Los_Control

Yes sir, I agree. Cant thank 48 Dodger enough, and others like like them that have the talent to make a video of these old cars and trucks. They are very helpful to us that want to learn. And the videos will be around long after we are all gone to help future generations.

$4 is a bargain. I hate spending money for the lumber, but is still cheapest option I can find. Also I can make what I want. I was at tractor supply and looking at water and feed troughs, $100 - $200 each. looked at 1/2 whiskey barrels $50 each and super flimsy imitations made in china. I found some pots at another store for $8 each, bought 2 of them but they are only about 3 gallons. Finding proper containers for a sensible price is a challenge. Need to get this box finished up today and planted, Saturday is coming fast

Repurposed wood is the best kind When I was working, I always had a pile of good used lumber laying around for projects. My first box is all used except for the sides, sadly 2nd box is all new as out of used. You will like the containers .... I saw yours and wondered WOW! wonder where he found those? They are a nice size and perfect for this situation. My first experience with containers was 3 boxes 8' long 2' wide. And I was sold on them every since. The way you have yours lined up, would be really easy to run a drip irrigation line right down the middle. Just turn it on while you go do something else, then try and remember to come back and turn it off ... or get fancy and put it on a automatic timer. Weeds will be much more manageable and just clean them out as needed.

Ok so I lost, was kinda interesting to see the bids jump from $76 and raised my bid to $90 and at the last few seconds it was raised to $100. Good tool and they got it at a good price, I just have to keep looking.

FWIW, I increased max bid to $80 and I had a new notification saying I was highest bidder and is now at $76 ... getting it figured out now.

And that makes most sense also, my other option is to buy a newer modern tool for over $100, while a good used vintage tool is probably a better tool. So I need to think what am willing to pay and either it works or does not.

AHHH! Ok that makes sense I apreciate your time to explain it.

I have used ebay a few times, always buy now and not place a bid. Today I saw a item and had 2 current bidders and current bid was $73, I put a bid in for $75. So as it sits, there are 3 bidders and high bid is $75. It ends in a few hours .... As soon as I placed my bid I was instantly notified I was out bid and to bid higher? The item is a blue point/snap on rear drum puller. For our old cars with tapered axles. Just kinda put off by the bidding process, item sat for 2 days at $73, and told to enter a bid of $74 or more, and as soon as I entered my bid for $75 am told to bid higher ... instantly, so the other bidder would have to been typing the same time I was? If I was notified 5 min later it would seem more plausible. Is it just a kawinki dink that someone else was bidding exact time as me? Or is this common practice? Just thinking I may bid a couple dollars more before it ends, no clue if bidding against myself.

May 12, Tomato produced it's first flower today. Still not everything planted, and 1/2 way done building second box. Goal is 2 boxes this year. Next year want to build a small deck around the stump. Then arrange the boxes in a horse shoe on the deck. Can build a wire fence from the ground to the boxes to keep critters out. Think it will work out nice and easy on the back to maintain, also water bill. Been several years since I have had a garden of any sorts, and first time in this zone, so will be a learning curve. I have had several gardens in the past. I like boxes rather then in ground. Will convert one box into a mini greenhouse and have fresh green salads all year long.

I ran across a old 48-53 pilot house bed that was converted into a trailer many many years ago. All gas welded, 60's or 70's? Since the trailer did not use the brakes, hoping have some good spares there. maybe even do a axle swap on it, to save/use the good rear end out of it. I imagine it has low miles also.

I have only understood it to be the travel of the push rod on the end of the brake pedal. You need some play or you will end up with sticking brakes. With the required play to prevent sticking brakes, you cant get all the air out, bleeding it on the car. So we bench bleed the MC to remove all the air. I guess I am just surprised bench bleeding a master cylinder went for 2 pages of answers.

Probably to late to the game ... will just say my 2 cents. I learned when I was under 20 years old, you need to bench bleed a master cylinder ... I really doubt modern tools such as a vacuum pump would replace bench bleeding a master cylinder. I may be wrong but not changing my ways.

