Los_Control

I just kinda doubt the difference between 5/64" or 5/32" would stop it from running. It may cause the float to over flow ... but not stop it from running. It may cause it to run like crap, but not stop it. You have something else going on. Now we need to figure out what else you did. Those little ball bearings that block the ports, those are important. They may be stuck, they are different sizes and one goes in one hole ... while the larger one goes in the Neighbors hole. Not impossible that the float is stuck and just flooding out, I suspect something else is going on.

This is why I am asking .... Tanks inc told me over the phone, that it did not matter. Maybe the lady confused me, maybe what she really meant was .... The sending unit does not care? She was pretty animate about not worry about 6 or 12 volt, it just did not matter on these old fuel gauge systems. I told her over the phone, I may switch to 12 volt in the future.

No but thanks, I was just wondering if there really was a difference in the gages, I do not have that system ... but wondered if the voltage reducer really was needed. I only questioned because am told a single wire system it is not needed, I think I now know with a 2 wire system it is needed. Sorry for interrupting the thread and thank you for your clarification.

I do have single wire sending unit on my truck, and I know some newer cars have 2 wire sending units ... thus my question. Is it the gage that needs reduced, or is it 2 wire sending units that need reduced?

Let me jump in and ask a question. I am just going by what "Tanks" told me when I ordered my new tank and sending unit. And this may only apply to single wire sending units? Or are they wrong? I told them I was staying 6 volt positive ground, and needed a sending unit to work with that for the new tank. They told me, My gauge does not care about the voltage, and the sending unit would work with either 6 or 12 volts. So I gather, we are sending power to the gauge, which does not care if 6 or 12 volts, and the sending unit sends a signal to the other side of the gauge. If this is true, why do we hook a resistor or a voltage reg in the system at all? I just assume, Tanks inc. is in business selling these products, I assume they know what they are talking about.

interesting ... not surprised, I think a computer power supply runs 5 volts to the usb ports. I imagine the charger has some resistor to drop the expected 12 volts down to 5 volts. In your case it is only getting 6 volts. What makes me wonder, is the positive ground system. I guess on a cigarette lighter, the power wire (negative) The charger does not care? Very cool, thanks for sharing that. My truck po added a cigarette lighter, I wanted to remove it. Now think will keep it and try the same.

Has anyone tried to restore themselves? I remember my mother sending me to the department store on my bicycle, to test the tubes on our tv .... then replace the bad ones. And I am a spring chicken, under 60 years old .... Is it really that hard to rebuild these radios?

Seems like only you can prevent Forrest fires .... sorry, old smokey the bear saying. Butt, you need to determine if it is actually flat glass or not. The different choices between USA and across the pond make it impossible to guess. If it is curved glass, I like PA advice to consider the body work to make it a split window flat glass. Maybe also consider lexan glass. Wont be cheap, but maybe might help .... something to think about. I watched some idiot on the internet form lexan in a heat booth to fit their windshield.

Have to ask yourself, what you consider "back on the road" ... New paint or something that starts and moves? Very possible, the brakes are shot, The engine valves are stuck, the tires need replaced, a couple wheels are bad ... the list goes on. Maybe, when it is delivered, will start up and run. I suspect you have a project, like many of us do have, and we enjoy having the project to put the ol truck back together. You will spend many enjoyable hours putting this truck back on the road. If for some reason you think you can do it for X amount of $, It would change as you went along.

Thank you for the reply. I did go to tractor supply, I see the paint is now called majic ... is that the brand you used? I dunno, possible it varies from store to store? What I did find, I had a choice between majic and rustoleum. I know nothing about majic and hear rustoleum will do what I want. So I bought A gallon of the rustoleum, and a pint of the majic reducer, then went to napa and bought a pint of hardener. Today I am preparing a new batch of pieces for paint, Trying to scuff the old pieces for a second coat. I just doubt today I will spray, suppose to be 107 today. If I prep I will be happy, then spray the second batch in the morning when is 70 degrees out. Then I can post a pic at least of how well the product applied, will be time that tells us how well it works.

This store does have paint mixing capabilities. I talked to them once about mixing up some touch up paint for my chevy. They can mix a quart or more, or put it in a aerosol can for me. Harbor freight or any other large store, home depot, a paint store like sherwin williams is a 3 hour drive round trip. That does not include driving around Abilene searching addresses. Just going to napa today is a 1.5 hour round trip. As Ken says, I may order it online in the end. But now the wife needs to go and she needs things, then walmart is going to be involved .... going to town ends up being a day trip Off I go...

I think I will probably be ok with tractor supply paint. I will go there first and see what they have available ... do they have reducer and fish eye? Then drive to the home and garden place, pickup some more sandpaper, see what they have available for paint. Then will stop by napa, will probably be buying the reducer and fish eye from there, some tack cloth. See what they have for a single stage paint. I just may end up buying everything together at napa, at least wont have to worry about mixing and matching products. I just have a mental issue about napa, When I lived in WA, the local napa had ridiculous pricing. A tire chuck to air up tires, was marked at $25 or something stupid like that. When you go to pay for it, We like you, you can have 20% off today ... why not just mark it at a reasonable price in the first place. So now I am gun shy about going to napa. So far here in TX, they have been pretty reasonable the few times I have stopped there. A year ago, I really wanted to do a real lacquer paint. Shopping online for the paint, the price cured me of that thought.

