TodFitch

Diagrams are hard to read, I just go by the firing order. Set the distributor so the points just open at TDC using a static timing light (basically a bulb with a couple of test clips or use a volt-ohm meter). Note where the rotor is pointing, that will be #1 (should be about the 7 o'clock position if the oil pump and distributor were installed per factory but could be anywhere if not). Now attach the plug wires in counterclockwise order (the way the rotor turns), 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 (all the six cylinder inline engines I've dealt with have used the 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 order). Bonus points: If you think about how a four stroke engine works and realize that they wanted to have all the power strokes come at uniform times around the crankshaft rotation then you will deduce that there are only two possible timings for an inline six cylinder engine. I'll leave you to figure out what the other possible firing order is.

That was really close!

You are new here so you may not know the rule about posting parts buy/sell/trade items in the main forums. Please repost in the classified ads area on this web site.

I was surprised a couple of years ago to find that my old Plymouth had a lot worse problem with vapor lock when I filled the tank in Arizona. I was expecting to get "real" or at least "better" gas once I crossed the state line. But even though the temperatures were only in the 80s I had issues with long periods of hot idle or dying shortly after a hot start (aways cured by cooling down the fuel pump). In California I'd only experience that when the temperatures were close to or above 100. Asking around a bit, I came to the conclusion that California is about the only place in the US where the volatility of gasoline motor fuel is regulated. That is one of the things that makes the gas here a special blend with all the issues that brings on. But it also means that for a low pressure vented fuel system (i.e. old fashioned carburetor) the gas will boil at a higher temperature and thus resist vapor lock better. Almost all cars nowadays are fuel injected with relatively high pressure fuel systems so volatility is not a drivability issue with a modern car and unless they are required to, refiners don't worry about making the gas with lots of light ends that boil off at low temperatures. On my return to California on that trip, the car started behaving much better on the first tank of California gas.

Looks like something that could be duplicated by using the original to make a plaster of paris mold and casting some Flexane.

Ahh, "Manifold Destiny" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manifold_Destiny_(cookbook)

Just triggered one of my pet peeves. "oid" as a suffix means like but not really. An asteroid is something that appears to be a star but isn't. An android is something that appears to be human but isn't, etc. "Factoid" was coined by Norman Mailer to mean a "piece of information that becomes accepted as a fact even though it’s not actually true, or an invented fact believed to be true because it appears in print." He came up with it when writing a book about Marilyn Monroe because there so many "facts" about her that when checked out turned out to be false. I'd much prefer something like "factlet" (for little fact) or, better yet, trivia to the erroneous "factoid".

Color me confused. . . You know the stock bore, stock stroke and stock compression ratio. With those three numbers and a reasonable guess on the installed thickness of the head gasket you should be able to compute the stock cc in the head. Might not be totally accurate but it should be close. They didn't machine the combustion area in the heads (at least not on my older car) so there probably is some slight variation from engine to engine and on a one engine from one cylinder to the next anyway.

Don't know if they have them in the correct size for our old cars, but I've seen plastic alignment tools in my local auto supply. Might want to check there. If you have a spare transmission input shaft, you can use that. An old timer back in the '70s told me they used to use a broom handle whittled down to size. Or, worse comes to worse, leave all the pressure plate attaching bolts loose, make some long guide studs for the transmission top mounting bolt holes and slide the transmission on with it in gear. You can turn the hand brake brake drum to rotate the input shaft until the splines match up with the clutch disk and jiggle things until everything is aligned and the transmission slides all the way to the bell housing. Then tighten all the pressure plate mounting bolts.

Regarding refurbishing/rebuilding the clutch disk and pressure plate: I've had that done twice over the 40+ years I've had my car and each time I simply went to the nearest brake and friction place to where I lived at the time. That is a pretty standard job that any competent local rebuilder can do. Don will probably post the link to the one he used and which others on the forum have also apparently used with success, so that could be an option if you don't have or don't trust the rebuilder most local to you.

Found this on YouTube after reading this thread. Looks very useful for making gaskets.

ePay is probably your best bet. For what it is worth, those parts were also used in the '33 Plymouth transmission.

Depends on your climate/weather and if you let it idle until warmed up before driving. . . I find that on cool (not cold) mornings, especially when the humidity is up, a working heat riser helps on cold start drivability. YMMV.

Seems like this thread is going nowhere good. If you don't like the policy, contact GTK his info is at http://p15-d24.com/user/5682-p15-d24/ If you don't like how the moderators are interpreting and enforcing the policy, contact GTK. If you are annoyed with someone's post, sleep on it overnight before posting an (annoying) response. Better yet, ignore it. And, finally: I don't mention who reports posts that may be violating forum rules. Any guessing about who the reporter might be is just that, guessing.

It was deleted. . . There were several reports about it and I went to take a look and it was already deleted by the time I got to it. Not sure which other moderator did the deed.

You are new here, so I'm not going to simply delete this thread. . . One of the rules set by the site owner is that buying or selling items must be done through the classifieds area. They are free for members, so no worries there, go ahead and post an ad for what you want there.

