TodFitch

Got a picture of the hole and its location?

All Mopar L-6 engines from at least 1933 for Plymouth came with hardened exhaust valve inserts and special alloy exhaust valves from the factory, so as Young Ed noted no lead additive needed. (Even if the engine did not have those features you wouldn't have a problem with light duty anyway.) If the fuel system has not been gone over in the last 10 or 20 years then there may be some rubber components which are not happy with modern gas additives. If in doubt, replace the rubber flex line between the frame and the fuel pump, rebuild the fuel pump with a kit containing modern materials and if the needle valve in the carburetor has a rubber tip see about replacing it.

Works if the part can be tapped on with a hammer. . . But some parts I'd rather not do that too.

I find a hole punch set helps a lot on making bolt holes in gaskets. Harbor Freight has a cheap set that has, so far, worked well for me.

Yes. At least that is how mine are (were before I had the vapor deposited aluminum with glass coating). And from what I've seen and read that was standard practice. I think the early cars with carbide gas lights used a mirrored glass rather than stamped brass reflector but I've not looked at those closely and that is earlier than I am familiar with.

Impressive fabrication work.

I've taken the liberty of editing your thread title, partly so that it doesn't get reported as "should be in the ads". I assume by "10 over" you mean the crank is 0.010" undersized.

A number of those links point to the James Patterson regulator that fits inside the brush cover band of a third brush generator. I installed one of those on my '33 Plymouth 15 or 16 years ago and it hasn't had a problem at all, it has worked exactly as advertised. If you are running a early 30s or earlier car with internal 3rd brush regulation I highly recommend it. Sure seems like there ought to be someone making a decent electronic regulator for the later two brush 6v generators but I haven't noticed one. On the other hand, I haven't really looked either.

Southern most Orange County. Googling my location tag line should get you the town. We are still settling into the new (to us) house and I haven't yet had time to explore the back roads in the area but have looked at some maps and I see possibilities that should be investigated.

Little icon on the upper right of your web screen when you are on this web site. It looks like an open envelope and should change color and have a count number in it when you have new personal messages.

If they have softened enough to sag then it might affect the ride but if the car is sitting at the correct height then I doubt that new springs, manufactured to OEM specifications, would change the ride.

Just got done with going up to the SF Bay Area, getting my '33 PD out of storage and driving it to the new house. A distance of about 450 miles. We came down US101 but I wasn't keen on following the navigation app's suggested route of keeping on US101 ("the" Ventura Freeway to "the" Hollywood Freeway) to the four level in downtown LA so we cut off in Camarillo and took CA 1 (PCH) through Malibu then picked up I-10 to "the" San Diego Freeway (I-405). I am going to have to get used to "the" being prepended to all freeway names again. That is definitely a Southern California thing which is not done in the Bay Area. California freeways show the effects of deferred maintenance. (Less gas tax being collected than years ago due to cars getting higher MPG and on an inflation adjusted basis the funding is way down but any suggestion of remedying that is shouted down. In fact, we had a governor recalled largely because he let a temporary reduction of the vehicle taxes lapse.) I think the LA area freeways are in worse shape than in the Bay Area and even without obvious broken pavement or chuck holes, I-405 from Santa Monica to someplace south of LAX is horrible. Especially horrible in a car with a suspension designed 83 years ago. While that stretch around LAX is memorably bad, there are lots of other rough sections of pavement all over. So in addition to the LA traffic, a reason to avoid the freeways is the uncomfortable ride. One of my two issues on the drive down occurred after hitting a particularly bad bump: The engine lost power. Not electrical as I could pump the accelerator pedal and get a little power so some spark was occurring to ignite the gas provided by that. Took the next off ramp and the problem cleared itself before the end of the ramp. Nothing obviously wrong under the hood and the car ran fine for the remaining 40 miles home. I am guessing a bit of dirt it the carburetor got stirred up. I haven't done anything to that carb in nearly 30,000 miles and a lot of years. Probably time to take it off and clean it out. I figured out a way to not worry too much about the LA freeway traffic as I did not want to go much above 60 MPH: In California large trucks are limited to 55 MPH which in practice means most of them are moving along at between 60 and 65 MPH. Right at the upper end of my comfortable long distance cruising speed. So just tuck in behind one leaving enough braking distance and watch the miles pass by. There will be idiots who will dive through your safe following distance to get to exits so you can't be entirely asleep, but you won't be blamed for slowing down traffic. I didn't notice any abusive gestures aimed my way and I did notice lots of thumbs up, waves and smiles. So I guess this strategy works. Watching traffic, and particularly people's reactions to my car, can be interesting. Or frightening. Near Laguna Niguel I was in the #4 lane doing about 60 MPH when I notice a fellow in the #2 lane suddenly brake down to my speed pull out a cell phone and take a photo of my car. Not sure what the person behind him was saying after having to do some emergency braking to avoid tail ending the picture taker, but I expect it contained some language that is not suitable for this forum. Only other real issue on the drive down was that on a section of US101 with rough pavement near Camp Roberts my radiator cap/mascot decided that it could part company with my car. Given the aged pot metal construction and the way it bounced in pieces on the pavement it did not seem worth stopping and going back to get it. Time to look for some money to buy a reproduction.

