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Tony WestOZ

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About Tony WestOZ

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    To many


  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Interests
    Dodge trucks and Italian motorcycles

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Self employed. Jack of all,master of none.

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  1. Generally speaking if a PCV is being used then there in no filter on the oil input tube. The filter is replaced with a cap. Power Wagons are on example. The air being draw out through the PCV is purely that has by-passed the rings, valve guides etc. It keeps the sump in a state of vacuum. Tony
  2. Have to agree with you Merle. Anything is better than nothing. From trails I was involved with in the 90`s the cleaner you can keep the oil the better off you are. You can increase service times and decrease engine wear. Moak, are you after a complete unit or just the filter to suit? Tony
  3. 1 being the output and 2 being input (missing line) there was something in there. I have never seen an oil cooler on trucks, may be there was an other filter. Is 3 the return from the oil filter in the pic? What port does the input come from? You could plug 1 & 2 but you have to remove the by-pass plug between the two. The sump has to be removed for this. Or take a line from 1 and turn it back into 2. Or fit new lines and a filter. Can you take a pic showing the whole engine? That filter looks to be in a strange position. Tony
  4. Looks to be an interesting engine. I have never seen carb inlet or a water outlet like those. T214 is for 1942-45 but SR has me intrigued. Wander if its for something else Dodge supplied engine to. I understand how NOS engines can be a bit confusing. Mine had no engine number.
  5. Your block appears to be a 1400229 so its full flow. For a full flow setup oil comes out of port 1 (yellow) goes through the filter and then returns to port 2 (red). Oil for the pressure gauge can be taken off ports 4,5 or 6. Note the plug between 1 and 2 (BLACK) must be in position to force the oil through the full flow filter. You can fit a partial flow or return filter but things change. The plug between 1 & 2 is removed. No1 port is blocked. Oil to the filter is usually taken from port 2 but can be taken from 4,5 or 6. Oil from the filter is returned to port 3 (blue). Oil to the gauge can be taken from whatever red port is not used. Tony
  6. You mean I have been fooled all these years.
  7. I don`t do facebook so have never posted there but you could try, Fargo,Dodge & Desoto Trucks of Australia. Someone may be able to help. I tried to post a link but I failed. Tony
  8. This is way I suggest a second hand stick welder. I don`t know how big Manitoba is but here for less than $50 I`d have something. Gloves and helmet yes. Jacket, the only time I`d wear a jacket is in production situations. 8-12 hr a day stuff. A cotton long sleave work shirt is fine. Cotton trousers and cotton or wool socks. NEVER wear synthetic stuff at all welding or grinding. As mention check the local welding shops they might have something secondhand. I prefer to deal with a local supplier. It might be a bit more expensive but it gives you somewhere to go if things go wrong. Tony
  9. The 230 in the Power Wagons ran a crank vent system.
  10. OK, Take a small air compressor to pump up the tires. You will get away with a cheap 12 volt one. I have had 70 year old tyres hold air long enough to get them on a trailer. Don`t forget the truck spare. If one on the truck is not staying up the spare might come in handy. These trucks have left and right hand wheel bolts, so beware. Check the handbrake ring (back of gearbox) These can be a bit sticky. You can undo the ring if the cable has seized. You might be lucky. Being inside the whole time it might not take much to move. Then again..... Load on trailer nose first them move around to get balance right. I like about 50kg on the towball. What sort of tow vehicle are you going to use. There is going to be 2,500 kg of truck and trailer behind you. Look into trailer hire. Some companies have a lot of restrictions on there use. Max weight, distance travelled, one way, two way and more. Look into getting it move professionally. You will still have to prep it for moving but taking all things into account it might be a better way. just a few thoughts for now. Tony
  11. Is much blue smoke is coming out the exhaust at idle or high revs? A little trick is to run down a hill in top gear with little throttle then accelerate. Check to see if any smoke is coming out the exhaust pipe. I find these flatheads can breath a bit at the best of times. The first flat head I rebuilt was down to 60 to 70 on most and about 45 on one. It was still running ok. I just used a lot of oil and petrol consumption was getting rather high. I would not be too worried at 90.
  12. In the last couple of months I have started to revise what advice I give to others. After a lot of years of collecting I have shed full of stuff. 4 welders (5 if you include oxy welding), 2 drill presses, lathe, draws full of hand tools etc etc........ And I would like to think a bit of knowledge has been gained along the way. To a large extent however I had forgotten where I started. My first vehicle resto was done with a small second hand stick welder, an oxy set and a small box of tools. I thought I was in heaven. I suppose what I am trying to say is buy a cheap second hand stick welder (maybe even a small mig) take it home and with some scrap steel practice welding. I know some people that have gone out spent good money on buying stuff and then decided they don`t like it. Sold it off cheap or it sits under the bench gathering dust. From what I have read through this thread is you will only be making up mounts and brackets for the drive line in the near future. All this will only be tack welded or bolted together on a temporary basis until its all done, checked and done again to get it right. Then armed with the knowledge you have gained go out and buy a good welder or give it to someone else to weld. Tony
  13. I have to agree, there is nothing worse than a 3 wheeled trolley. Luckily the engine I dumped on its side was a scraper. It did teach me a good lesson. Anything I build or modify has 4 wheels.
  14. Ok looking at the peddles, hand brake on the right, ignition switch and the bonnet with the top chrome bar you have a 108CD or 108DD. They were made from August 1955 through to July 58. (I have production numbers somewhere). With a tare weight of 1 ton 14 cwt (1-14-0 or 3808 lbs) with a 15cwt (1680 lbs) load capacity you end up with 2 ton 9 cwt (2-9-0 or 5488 lbs). That's a bit high as this model should have GVM of 5250 lbs. This model should have a two bar grill so it looks like the grill has been changed for some reason. Another thing that is wrong is the clutch peddle. The brake peddle is the correct type. Engine should be a 250cu" with a KEW 2B prefix on the engine number. It will be interesting to see what the ID plate says when you gey it home Tony
  15. Are you using the very thin ones? The thin 1.6mm and ultra thin 1mm are very flexible and were produced to cut thin sheet metal not for heavy work. With cutting a nut off a bolt instead of trying to go in behind the nut, cut along the length of the bolt down through the nut. When close to the chassis stop and use a hammer and cold chisel to split the nut then hammer the bolt out. Grinding in a barn full of hay would make me very nervous. Hope you have the fire gear ready. Sorry for going on, Tony
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