Probably doesn't count as the car was only 45 years old back then, but when I moved from Baltimore to Los Angeles in '78 I drove my 33PD along with a small trailer to carry all my spare parts. Not a direct route to LA as I stopped in various places along the way (southern Wisconsin, east Texas, southern Arizona, northern Nevada, northern California, etc.) Also did a number of back and forth trips between LA and Tucson that year, a distance of about 500 miles each way. On the '78 transcontinental trip lost a u-joint due to a bad boot letting dirt in and lost a water pump. In more recent years: Drove from then home in SF Bay Area to Portland, Oregon (up via backroads, back via freeway) for the Plymouth Club meet a distance of about 1700 miles. No issues. Drove from the Bay Area to Tucson and back for the Plymouth Club meet a distance of about 2000 miles with the extra touring. Issues: Loose mounting bolt for front bumper and license plate holder. And just earlier this month 450 miles from the old house in the SF Bay Area to the new one about halfway between LA and San Diego. Issues: Lost the winged mermaid radiator cap on a rough section of road near Camp Roberts and had a momentary loss of power after hitting a bump in the LA metro area (fixed itself before I could stop and diagnose). With respect to "and those with modified flathead power cars, who have battled the Interstates and freeways along their path": Huh? Why would it have to be modified to battle the interstates and freeways? I prefer back roads. And there are some freeways I really try to avoid. But I will take freeways where it makes sense to me. For example on the move down to the new house, the large majority of the drive was on freeways. For these trips I usually toss in the mechanics tool kit that normally resides on the top of my roll around as using proper open end wrenches and ratchet sets is easier than the one Crescent wrench that lives in the tool wrap in the car. I also take along a cell phone and AAA cards, etc. I have taken to doing scheduled maintenance at regular intervals so am pretty confident the car is in good shape and so don't really worry about carrying spare parts. I check the tire pressure, oil level, water level, etc. before taking any drive more than a couple of miles.

That may be because you are thinking like a person, not like a Chrysler parts engineer. Front wheel bearing stuff is not in the front or rear axle groups in the parts book but rather in group 22, wheels. I think the part you are looking for is part group 22-06-18 "Front wheel hub dust seal assembly". For 1937 through 1948 that would be part 668479 which I think crosses to NAPA NOS 17145. See: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group22#22-06-18 And: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group22#668479

I was not aware that publicly traded companies like Google were now officially the government.

Good thinking! That is a bit cheaper than my solution of putting a 6+ to 12- inverter under the dash and having it power an accessory plug in which I insert a USB adaptor.

http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/eventpage/nc72592705#general_map In the Reedley/Sanger area you are considerably closer to the epicenter than anyone visiting Reno. Probably has something to do with "which way the gods spoke. LOL" More to the point, we have at least one forum member in the Bishop area very close to the epicenter. I hope he and his family did not suffer too much.

Serial number on front left (driver) side door hinge post will tell you what car you have. Look up the serial number with the tool on the upper right of my page at http://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin

Most studs are available in your local auto supply. And for those that are not available, I've been able to take a bolt with a long unthreaded portion and cut the head off and thread the shank as needed. Only issue would be if the stud breaks off in the block. In that case you'd need to remove the radiator to get a straight shot at it with a left handed drill and "easy out" (usually not easy in my experience).

Mounting holes are the same, so the newer style pump will bolt on. The inlet to the block is different but that can be dealt with by making a custom back plate for the newer style pump. So, if worse comes to worse, you can with a little work use a newer pump. Internals of the '33/'34 pump are the same as later so rebuild kits are easy to find, or send it off to get rebuild. I happen to have a spare that I keep rebuilt on the shelf. If/when the pump fails, I swap with the spare then get the failed one rebuilt to become the new spare. I've never taken the grill shell and radiator off to get the water pump off. With a bit of patience and skinned knuckles you can get the four bolts that hold the fan off and then remove the fan. The long stud by the generator will need to get unthreaded from the block, but other than that, there should be enough clearance with the fan off to slide the pump forward and off the short studs. At least that is true with my PD. On a PC or PCXX the clearance might be slightly different.

Could well be: Your current symptoms sound a lot like what I dealt with when I first got my '33. Without a thermostat it would belch water occasionally. WIth a thermostat the temperature at the back of the block where the sensor is would sky rocket until enough warm water got to the front to open the thermostat. When I pulled the water pump because there was a slight weep from the bearings, the impeller fell off in my hands. From the look of the wear pattern on the shaft I guessed that the problem had been there for a long time. Putting a new impeller and shaft in fixed that problem and also got the after market heater to start putting out heat. No water distribution tube until 1935. The '33 and '34 block is a bit narrower than the later ones. They widened the block to allow for the water distribution tube and the full length water jacket. Means the head gasket for '33 and '34 is different that '35 and up, all the other gaskets are the same (valve cover, oil pan, manifold, etc.) though.