tdc. Because we have the inspection plug on #6, I just found it easier to pull the pipe plug, rotate engine by hand, when compression came out of the small pipe plug hole, I then used a wire through the hole and rotated engine til 6 was tdc. Then installed my wires starting with #6 This is backwards from what we are taught, I just thought the lil pipe plug hole was handy and took advantage of it. Also add that my #1 ended up in the 6 0'clock position, meaning the oil pump is not installed right, but works fine.

Have you verified that the line or the tank is not plugged? A simple test would be a 1 gallon gas can sitting on the ground, then run a rubber line from your pump to the can. If it now pumps fuel, your issue is upstream. A electric pump will not fix it. It seems plausible ... A cam can be worn enough to remove the test paint, but to worn to actually move the lever enough to pump fuel? I would think you would want between 2 - 4 pounds fuel pressure. Pretty sure you will want to invest in a quality fuel pressure regulator along with the electric fuel pump. I think I have read that they make some low pressure pumps just for carburated cars ... Think I would want a good regulator anyways. Just my opinion.

$7000 canadian looks like about $5.3k us Dollars. A running driving truck with title seems reasonable. Still need more info on what a updated running gear means, and photos of the quality of work done. Needs to be safe. Goal would be to not have to re do the work that has already been done. Not knocking it, just be sure to check welds and quality of the work on any modified areas when you look at it.

Thing with 6 volt wiring, it is heavier and required to be so, for 6 volts. You can re-use all your 6 volt wiring when switching to 12 volt. I still think your wiring you posted can be replaced, but it is heavier then needed for 12 volt as is.

Thats great news, these old engines ran non detergent oil and could cause issues down the road when adding detergent oil. Might be a good time to run a compression check. My first dodge flat 6, had 5 stuck valves in 5 different cylinders. Pulling the head and oil and rotating the engine, had just one valve that was stubborn. Big difference between 20 years and 35 years, my current project started right up and has one sticky valve after sitting 20 years. Just saying, I might run a compression check on it first. Maybe pull the covers off the side of the engine, oil the valves and get them working. No need to pull the head at this time. My point is. When I pulled my head, I rotated the engine and valves would stay up and not return. I used a plastic hammer and oiled and whacked em, but it was not the proper way. I got 5 valves freed up this way, # 6 valve was really stubborn. The real issue was stuck lifters. You should remove the covers on the side of the engine, then oil the lifters/valve guides. Then pull the head later if you think it is needed. My engine sat in the field 20 years, and started /runs ... do a compression check before you pull the head. If you have common stuck valves, will be this area to clear it. You can run the engine and spray oil in the lifters with the covers removed. You can not run the engine with head removed. Or just pull the engine and do a rebuild. Pulling the head does not get you to the lifters to fix the stuck valves.

I bought my rustyhope kit for a different now defunct project, hoping this new project I do not need it, but is here if I do. Olddaddy always responded to me when I asked questions. Not sure what proper procedure is to pass the kit and instructions on to a new owner. But it is a possibility I may want to do this someday. Maybe just let it sit on the shelf. I understand the reason to not share shop secrets ... same time it may be required. I love you and thank you ... More then likely will end up being pay for shipping and will send to you. I just need to be positive I do not need it first.

near as I can figure out, whats more important is to match the size of the master cyl bore, with the wheel cylinders, and the cylinder size depends on disk or drum, then match the proportioning valve to fit the parts you have. We can take a pilothouse truck, set it on semi truck axles/brakes, then use a wilwood master cylinder and proportioning valve and make it work. We just need to know what size bore and valve to use. There is a science to this formula. (just a stupid example, needs more then this) But you get my point. Something simple like scarebird and stock rear drums, if this is not working, there is something else wrong. A good example, the builder put the calipers on the wrong side, now the bleeder screws are on the bottom. no way to get the air out of them ... bleeder screws need to be on top. And if we have no leaks in the system sucking in air ... then they should be able to build hydraulic pressure. I just have to assume the builder did bench bleed the master Otherwise, either bad or wrong parts?

