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Tim Keith

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About Tim Keith

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Dodge truck
    1947 DeSoto S11 Club Coupe
    1965 Valiant Signit
    1966 Valiant Signit convertible
    1964 Valiant coupe
    1985 Dodge D150
    1992 Dodge Dakota
    1994 Nissan D21
    1974 Datsun 620
    1978 GMC Sierra 4WD


  • Location
    San Antonio
  • Interests
    old cars

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    software engineer

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  1. The main caps were already stamped with a number, but since they're cracked - doesn't matter. This motor has probably been rebuilt. The SAE bellhousing is tricky to remove with the motor stuck. I'll get it off tomorrow. Someone may want this b/h. Should I save it for some special application? Its got 12 bolts on the back, not sure of the diameter. The flywheel doesn't have a clutch surface, or maybe it does - maybe its two-piece, but the exposed surface at the rear is cylindrical with a splined coupler.
  2. Its got a huge flywheel, which has proven difficult to remove with the motor stuck. I will lift the entire crankshaft out tomorrow, the flywheel bolts on from the front. I was told that the motor came out of the Ditch-Witch or similar large trencher. Some of the pistons can move, maybe all of them, but I could not turn the crankshaft. All the journals look good.
  3. The #2 AND #3 main caps are cracked near the bolt hole on the passenger side. If I used the block I'd need new caps. Is this a known problem on the 265? The bearings and crankshaft looks okay. The copper head gasket isn't solid. There is a fibrous core with thin copper on both sides.
  4. I removed the head. Its got a copper head gasket. I assumed that the copper would be green by now but its as shiny as a penny. The motor has the tower style oil filter that 265s have. If I can separate the block from its bell housing then I want to get the motor. I've read that the SAE bell housings are useful to some folks, so I might get that as well. The motor is stuck. A good way to free stuck motors is clean the cylinders with a solvent, blow it out with compressed air - especially down around the top ring, clean cylinders some more. Then, use a product like Rust Rescue or Evapo-Rust. These products can't remove oily material - using solvents first helps a lot. These products won't harm aluminum, but I'd be using new pistons anyway.
  5. I thought propane might have slighter higher compression from the factory. I'm sure if it does have a bit more compression, that the engineers didn't hurt breathing. I don't know if the motor is good yet, looks like its been outside for years. Its connected to what I think is a Dodge truck 2 speed differential with short 14-inch axles and chain sprocket for hubs and a PTO - some type of transmission with two levers - one must be a clutch. I couldn't get the bell housing separated, it has what looks like a round SAE type bell housing.
  6. Do propane industrial flatheads have higher compression?
  7. Thanks! I think it might be stuck - exhaust manifold is broken. Its got the power system with transmission/clutch - which I don't recognize. I may attempt to get the rotating assembly. I've got a couple 265 rotating assembles in my parts collection. Its just that its 100F and humid in south Texas and its sitting outside. I think it was run on propane so if its not stuck it might be a good shape.
  8. I have found a Industrial motor, IND-32 type 233. Does anyone know the displacement. The head is 25 inches long.
  9. This video posted yesterday by user Myvintageiron7512
  10. I did not know the starters were hard to find. I think the rear axle is a 3:54:1
  11. The motor had fully grooved main bearings. Was this stock ?
  12. Included is a Fluid-Drive unit, plus a regular flywheel, plus a manual 3 speed truck transmission and a semi-auto transmission. Seller said the manual transmission is for a 1937 truck. I plan to use one of George Asche's 833 o/d adapters
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