That is a really good tip to know for all of us. Thank you. In this case, I am pretty convinced it is the top bearing on the steering column. After others have brought that bearing to my attention. With the front end on jack stands, all greased up, the drivers door open, I can hear a slight rumble coming from the cab area ... and the noise matches the roughness I am speaking of. I may be nit picking issues here, but I know something is not right and was not suspecting a bearing under the wheel. I know on a 70 year old truck this may sound unusual that the steering box is not wore out. Only clues I have is the truck seemed like it was well taken care of, right up until the owner was to old/weak to continue driving and parked it. Example is the front drums have almost no wear and never been turned ... they were replaced when still available. The Owner was a guard at the front gate of a gravel pit in a small town, this was his daily driver for decades. Title shows the PO bought it from Healer motor company in 10/08/1970. I was told the truck was parked 12 years ago, I suspect closer to 20. If he drove it for 35 years he must have taken care of it. While paint and body sucks, everything mechanical on this truck is like a dream.

Welcome to the forum, if you look you will see a classified section on the main page. Would be a excellent place to post a want ad post. Many are replacing the stock rear ends with a modern rear end. There is a chance someone may have them available for sale. Another option is to swap out the rear end with something modern. Depends on what your goals are for your truck. I plan to keep my original rear end as long as I can put up with the low gearing. JBNeal also post a thread link for another option. If you had a chevy or ford, you could just order one, with a dodge you need to be creative.

Is there a particular date set for this? I did pick up a new bottle of gas and some .024 wire for the mig, been to busy rebuilding the porch and getting the garden going to setup the welder. Was just getting ready to order some front shocks and a bushing from DCM for the clutch pedal shaft. Need to find a source for the E-brake cable, or a work around. Figure in a day or two, can finish garden and get the bare wood on the porch painted .... Then I want some truck time

The only person that said it was a condenser is me. This is the first time the issue has come up for the new owner. I have no proof it is a condenser .... I JUST HATE OFF SHORE IGNITION PARTS! I am biased and personally think this could be it. I will agree your post is great and offers a lot of troubleshooting tips, I appreciate it .... but me saying it is possibly a condenser does not make it so. TJ the original poster never said it was a condenser, and if it is it is only 1 time for new owner. Just saying, with the distributor cap off, should be able to turn the engine over and points get a consistent spark. If it is inconsistent, that cuts down 1/2 of the trouble shooting you post. Same time saying your post is good because tj gets a good spark with the cap off and we move to the next stage.

Seems like a bit of a tough call. Water filters are generally sold to filter the chemicals and sediments of incoming water. While you are using it to filter your pipes? IMHO, this just does not seem practical.You have a filter that only works for the cold water kitchen faucet. You still have bathroom faucets not filtered and any other items such as a ice maker. If I were to install a water filter, and would like to, I would install a whole house filter in a closet and connect it to the supply line as it comes into the house. Going this approach, I do not recommend it, something more like a fuel filter on a car is what you are looking for. Some filters have threaded ends, could build custom supply lines .... stupid idea, but you get my point. It would accomplish what you want, while a water filter really wont. If your pipes are still leaching sediment out, I hate to say it, but it may be time to replace them? My house was built in 1948, I also have galvanized pipes, while much of it has been replaced with pvc ... I am not having issues with sediment here though. I have no idea what year they stopped using galvanized in new homes, it was a long time ago. I am collecting parts and pieces, I am going to replace all my pipes with a modern product called pex. It is plastic, it is flexible, comes in a 100' roll. It is super easy to install. You crimp the brass fittings on the end, there is no glue or soldering. It will withstand a decent freeze, will expand and go back to shape when thawed. Plumbers call it a 100 year pipe and love it because so simple and forgiving to work with. Although it has not been around 100 years to test. Gas companies use basically the same product for over 20 years I know of, direct burial in the ground. Plumber would drill holes in the bottom of your cabinets to the crawl space, run the pex under the floor and come through the cabinet and terminate with shut off valves and same with toilet, through the floor. The bathtub faucet is a bit more tricky. You have outdoor hose bibs to deal with. My only point is, you do not have to open all your walls and do a complete remodel to add new pipes. 2nd floor is a different challenge. Last year I had a water bill going out of control, went in the crawl space and sure enough a pipe was leaking. Galvanized pipes at this stage are old like our trucks, you just never know when it will go haywire. My thought is to quit patching and replace it all while still young enough to do so. What it would have cost me for one plumber to come out and do the repair, I can buy all the parts needed to replace my whole house. And I can in my spare time install it, when it is finished just turn off my water and switch over to the new system. I already had to replace the complete sewer system under the house to the street. In my golden years, personal plumbing will be a bigger issue then house plumbing for me.