This is 100% correct. Before you drive it, you will want to drop the pan and scrape out all the gum. To start and run mine, I put in Castrol 10-40. Then changed it again after running it a few hours in the driveway The gum will get sucked up into the screen, block your oil flow and ruin your engine. But this gum will need some drive time and really heat up the engine to break loose and let the modern oil clean it. 35 year old oil makes for a really hard sludge. Do not skip the step to drop and clean the pan, After you determine what you will do with the engine. Then when you are driving it, this question will create 10 pages of every bodies personal opinions on oil ... right now just clean oil and start it.

Early corvettes did not have power brakes. They had 6 cylinder engines and drum brakes. If you buy a scarebird front disk conversion. Then you keep stock rear drums, then buy a Wilwood master and proportioning valve. I would totally expect them to know their business and sell you the correct parts. If the parts are wrong or bad, and they will not back up their product ... I will mark them off my list of buying parts from. I also read that many dodge truck owners do the disk brake conversion up front, then use a jeep cherokee rear axle in the rear with drum brakes. Then use the master cyl & proportioning valve to match the year of the jeeps. I imagine the proportioning valve from the jeep disk/drum combo would work for the scarebird disk/stock dodge drums combo. Reading your original post, sounds like you did everything right. I could ask stupid questions, did you get the calipers on correct side and the bleeder screws are on top? My humble opinion, I would move forward, kick Wilwood to the curb, use a known working product. Rather then go backwards and use original single stage master. Maybe actually research the bore size of master cyl and proportioning valve size, for a early Cherokee with disk/drum combo and see what they used. Only because, I have read many used this combo with no complaints. You may find you just need to change your current valve, or your current master cyl is junk. Also there is a large crowd around jeeps and makes the info easier to find.

Just be aware, these are for a 1/2 ton truck, 3/4 ton and larger trucks I believe are bigger and actual studs and lug nuts. And these old dodges used left hand threads on the driver side, right hand threads on the passenger side.

This is what the original look like. Seems like previous owner ground the rivets off of the drum. This is a mod that makes it easier to remove the rear drums without a puller. Another mod is to tap threads to correct diameter, install modern studs with lug nuts. This photo is from DCM and they sell them. https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/558-br-277-lug-bolt-lh-each.html?search_query=wheel+lugs&results=1

Something that crossed my mind the other day. You did mention the wiring is not in great shape, is it possible the previous owner ran a jumper wire to the coil ... (hot wired it) just to demonstrate it runs? I also did not read if you actually used a test light to see you have power going to the coil & distributor with the key turned on? I just use a standard 12 volt test light on mine, not as bright with 6 volts, does the job. Just saying, if you do not have power to the distributor, you wont get spark to the plugs. Also be sure and check the short jumper wire in the distributor. The cloth insulation falls off and it can ground out. Perfect time to address it while out.

My truck title has the name of previous owner on it. Shows the name of the dealership it was bought from in the 1970's But he died years ago, then the son had the truck and then sold it to the guy I bought it from. Nobody bothered to switch the title to their name except me. The lady who switched the title for me, was kind enough to make a copy of the original title from the 70's for my records.

I did a bonded title here in Texas a few months ago on a Dodge Dakota. Cost $150 but pretty painless.

Big project, hope someone saves it.

How soon you think will take you to get back on the road?

I only mean, the only way is to pull it and visually inspect it. Low miles means you have a great chance of it not being worn out. But because of age and storage, you just have no real idea until you inspect the part. Too many options of why it could be bad. One example, was a old moonshine car, went through creeks ... sat with water in the system. Just saying, nothing is standard on these old cars. Without looking at it, we are just guessing and hoping.

To me, the manuals are something solid and you can touch them and read them. They seem more permanent to me. The digital is a source of info that can disappear ... very handy to have. Yes I backup as needed.