TodFitch

I think the viscosity number standards for oil and gear lube are different so SAE70 oil would have a different viscosity that SAE70 gear lube. I've never heard of SAE 70 engine oil so I don't know where you would get it. I think I'd be calling a major oil company and asking for a applications engineer to talk with. They should be able to find out what a modern replacement for an old rated oil is.

So ggdad1951 ought to make sure his fire insurance is up to date?

I like that, especially since my garage is too low for a conventional lift and the low lift devices usually seem to have the mechanism in the middle which makes them not very good for drive line work.. Price seem reasonable too. . .

Quick look: The battery cut off switch I see at Harbor Freight has no current specification. The cut off switch I see on O'Reilly says 100 amps. The cut off switch I see on Napa Online says 300 amps (but looks identical to the O'Reilly one with a 100 amp rating). You may want to verify that whatever switch you get is rated for a couple hundred amps or more. . . A 100 amp switch on a 6v starting system would be undersized.

Many years of Mopar used a 7/8-14 plug, Dorman number 090-010 or NAPA BK7041933. Dorman also has an oversized version for pans that have been stripped, number 090-021 (all these are numbers from a few years ago you will want to recheck them). When I went to buy one for myself, I found the local store did not stock them and would only order me a box full for pretty big $$$ so I passed on the opportunity.

If it had that much wear then the ball may well not be spherical. As long as you have it loose, at least on one end, you might want to disassemble the thing and see what wear there is. Not sure about now, but not too many years ago the hardened cups, springs, etc. for the inside of that for my '33 were still available and probably were for your newer vehicle. If inspection shows too much internal wear you may want to look into that.

That through hole block sounds similar to the Bakelite bulkhead connector for the primary lead on my '33 Plymouth. My backup plan, if I ever need another, is to make a mold out of plaster of paris and then cast a new part using something like one of the harder varieties of Devcon Flexane.

Handle is a bit different, but the jack looks very much the same as the one that was in my '33 Plymouth when I got it. I don't have a way to verify it, but I think there is a chance my jack is original to the car.

Isn't 7 psi a bit high for a carburetor? Thought is was supposed to be something like 3 to 5 psi. That might be a cause of the problem.

If the shoes have been properly arced to the drums this is not possible. But if the shoes are arced for standard size and the drums are turned it could happen. Think about two circles of different diameters and how they will contact one another. If the shoe is shaped for a smaller diameter then it will touch at in the middle, if the shoe is shaped for a larger diameter than the drum then the heel and toe will be contacting. If the shoe is properly arced contact (or clearance) will be uniform over the whole length of the shoe.

If it is like the slotted plugs on the drag link on my '33 Plymouth, I used the large slot blade that came with my Craftsman hand impact driver that I bought decades ago when I was too poor to buy any real tool.

New parts identical to old, shoes arced to match drums, major and minor adjustments all the way in. . . The drums should go on. When you try to install the drums is there an area that seems to be holding them up more than the rest (Heel of shoes, toe of shoes, middle of shoes, etc.)?

After a bad experience where I forgot some parts in a bucket of chemical rust remover I gave up on that as too error prone for me. For years all I'd use was wire brushes and lots of time. I tried electrolytic rust removal when I had a rusted out 1933 air intake silencer and air cleaner to salvage. There was no way I could get into the inner nooks and crannies with wire brushes and I felt sand blasting would do more damage than good (thin metal, wire gauze to hold sand and later drop it into the engine, etc.). I was astounded by how clean and rust free the part came out of the electrolytic cleaning bucket. I use compressed air to blow the parts dry, lightly sand the areas that need it and then shoot some primer and paint on the parts. Ulu is right, if you are not careful they will re-rust quite quickly but that is true of any operation that cleans to bare metal. Just get them dry quickly and cover them with a rust preventative. For a mechanical part that would be oil, for others it is typically paint.

For sale items should be in classifieds.

Sales literature for '33 talked about special alloy exhaust valves. . . Did the cheap out in later years?

The radius the face of the shoe lining should be within a few thousandths of the radius of the drum. On an older car with hard to find drums like mine it means that each shoe needs to be shaped to fit the individual drum it will be installed in. Another fellow used the same technique I used to shape the linings but he took photos: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/213186-the-ressurection-of-daphne-a-1932-dl/?p=1396996

WIth new thicker linings you will probably have to bring the major (pivot point) eccentrics to the inner position. The shoe linings should must match the arc of the drums. Did the brake lining people arc them to the drums you provided?

Hmmm. Owner wants it built stock, builder is doing his own thing . . . Doesn't sound like a good situation to me.

Beer truck I think.

Is having a uniquely designed tire manufacturing plant turned into a shopping mall a loss or a save? http://www.seecalifornia.com/shopping/los-angeles-citadel-outlet.html

Some years are like that. . . This year I seem to be fixing my car more than driving it. Guess that makes up for a long string of years where I was driving it more than fixing it. Don't know much about OD transmissions but as others have noted unless some debris got into the planetary gears it seems unlikely you've damaged them.

I've grabbed the scan from the AACA site and placed it in the downloads area of the resources section: http://p15-d24.com/files/file/93-typical-1950-m-6-transmission-wiring-diagram/

File Name: Typical 1950 M-6 Transmission wiring diagram File Submitter: TodFitch File Submitted: 25 Aug 2015 File Category: Reference Information Per user Greg G: Grabbed this from the AACA forum. Good info for many Later Semi Automatics in Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge. Note mentions a good cleaning of the areas around the terminals to reveal there stamped Alpha lables. Click here to download this file

Other than by wishful thinking, what is the mechanism where by adding an oil to the gas is supposed to counteract ethanol?