wayfarer

You didn't mention what vehicle you are working on. Does it have a manual trans now? If so, pedals are in place. If not, then installing a pedal assembly from another vehicle will be a fairly major project in itself. Will you be able to fabricate new linkage? Perhaps use a cable system, or install hydraulic master/slave assembly? Are you planning to swap the rear axle assembly for something newer? If so, then the E-brake problem is mostly solved. You will need to install a longer cable from your handle assembly to the new rear. The rear axle assembly that you install should be matched to the width of the car to minimize problems with the wheels/springs. Measure your stock axle drum to drum and start comparing to later offerings. Type into your browser: "rear axle width information". Several useful sites will pop up with measurements of many donor cars/trucks. You might even find something that matches your spring perch width/size. Also keep in mind what bolt pattern you have and what is offered. Do you want two different wheels on the car? Regarding driveshaft, You will likely need to have a new one made. Some of the t-5 units have mechanical speedos, and, I think, the later elec types can be changed to mechanical with the correct pile-o-parts. And you heard right, the t-5 has been used in numerous cars and small trucks. The application affects gear ratios, shifter location, overall length, (bellhousing) bolt pattern, input shaft design, and more. Again, do a search for info. Hemmings (the magazine folks) did an indepth article on the t-5 some time ago and it should be required reading for anyone thinking of using the trans. This article will give a comprehensive list of vehicles using the t-5. Sorry that I do not have the article in front of me at this time to give date. However, do not abandon your info search until you read it!! If you truly cannot find it, PM me later. Gary

Your Orders Are To Pillage And Plunder, And Take No Prisoners With That 426....

...if you swap to one of them shiverlay injuns yullle havta join a witless protection programme...hahahaha

Even if your rig is 100% stock I doubt that anyone who actually drives theirs will give you any grief for putting on larger diameter tires so that you can drive yours.....hell, I'd look for some 17's...keep those rpm under control.

I have a 49 sedan and 2- '50 Wayfarers. The 49 has rust in all of the usual locations, but both of the 50's were pretty clean to start, minimal rust to repair. My surprise was to find that the 49 and one of the 50's had some major cracks in the frame at the inside portion of the coil spring enclosure.....if the frame has never been cleaned then it might be difficult to see cracks, if they exist, through the road grime. FWIW.

Any idea on the 'purchase price' ?? Even being 1000 miles away it has me thinking....

The diesel oils, Rotella and Delo 400, et al, still have more of the ZDDP than others but they have seen some reductions. Use the diesel oils. If that 12L Cummins likes it then I figure it will be good enough for my puny gas rigs. As far as the offshore lifter issues continue, and the issue will continue, then be sure to buy yours from a reputable source who actually cares.....there is way too much garbage quality offshore crap landing in our country, but as long as we continue to buy it, the stores will continue to stock it!!

Ditto.

Have you looked at the 360 pickup brackets? They could easily be modified to 'lay flat' if needed and still use the oem insulator. Assuming that you have some fab skills frame brackets should not be too difficult to make. I have a bracket that fits the early Hemi ears (and Poly 318) but I do not have a 360 handy to check the fit. I have attempted to include a pic but haven't figured out how to do this correctly...

Just ran across some 48 Ply pieces on an auction site called ePier.com look in the 'collector' section.

Are those shiverlay swaps even legal....?

Did you resolve your questions ?

same answer as at 'ol skool rodz... before buying and making parts I find it advantagous to get as much information as I can before I buy a pile of parts that may or may not get used. My training says to work it out on paper before that pile of shavings gets knee deep and my wallet gets paper thin....

...still looking for some numbers if anyone can help. thanks

Just looking for NUMBERS to compare the differences...

OK, found your link, but you have no dimensional or comparison info. If someone has an engine out, on a stand, etc., help would be appreciated.

OK Don, but linked below what ???

Can anyone provide some basic dimensional data for this flywheel issue? Flange thickness of each style and distance from face of flange to face of block of each. Many Thanks

Does anyone know if this 'fat' flange issue shows up with any other cranks?

NOT a waste of money. Since it will cost several 'large' to do a decent rebuild why not spend and additional $200-300 bucks and get the pistonsthat you want/need. Yes, a three ring design is the way to go. Yes, a bit more compression will certainly wake up a few sleeping ponies. There is no down side.

I was hoping for some good news like this. I am putting the finishing touches on a (small block) Torqueflite/ manual trans adapter for these flat motors and based the design on the 218-230 block.

New guy here, looking for some info. What are the differences, if any, at the rear of the various flattie blocks ? Do all of the bellhousings have the same bolt pattern ? Any info appreciated.