wayfarer

...you will need to provide alot more info than that........

I'd error on the caution and say 900. Shipping sounds like a job for Fastenal.....

Given that you lack everything needed to actually have rear brakes, why not put an Explorer assembly in there and be miles/money ahead?

sactownog, are you doing the work your self or paying someone to make it happen? If you have the time, talent, space, and equipment then options abound and at your own pace. If you are paying a shop to do the swap then have a definite plan and stick with it. Of all the various swap that I have seen, Robert Horne's Ranger swap has to be the easiest. No, it does not come with all of the t5 hype. Read through his thread before buying adapter parts that do not further your agenda. No one has questioned the shifter location; what is your seat configuration?

The numbering sequence listed is correct...odd, but correct. No wonder that old Mopes confuse folks... So, what do you have Mr. Keith ?

Expect to spend around $100/each for a forged piston. VPW has new ring gears, well priced.

Just a qualifier at this point in history... The design team was staffed by: Roland Osborne (RIP), Marty Algrim, Gary Pavlovich and myself along with a generous amount of help from the foundry operator, Javier Vasquez.

Andy, I got your message so I'll reply here in case others have questions. There are, no doubt, plenty of loose ends that still plague those folks trying to keep all of Rolands's balls in the air. It seems that he had his fingers in lots-o-stuff. As of this day there is a backlog for production. The foundry is the choke point and short of someone being there on a weekly basis to keep things moving the slow pace may continue for an underterminate time. I will suggest to anyone interested in a manifold that you should place the order and be patient. You will, at least, be in line.

Looking good.

There have been many swaps onto later frames and from the various forums that I visit the Dak seems to be the favorite due to a similar track width, fairy easy ability to shorten at factory splice points and, of course, it remains all Mopar. If your existing frame is severely rusted then a swap might be in order, however, the stock frame is plenty stout for most hot-rod applications. 500hp torque monster? even the Dak frame will need help. Also, if you doing a moderate street driver package you will find that the Dak IFS fits neatly to the stock frame.

Having gone through the process to get new titles for the three rigs I have for sale the only 'tag' that was of interest was the one on the door pillar. As mentioned, YRMY.

...of course that will vary with each state.

...wishing you well.... Be careful!

Most excellent! No doubt that it raises a few eyebrows.

You must be touching the sides now...last time I looked the difference was minimal, maybe a ½"..... What is the status of your car now?

The '93-09 Ranger 8.8 is 58½ wms to wms.

Any particular reason for the moly rings? Moly rings seat 'fairly' soon but 200 miles maybe not yet. Ring gap position is probably only a contributor. My usual ring gap install: top ring at 90°, second ring at 270° and oil rails split at about 160°/200° with the expander at 180°. 0° being the thrust side of the piston. Is the oil only on the back of the valve or is there a coating on the intake runner walls?

I'll let others opine on the trans questions, but as to a v8 swap, Yes it can be done and yes you can use the existing 4spd. The limiting factors on the v8 will be finding a v8 truck bell and then using a pre-62 A engine or EarlyHemi. It is possible that your existing bellhousing is made for both the L6 and V8. Look to see if it has the needed circular bolt pattern.

The only reason for oil residue to be found on the backside of the intake valve is that it is sucking oil....in addition to questionable seals you might also have too much stem clearance. As to varying compression numbers I would be wondering about the piston rings orientation when installed. What is the lifter part number?

Most folks will want to use the early 5-bolt assembly, 1986-1990, next choice is the first of the 6-bolt , 91-94?, which can be changed to 5 remote, remote, remote....

With regards to a rebuid on the Cummins, long ago when I had a '92 4wd, I talked with a Cummins rep and he told me that the 12v was easily good for 500k before I needed to worry so I traded it in at 400k...still running well. I'd say run it as is.

The 270 is a fairly compact assembly so this should be a relatively easy swap. As Andy mentions, the PF is a bit heavy but, when in good condition, a very adequate performer. The usual interference will be the exhaust manifold and steering column so move the engine/trans to the pass side...2" is not extreme. Oh yeah, move BOTH the engine/trans, not just the engine. The '56 is 12v but you can use a '55 starter and generator and keep everything 6v. The 'other' big questions are how well equipped is your shop? How much working space do you have? How are your fab skills?

Hi-teh, lo-tech or no-tech....sorta depends on the desired outcome. If kencombs wants something 'interesting' there are a multitude of options as we have discussed prior. The Chrysler version of the 'poly', which I prefer to call 'Spitfire' (since that is what is embossed in the valve cover) is one helluva a performer. With a FiTech efi on top it will do just about anything one would ask of it. The late 4.7 is under-rated by the hot-rod crowd but still a good performer and most folks will stare a long time trying to figure out what it is. Yes, a bit more complicated.

I'll try to keep this succinct....... All pre-62 V8 engines, as well as the L6 engines have an extended crank flange. The pre-62 A engines, and the various EarlyHemi engines, except for the 51-53 Chrysler 331, all share the same block bolt and dowel pattern. The V8 crank flange bolt pattern also changed with the 1962 model year. If you only redrill a pre-62 bell and relocate the dowels you will need a spacer for the crank flange and, you will either redrill an early flywheel bolt pattern for the late pattern or you will put an early ring gear on a late flywheel. Keep in mind that over-laying a late 6-bolt pattern onto an early 6/8 bolt pattern some holes will overlap. As to the bellhousing, most often, there will not be adequate material in the area where the new dowel needs to be. It has been done where locating dowels have been drilled in a 'new' area of the bell after 'zeroing' the bell to the crank. There is additional info on my web page.

The Walter P Chrysler Club national meet in Chattenooga, Tenn Sept 4-8 could be possible as I was thinking of hitting the Whisky Trail at about that time....maybe add a couple of days to the trip.