According to the 1936-48 Plymouth parts manual for PT81: 3.73 Ratio uses: 1125140 - Differential and carrier assembly 1192393 - Drive gear and pinion matched set 671673 - Drive gear (41 teeth) 671674 - Drive pinion (11 teeth) 4.1 Ratio uses: 1121845 - Differential and carrier assembly 1192394 - Drive gear and pinion matched set 663445 - Drive gear (41 teeth) 663446 - Drive pinion (10 teeth) 4.3 Ratio uses: 864174 - Differential and carrier assembly 865690 - Drive gear and pinion matched set 663459 - Drive gear (43 teeth) 663460 - Drive pinion (10 teeth) 4.78 Ratio uses: 1141925 - Differential and carrier assembly 1192396 - Drive gear and pinion matched set 663647 - Drive gear (43 teeth) 663648 - Drive pinion (9 teeth) (I hope I transcribed all the correctly)

Thats pretty big. . . I know the 6.8 Northridge quake was very damaging and being a logarithmic scale, 7.1 is a lot bigger. I hope not too many people were hurt.

I can't believe this innocuous request led to the back and forth posts (and reports to the moderator). I've deleted many posts that were not related to the need for repairing/making/buying a heater duct and hope that the thread will now be able to get back on track.

Part number for the castellated nut on the '33 and '34 is the same as the number for the 1946-48 P15. I figure if it is the same nut it should get the same torque so I install mine with the 142 ft-lbs mentioned by Plymouthy Adams. 1934 is the first year they published a factory service manual. You should see if you can find one or find a reprint of one. Torque values for various things didn't start to get published until a bit later. The later the manual the more torque values you'll find. Early on they simply expected a good mechanic to have a feel for this type of thing, later on it seems they decided they should spec out more and more stuff. For what it is worth, the torque values I've found I have put at http://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

Don't have access to my took kit which is in my car about 450 miles from me, but the first time I took off the radiator I found a nice SnapOn open/box combination wrench wedged in the sheet metal. Weather and mechanical luck allowing, I should be driving the Plymouth the 450 miles to my new house early next week. Looks like it has been raining quite a bit up in The Valley of Heart's Delight while down here in the Spanish Village by the Sea it has been quite pleasant after the drenching the other week.

Might also want to consider using meetup.com as that site is specifically designed so that people of similar interests can get together for activities. This p15-d24 forum does a pretty good job of letting people keep in touch.

Names to faces would be nice. . . But the other thread actually started for an event in a different year and it would have been nice to have this year's get together in a separate thread anyway so I am not adverse to leaving this thread stand on its own.

My guess is that they will have a vacuum in them not exceeding 14.7 psi. Since that probably is not enough to cause any part of the tank(s) to collapse, I'd not expect any visible changes on the outside. If you open them thawed and add more water to take up the slightly expanded volume cause by the previous freeze and then seal and freeze them again they will probably bulge more. Eventually, with enough cycles of freeze/thaw with water added on each thaw, the tanks will fail.

Please use the PM (personal message) facility on this website for this type of communication.

Please post this type of request in the classified ad section rather than the general forum.

Please post this in the classified section rather than the forum.

'32 through '34 Plymouth had suicide front doors too. The drive side strike plate on my '33 two door was worn when I got it and I did fly open on me once when I was doing about 30 MPH and hit a bump. Your instinct is to grab the door and try to hold close it which won't work at any real speed as the wind catches it. You are much more likely to be pulled out of the car than to be able to close the door. Fortunately not too much damage was done to the door, hinges, rear fenders. And none to me. I built up the worn area on the brass strike plate with brazing rod and filed it to shape and the door has never come open accidentally since. I also always lock both doors before the car moves as I noticed the latch tongue on the door extends just a little farther when locked and I figure that will help assure the door is firmly latched.

There is a services offered area in the classifieds. . . . But since this is a one off with no charge I'll leave this thread here.