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wayfarer

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Everything posted by wayfarer

  1. wayfarer
    Here is a link to my web page with axle dimensions: http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=1023 If you can provide some accurate dim's from your Chrysler I'll add them to the list as a line item. 1964 was the last year for the tapered axle with the 'nut' on the 8¾; the 7¼ had a 'normal' flange. You can, and should expect to change spring pads to match your car. As Plymouthy said, if your donor has 5 on 4" wheel studs you will not find it suitable. Late model axles, Explorer/Cherokee, have multiple advantages and should be considered.
  2. wayfarer
    Since you live in an apparent 'mechanic desert' then you might want to start looking/asking around about serious hobbyists who have could help out....help you to make repairs, not necessarily do all of the work for you.
  3. wayfarer
    ...all of the above.....
  4. wayfarer
    ....aaaahhhh...the beauty of discs......
  5. wayfarer
    Plymouthy is on to something. With the multitude of car makes/models, even in Europe, it is reasonable to think that something, in terms of the rotor, will fit/work. Brackets to hold a caliper are pretty simple affaits. Non-power assist has been used on many front disc setups with good results. Obviously, you must have time and space to store the car while you get all of the pieces sourced and installed.
  6. wayfarer
    Have you looked into the costs associated with a disc brake conversion? Little doubt that freight is horrible for heavy stuff but if the end goal is to have the best possible braking then there are few options. If you have the time then perhaps there is a container headed in your general direction in which the needed parts could hitch a ride. I have heard many stories of cars being shipped to Europe that have a trunk full of 'spare parts'.... Perhaps one of the other Europe based forum members knows of an upcoming container.
  7. wayfarer
    I have to ponder the meaning of posting an official/unofficial 'notice' if/when leaving. If someone is 'done' then why not just reboot the 'ol computer machine and erase the browsing history so the website doesn't show?
  8. wayfarer
    Very nice!
  9. wayfarer
    I dunno....are you sure they will hold up...? ??
  10. wayfarer
    Since you are not a fan of the gm trans but like the TF idea then help is available, but only if you are not in a rush. I do make an adapter for the TF but don't have any in stock right now. The biggest issue with installing a TF (or any of the gm stuff) is that the adapter is at the block and everything that attaches to the existing bellhousing will need to reattached to the new trans in some sort of fashion. Lots-o-fab work. Additionally, you will have to reconfigure some part-throttle kick-down linkage to connect from carb to trans. Without this linkage you will quickly destroy the TF.
  11. wayfarer
    Looks good! Nice stance.
  12. wayfarer
    Real sorry to hear of your loss.
  13. wayfarer
    I'm with Mr Adams on this. I have done a few frame repairs over the decades and only used applied plates on the big trucks. We called them fiche plates; just a term passed down through the company from the days when the trip hammer was in daily use..... As well, we have used butt welded connections on many repairs, quite unlike what some of the internet geniuses require. There are a multitude of different connection conditions and each will have its own requirements. Basic rule: If a weld looks crappy then it probably is. If the buyer is not an accomplished welder then have it inspected by someone who is.
  14. wayfarer
    Common question and the best answer is, as Don says, is to callem'. Someone will correct me but, IIRC, the 7-pass are the Limo's and Suburbans with the additional jump seats.
  15. wayfarer
    Around here a 'decent' paint job will cost alot more than 'a couple of grand'..... Not having much detail on the rest of the car it doesn't look too bad and, just what can you buy these days for $9k? Like knuckleharley suggests, he might want to look real hard at the offer. If it has something other than a Mopar engine then he should take the money and run.
  16. wayfarer
    The 'window' in the lifter bore is fairly large so that it provided max oil supply to the lifter and as you question, a regrind will drop the lifter in the bore by 'x' amount. The issue is only in the amount of material that was removed from the lobe. It would have to be substantial to affect the oiling. The bigger issue occurs when a different lifter is swapped. Check the photo. It is worth noting that the HT2011 has been used in a multitude of rebuilds w/o negative affects..... As to the small vertical oil hole in your photo, it a hold-over from the old days of splash lubrication. The Chrysler engines of the same year did not have them.
  17. wayfarer
    The manual will not tell you how to deal with a stuck/frozen assenbly and the ensuing issue of the flywheel bolts. You will absoultly have to be able to rotate the crank in order to access the nuts on the backside of the crank flange or, remome the crank/flywheel as a unit...except that that does not always clear the con-rods. Fun Eh????????
  18. wayfarer
    Depending on your long term plans for the car, and since you have plans for front disc conversion, you might want to look at replacing the axle assembly with something a bit more user friendly. Explorer 8.8 is a good option.
  19. wayfarer
    What makes you think it is a 413? Valve covers? color? Is It an RB? How about a block casting nunber? Photos?
  20. wayfarer
    I think that a careful measurement will net 0.185". All of the early assemblies used a nut on the backside of the flange and I 'think' that all of the nuts are the same. (Today, these nuts would be referred to as 'small pattern' since they use a wrench that is one-size smaller than normal for the bolt size. ) I looked through a collection of nuts saved from many many disassemblies and all are the same height.
  21. wayfarer
    I'll offer a 3rd option, vaugely similar to the others. Even if flush with the surface, place a large washer over the offender and then run a weld bead around the ID. This is easier to do with TIG or Mig than stick. Then place a large nut on the washer and weld around the nut. As many times as I have tried to drill out a broken bolt, I have wasted alot of time and and never found the exact center Reverse twist extractors? I have never successfully removed a broken bolt with them.
  22. wayfarer
    Good to hear that some 218 had a FD option in truck applications! As far as I know, everything with FD had the eight bolts. So now I have to wonder if the 218 with 8 bolts has the same flange position as the 4-bolt crank or if MaMopar pushed the flange back to match the 230 crank...? Anyone?
  23. wayfarer
    As to the 4 bolt vs 6 bolt vs 8 bolt patterns....all are on the same diameter circle and all are on the same pattern so that part makes swapping around easy. I was not aware of 218 with 8 bolt crank flanges so someone please check me on that. You need to verify the location of the flange as the 218 is 0.185" closer to the block than a 230 flange. You can measure from flange to bearing journal for comparison to what is being offered. As to your crank, it is not uncommon to weld up a crank and go back to standard assuming that you are dealing with a crank repair shop not just a crank grinder.
  24. wayfarer
    Good that you spotted the thread and jumped in with the photos.
  25. wayfarer
    The Fastenal system works quite well. Drain the fluids, put 'it' in a 'box' and they transport from store to store. They call it 3rd party logistics. Not long back I shipped an engine from Oregon to Michigan for a total of $250....
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