wayfarer

55 and 56 what?? Some big differences between the various make/models. And what, exactly, is the problem with whatever the oem engine happens to be? Dartgame, thanks for the nod!

Certainly a good swap and has been done many times in various configurations so you just need to sort out the details before you dive in. Troll through the search button and see what others have done. Here are 2: http://p15-d24.com/topic/22985-im-back/ http://p15-d24.com/topic/37426-360-magnum-nv3500-in-my-48-plymouth/

It is all in the math...and the available torque. Many 5-spd trans will have a overdrive ratio in the .7 to .8 range. If you simply multiply the rear axle ratio by .7 you get the 'new' effective ratio. The first gear ratio is also a concern so some balance must be struck or the 1st gear is rendered useless. Example; 4.56 x .7 = 3.19 Similar to what we had in the old days when MaMopar used 3.23 in nearly everything. However, if you put an OD trans behind the 3.23....3.23 x .7 = 2.26..... Not a good number when you are low on grunt to start with. It would certainly keep the engine rpm down but the driving results would be less than spectatular. There is a reason why the 3.9 and 4.3 gears were used behind small engines. Conversely, the 1st gear ratio would probably be happier with the 2.26 rather than the 3.23 or, worse, a 3.9 final. Here is a favorite on-line gear calculator so you can play with the numbers: http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/gears/gear_calc.html

Full groove bearing were once state-of-the-art for drag racing and such. I do believe that even NASCAR engine builders have moved away from any grooves in order to increase surface bearing and better maintain the fluid wedge. The usefulness of cross-drilling is a factor the oil system design itself. Some engines benefit more than others. The bottom line is that you need to have oil at all times at all places.

Some of the Ranger axles are too narrow. Check my web site for a list of axles. If you take the time to do a search on axle swaps you will find what is needed on the flange.

Unless the attachment point of the cable is moved away from the pivot then nothing is gained with the Lokar. Moving the attachment was my previous thought.

I'll add a couple of random thoughts. If you want a 5-6 speed manual then perhaps the best option, and one that can be done in your garage, is to follow Robert Horne's swap with the Ford Range 5-spd. The A-833, as great as they are, are not getting cheaper or easier to find, and they are still a 3+1. Oh Yeah, the linkage alone can be hundreds of dollars US. Just food for thought.... You should have a long talk with your favorite machine shop and have them price out a full overhaul of your 264 so you have a place to start making comparisons. Quite frankly, I am shocked by Jolly's rebuild costs. If you want a v-8 and 5spd then start looking for rusted out Dodge pickups, 1500 or Dakota, with the 318 or 360 Magnum and 5-spd trans. Some even had a Getrag 6-spd. You will require a new rear axle so look for an Explorer with the disc brakes you were planning on. Yes, a swap of this kind is not for the faint of heart as it will require some serious fab skills, but a bone stock v8 will have more power than any modified L head. And, if you don't want to muck about with the oem EFI then there are other intake manifilds available for carbs/throttle bodies. I'll stop here as I'm sure that some will disagree with my approach.

I don't have an early car in the shop to look at but wondering if a solution can be had by changing the attachment at the handle. Anyone have a brake handle laying loose that we can look at?

X2 on the pressure tank.

Yup, sure looks like a 'national.... I wonder if they had a GPS in the trucks.....

The Exploder brake should be easy to operate with existing leverage. Can you verify the actual amount of needed travel? And as mentioned, a bell crank will increase the leverage if needed.

Here ya go... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/mopar-flathead-6-distributor-upgrade-48-desoto.653565/

This will be my last entry on this thread unless you continue to add insults to which I will respond. As an engineer I am a NUMBERS kinda guy. You want to build an adapter and ignore a hundred years of actual, factual design....go for it. But, I will question your approach. If you, or anyone else, claims to have massive amounts of engineering data about a subject that I am familiar with, and have a desire to continue learning about, then be ready for me to ask you to share that data. If it actually exists, then why not share it? Very simple question .....

...and just how is asking for information that is 'apparently' on hand causing more work? Claiming to have documents but declining to offer them when asked only says that they do not really exist. I DID NOT question the possibility or ask for the details for any reason other than to expand my knowledge base. As for 'taking this to a PM', that works fine if I wanted to also hoard the supposed info but having a list on this forum helps EVERYONE reading, both now and in any future search. The two of you are the ones who often seem to be at the root of conflict, not me.

OK Tim, I'll bite....when you have time send me a list of the variations in the first 80 cams that you have documentations for as I'd like to be better informed and not just slimed by your Canadian brother for questioning what was offered.

I might question 80 different cam profiles for any one engine from a single manufacturer....I'm not thinking that even am sbc would have that.....8 might be more realistic but that is not the subject at hand. There are still plenty of the 25" units so it is good to see them being used.

The obvious questions are...... where is the crack? How wide is the crack? How long is the crack?

Has anyone asked Charlie about this?

Everyone seems to assume this is/was a pertronix ...? If so, I am not too surprised as I have heard of many failures and unless you carry their expensive parts then, like your friend, you can be stranded. In full disclosure, I am a huge fan of the Mopar electronic system. The ballast resistor is the weak link but it is cheap and easily replaced, and I have never heard of a failure while under way, only at starting. Also, if using the gm module then there are rarely any reported issues. It seems to me that pertronix is still doing the beta testing on the general public....

Try the Victor 'Rat Zapper'. I have a couple of them and they keep the little bastards under control. Rats, mice, chipmunks, anything that can crawl in gets hit with 7,000DC volts. The TomCat folks also have the 'tin-cat' trap and I have had as many a 5 mice in one trap at one time.

Terminology does vary greatly across these fruited plains...We call 'that' stuff skirting, and in engineer speak, underpinning would be drilled caissons filled with concrete and rebar used to support a structure.... .357 at 0230 hrs? Yeah, if someone/thing interrupted my sleep at that time it could happen...

...house underpinning? Are you sitting over a sink hole?

...since no one has jumped in on the chassis swap deal.......why on Gods green earth would you contemplate this? and onto a shiverlay frame no less? The pre-48 trucks are mighty narrow, and just about every following generation the width increased. I have had plenty of trucks along the way and even my 'old' 79-W150 seats 3 quite nicely.... my '47 barely has enough room for me...... The absolute best frame to use is the one already under it. It is highly unlikely that any late model frame will be easy to mount the cab and fenders on without a lot of fab work. The Dakota is maybe a decent place to start as there are some PH cabs on them. If you must have a newer IFS then a partial frame graft might work out. Again, look at the Dakota. And in full disclosure, the foregoing is strictly my humble opinion which is worth as much as you have paid for it......

If I may suggest, try to get your new title issued with the body serial number rather than the engine number. Although you may never need to change the block, whom ever follows you might and then they would be back in line at the dmv...

Agree, plugs don't care where the fire comes from, only how much.......here is a plug cross-reference site..... http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/