Thanks to everyone for the great advice. Reading Daves post this morning, I thought was good advice and search online for the instructions to exact product I have. "Ace rust stop enamel" I should use mineral spirits with it, which is a more refined version of paint thinner. Either one would work. Lacquer thinner does not mix with oil based paints! Then I found some reviews online, and a thread on H.A.M.B about this paint. Seems that most think the paint is crap. Guy spraying it is having problems, other replies from those that have used it, would never use it again and even recommend he sands off the first gallon and start over. Reading the data on the paint, says you can not spray it on bare metal. I am expecting to do this on some areas .... one of the advantages to a enamel paint. It is only $30 a gallon at Ace, cheap lesson. Think I will drive to town and buy a different brand. Rustoleum seems to be the standard for enamel paint. Tractor supply I think sells valspar? Valspar also makes a hardener that can use with rustoleum. I just do not know what brand of paint will end up with, I am limited to 3 stores. Tractor supply West Texas home and garden (small home depot) Napa Does anyone have a opinion on tractor supply paint?

I hate mosquitoes, they have nothing to offer me. But in Colorado City Texas, We have the Colorado river running through... I hate Mosquitoes . We have other bugs, today my stray cat ate a grasshopper .... I yelled at the kitten to get away from the grasshopper, !!!! Old 3 month old kitten caught & ate that bug, then thought it was special. Right up until it wanted to sit on my lap and kiss me ... Just a fact of life Life goes on, you cant blame the animals for doing what they do best Just do what you can.

I think I may need to go to napa and get a package. What I am doing is fine for the frame and rock guard panels , but body I want a little better quality for the body panels. I give it some thought, just possible a 18 year old kid at napa has no idea for the paint job am looking for. I really do need to switch to a reducer, and play some more .... What I have done, I am fine with it ... I just want to improve as I go.

You read it right .... I have 2 gallons around to clean stuff. I read Acetone is good, but in hot weather it dries too quick, Paint thinner dries slower and better in hot weather. So I used the lacquer thinner. The internet says to use paint thinner in hot weather for a slower dry time. Is there a difference between lacquer thinner and paint thinner? You see where I am going here, I did not know. I thought Lacquer thinner was just high class paint thinner. Maybe this is the issue I need to correct. Will adjust this for the next spray. I see DJ also jumped in and confirms this. I thank you DJ, and will fix this problem.

I honestly do not know, I thought you bought the fittings to match your lines, then the tool to match your job. Just saying, maybe it is not a big deal ... I would buy the tools and fittings to match the job and material/line you are working with. Years ago, while a manager in a bandag tire retread shop, Nothing more frustrating then replacing air lines with the wrong parts. This was not life threatening. Just saying, there are several different styles of fittings over the years. When you working on fuel lines or brakes ... There is top notch advice here in the H.A.M.B, I would be finding the exact info you need for the product you are installing.

I am a little smaller then wanted, but my local parts store has some pretty decent sized cables for the farmers and heavy equipment. I want 00 or 1.0, I think I have 2.0, but it actually works and off the shelf. It does work, like your 12 volt cables, you getting by ... if you ever had any starting issues, would be the first thing to be replaced. A quality welding shop, they can make you a set of supreme cables, Welding cables clamped to good battery post clamps ... wont be cheap, probably best you can get. Unless you can do it yourself, no reason why you cant.

.... ouch! will you come bail me out of jail PA!

Thanks DJ, That is my only goal, preserve it and drive the wheels off of it ... when I am gone, next guy can do what he wants. Wont effect me any. I think you may agree with me, The paint looks like a cats butt. What I did, I mixed the paint really well, then because it is hot triple digits I used lacquer thinner to thin it I dumped some paint in a coffee can and then dumped some thinner in. I was Leary about adding too much. Possible I just did not add enough thinner, and will smooth out with more. I just need more practice, but I think my first attempt is not body panel ready.

I did wet the ground before spraying PA, does that spray texture look normal for enamel? I am just not sure if that is what I should expect, then buff and wax to improve the finish? Just a work truck, I will be hauling tools and lumber with it ... it will work. When I connected the hplv gun, I could not adjust the regulator on it, I cleaned it properly a few months ago. So was going to pull the regulator and just set the reg on my compressor. Found some bug had moved into the air line and made a cocoon. So I cleaned the gun again I thought my spray pattern was good, my airflow set right ... just the texture of the paint I did not like. I dunno, If I want a old truck, that may be just the look I want Just wondering if anyone that sprayed enamel, thinks it should look like that.

Did I ever thank you properly for sending me the broken switch? It was exactly what I needed to fix mine. I really appreciate it. In this project, the paint is just long overdue neglected maintenance. I am not restoring. I did not separate surround and core support. Everything is actually cleaning up pretty good. In this project. And so far, I am pretty much breaking every bolt as I remove them, to be expected. That piece, was really bolted in well, it had some paint on it, it cleaned up well ... I just primed it as is. Because the nuts are welded to the core support, if I actually broke one and the bolts are a fine thread ... I might actually open a can of worms I do not want to deal with. And it is fine the way it is. Problem is, as is it is to heavy for my paint booth. I may end up taking it apart yet for paint.

And the paint booth

Squirting some paint, working ok for the parts I am spraying , splash pans, mud guards core support etc... For these items, pretty easy to get to bare metal, some areas not so easy. Then I use the sand blaster to get to areas I cant get mechanically. Then I spray with a rust converter "ospho" Prime and paint. Not perfect, but better condition then when I got it. something I am concerned about, I will have to play with it and see what kind of finish I can get. For splash pans and frame, I love it. For body panels, doors, hood etc ... not so sure if I love it. Seems like a bit of texture, I am guessing is the paint, not sure if can buff it out smooth then wax, is cheap enamel paint. I want cheap paint, maybe my expectations are to high. I really do want to stick with a single stage paint though, maybe I can play with air pressure and such.

As far as picking up the engine & trans in original post. Grab it, maybe you can find someone else that can use it, save it from the scrap yard. Not called hoarding, is stepping up to the plate and doing your duty