No guilt drilling them out

I am trying to keep my truck as original as possible. Because I have no confidence in todays ignition parts, am kinda thinking to convert to petronix or possibly go 12 volt and do the slant 6 distributor hack. Since all my driving, grocery, hardware, auto parts is within 10 blocks of my house am going to run points as long as I can. and keep a couple new condensers in the glove box.

I think it is the IAT-4012 number is all you need. Myself would write all them down and bring it with you. I would think napa has them or can get them next day, while Bernbaum I would love to recommend and have you send your money to them ... just a matter of convenience. Even if they only have the condenser in stock, I would bring it home and try it first .... what you describe I think the condenser is suspect. At least you will find out what the problem was. If you change everything at once and it works, you never really know. It could be the coil also. And napa should have that in stock. At least if you find out what part is bad, you can throw it away, the rest you can clean up and keep for spares in the trunk for emergency roadside repair?

seems likely a local parts store would have them or can order them. I took my distributor to my local parts store. Charlie I believe is a retired mechanic and a good man to have at the counter. He had the points and condenser on the shelf, when we opened the points and compared them, they were backwards from the points I have. He doubled checked his numbers and confirmed correct ones. He thinks that maybe someone changed the breaker plate in my distributor. I think he has the wrong part in the box. I just cleaned my points and never checked another store like napa. But they made these engines into the 1970's There is a good chance they would have them or can get them from there warehouse and have next day. I wonder what others think of Bernbaums quality? Far as I know all these parts are made over seas and seems that is all he will have also. Last set of points/condenser for a 1967 international I got from napa, condenser was bad out of the box, bought another and the truck ran a couple times and condenser died again. Went out to the shed and grabbed a used condenser and truck was fine then.

When you say for the season, I get the impression it has not been sitting for 20 years and running last season? Then I imagine that it has newer tuneup parts installed? We are just guessing here. It is very common for condensers to fail. Sometimes they are bad out of the box, sometimes they work for a short time then fail. Sometimes if they die slowly they will burn the points out. Just saying, condensers are always suspect.

It was troubleshooting advice to others, complaining about a random miss while driving, they tried everything and a few spoke up and said to check that wire as it would cause this? I only replaced mine because others said to, not because I had a issue.

Sorry that just seems wrong to me, seems sniper agrees with tj also. I remember reading post in the past telling us to be sure and check the insulation on that wire as it will cause intermittent spark issue. Very first thing I did while had my distributor out is replace that wire. I wonder if it makes a difference if +/- ground? The distributor is slotted like a small block chevy, very easy to pull the distributor out and put it back with the rotor pointing in correct direction ... just do not rotate engine while out. Then it is very simple to work on the distributor, very good chance the points need a good filing.

Guess I am just cheap, both prices seem high to me. I do not know the difference between a mopar 25" 6 and a Desoto engine .... was under the impression they were the same? I see now rockauto wants $80 for a Chrysler 251 also My dodge 218 24" engine, I bought a new fuel pump from napa for ~$35 .... might be worth a call? I kept the old one for future rebuild for a spare. Rockauto wants $40 or $50 depending which you choose, napa was still cheaper and got it the next day.